My 9mm conversion fails to eject.

[badchad]

Hello:

I have a Glock 35 that I would like to use in both .40 and 9mm depending on the type of match I’m entering. I’ve searched and read all the threads I could find on this forum relating to the conversion and from what I understand a lot of people can get it to work with just the conversion barrel, but put the 9mm extractor in just in case. Well I received my conversion barrel from Lone Wolf last week and it would FTE about once per mag. Today I installed my new Glock extractor “GLO-1895” and also put in the “new style spring loaded bearing” “GLO-2714” since my 40 extractor was the older style that did not have the loaded chamber indicator. Now my gun FTEs about once every 2-3 mags. I’m shooting generation 4 Glock 17 magazines with Dawson plus 5 base pads, if that makes any difference.

Generally when it fails to eject, the case is pulled out of the chamber but gets pinched long ways between top of the barrel and the rear of the ejection port. Should I just accept less that 100% reliability and forget about competing with the conversion or is there something I’m missing that will fix this? Thanks.

[Yar1180]

Hello:

I have a Glock 35 that I would like to use in both .40 and 9mm depending on the type of match I’m entering. I’ve searched and read all the threads I could find on this forum relating to the conversion and from what I understand a lot of people can get it to work with just the conversion barrel, but put the 9mm extractor in just in case. Well I received my conversion barrel from Lone Wolf last week and it would FTE about once per mag. Today I installed my new Glock extractor “GLO-1895” and also put in the “new style spring loaded bearing” “GLO-2714” since my 40 extractor was the older style that did not have the loaded chamber indicator. Now my gun FTEs about once every 2-3 mags. I’m shooting generation 4 Glock 17 magazines with Dawson plus 5 base pads, if that makes any difference.

Generally when it fails to eject, the case is pulled out of the chamber but gets pinched long ways between top of the barrel and the rear of the ejection port. Should I just accept less that 100% reliability and forget about competing with the conversion or is there something I’m missing that will fix this? Thanks.

You also need the 9mm trigger housing as that actually has the ejector on it. The 40 ejector is strait and the 9mm one has a bend in it. Presonally I never felt the conversion barrels were competition reliable because the breach face is too large and the only thing holding the case was the extractor.

[atmar]

i think you also have to change the mag follower.

[vrmn1]

What spring are you using? What kind of ammo are you using?

I have to run a 15 pound or better yet 13 pound spring with mine. Especially if I run 147 subsonic ammo.

[Micah]

You also need the 9mm trigger housing as that actually has the ejector on it.

That there is your problem. Without a 9mm ejector, you will have failures to eject...get it?

It's a rather inexpensive little part.

[Joe D]

It is interesting how some have feed issues and others don't. I have two G35 9mm conversion barrels - LWD and Federal. They both have been flawless. I don't even change the ejector. The only thing I change is the mag.

[nphd2000]

I don't have conversion barrels but I shoot a G35 open gun that has a 9mm ejector and a G17 production gun that has a .40 ejector in it. (long story) I've never had a problem with cases ejecting. (knock on wood) Weird

[vrmn1]

It is interesting how some have feed issues and others don't. I have two G35 9mm conversion barrels - LWD and Federal. They both have been flawless. I don't even change the ejector. The only thing I change is the mag.

I have not had any problems with mine after I changed the spring. Now I just run the same spring with both the 40 and my 9mm barrel.

I don't change ejector or extractor, just drop in the barrel and grab the 9mm mags.

[buddy_fuentes]

I am sure these guys know what they are talking about, but I had to change my ejector on my Glock 24 when I put the 9 mm Long Wolf barrel in. The 9mm ejector works for the forty also.

My G-22 required nothing and you can switch back and fourth without a problem.

As a side note my forty mags shoot 9 mm without problems, too. Maybe I am lucky, I don't know.

Buddy

[nphd2000]

As a side note my forty mags shoot 9 mm without problems, too. Maybe I am lucky, I don't know.

Buddy

Mine too. You gotta love Glocks.

I am considering trying a metal gun in Lim 10 though. looking at the cost and my shooting ability I don't know if it's worth a try (Thread drift)

[vrmn1]

I am sure these guys know what they are talking about, but I had to change my ejector on my Glock 24 when I put the 9 mm Long Wolf barrel in. The 9mm ejector works for the forty also.

My G-22 required nothing and you can switch back and fourth without a problem.

As a side note my forty mags shoot 9 mm without problems, too. Maybe I am lucky, I don't know.

Buddy

I have some 10round 40 mags that worked with 9mm but my high caps wouldn't. Mine is a 24 as well.

My 9mm barrel is loaned out right now to someone trying with the idea of using it for steel challenge.

She was having a problem with something but I don't know what, I think springs. I will try to talk to her asap and find out what is going on.

I want to try it in a 35 I just picked up.

[badchad]

Thanks for all the info. I didn't see the ejector listed as a part, but I see it comes with the trigger housing, so I'll order that and see if that does it. I've been shooting Winchester White Box 115 grain 9mm loads and I'm already using Glock 17 mags. I'm using the stock glock 35 spring now, but maybe a lighter one would be better since the slide is heavier. I'll try that if the ejector doesn't do it.

[Joe D]

I run a 12# Wolf in my G34/35.

[Charlie Vanek]

The ejectors are interchangeable and will pull out with pliers. The plastic trigger housing is the same on the 9mm and 40 cal. it's only the ejector that's different.

[akuleboat]

I can guarantee that it is the ejector. I bought a Glockmeister trigger kit for my 34. Turns out he gave me a .40 cal trigger kit. I had extraction problems off and on until I realized that I had the wrong ejector. It would do the same thing. The case would get pinched it the slide from the wrong ejector. It wouldnt happen every round but always seemed to surface during rapid fire or during a match.

[Sunuva]

The ejectors are interchangeable and will pull out with pliers. The plastic trigger housing is the same on the 9mm and 40 cal. it's only the ejector that's different.

Good tip!! did not know that.

[bountyhunter]

Hello:

I have a Glock 35 that I would like to use in both .40 and 9mm depending on the type of match I’m entering. I’ve searched and read all the threads I could find on this forum relating to the conversion and from what I understand a lot of people can get it to work with just the conversion barrel, but put the 9mm extractor in just in case. Well I received my conversion barrel from Lone Wolf last week and it would FTE about once per mag. Today I installed my new Glock extractor “GLO-1895” and also put in the “new style spring loaded bearing” “GLO-2714” since my 40 extractor was the older style that did not have the loaded chamber indicator. Now my gun FTEs about once every 2-3 mags. I’m shooting generation 4 Glock 17 magazines with Dawson plus 5 base pads, if that makes any difference.

You also need the 9mm trigger housing as that actually has the ejector on it. The 40 ejector is strait and the 9mm one has a bend in it. Presonally I never felt the conversion barrels were competition reliable because the breach face is too large and the only thing holding the case was the extractor.

Don't know about Lone Wolf barrels. If extraction is iffy, are you shooting reloads? High quality barrels can choke on 9mm relaods because the brass is a bit wide just ahead of the rim.

My Firedragon 9mm conversion barrel worked no problem in my G35 with either extractor, never changed the ejector.

"Presonally I never felt the conversion barrels were competition reliable because the breach face is too large and the only thing holding the case was the extractor."

True, but a pivoting spring loaded extractor will move the rim far enough to pin it against the breech face and still give good extraction (at least on all my coversions). The only one which will FTE once in a while is the Springfield XD which has a fixed extractor so it has NO TENSION at all extracting 9mm with a conversion barrel.... and it still extracts OK about 99% of the time.

Edited August 7, 2007 by bountyhunter

[badchad]

Ok so here is what I did. First I got a 9mm ejector to go along with the extractor I already had. That seemed to help and got my jams down to about 1 per 100 rounds. Rather than the empty case being caught between the top of the barrel and the slide, they started getting caught on the lower edge of the barrel as if they were not getting pulled out all the way or they were dropping out the bottom of the breach face. The only recommendation I hadn’t tried was for a lighter recoil spring, so I stopped by Glockmiester today. He thought the spring wouldn’t make any difference since a Glock 34 uses the same 17 pound spring that the 35 does. I figured since the Glock 35 slide is 2 ounces heavier and the 9mm round is less powerful, and didn’t want to have driven 35 minutes across town for nothing, I bought a 13 lb spring, and a 15 lb spring anyway. While I was there I also got a non-captured tungsten recoil rod to decrease muzzle flip. I installed the 13 lb spring.

I put about 300 rounds through the gun tonight and all seemed well. It was accurate and I didn’t have any failures of any kind. As such I’ll try it at the USPSA practice match tomorrow and see how it works out. So far it looks good so thanks for all the advice.

PS. Is there a trick for getting the non-captured recoil rod in place? It took me several minutes my first time trying. Also what happens to a gun when the recoil spring is too light? Thanks again.

[BR]

PS. Is there a trick for getting the non-captured recoil rod in place? It took me several minutes my first time trying. Also what happens to a gun when the recoil spring is too light? Thanks again.

The first time you install any spring, light or not, on an uncaptured rod is a b#@+<&. Once you shoot it a few times, and it has a chance to compress under the pressure of recoil, it goes on a lot easier. Whether the recoil spring on a glock is too light should be determined in two ways. (a) Is the gun 100% reliably feeding and ejecting the ammo you use. If so, then ( does the recoil spring have enough energy to counter the striker spring/trigger return spring combo. You can ascertain this by pointing the weapon vertically and holding the trigger back in the firing position; at the same time pull the slide all the way back and slowly release it forward, but stop before it returns to full battery and let go of the slide. If the recoil spring locks the pistol into battery, then you're good to go. If it remains slightly unlocked, go to the 15 pound spring [and/or use a reduced power striker spring or other spring combo]. Then again, I just might be drunk. Cheers,

-br

Edited August 16, 2007 by joker22

[Yar1180]

Ok so here is what I did. First I got a 9mm ejector to go along with the extractor I already had. That seemed to help and got my jams down to about 1 per 100 rounds. Rather than the empty case being caught between the top of the barrel and the slide, they started getting caught on the lower edge of the barrel as if they were not getting pulled out all the way or they were dropping out the bottom of the breach face. The only recommendation I hadn’t tried was for a lighter recoil spring, so I stopped by Glockmiester today. He thought the spring wouldn’t make any difference since a Glock 34 uses the same 17 pound spring that the 35 does. I figured since the Glock 35 slide is 2 ounces heavier and the 9mm round is less powerful, and didn’t want to have driven 35 minutes across town for nothing, I bought a 13 lb spring, and a 15 lb spring anyway. While I was there I also got a non-captured tungsten recoil rod to decrease muzzle flip. I installed the 13 lb spring.

I put about 300 rounds through the gun tonight and all seemed well. It was accurate and I didn’t have any failures of any kind. As such I’ll try it at the USPSA practice match tomorrow and see how it works out. So far it looks good so thanks for all the advice.

PS. Is there a trick for getting the non-captured recoil rod in place? It took me several minutes my first time trying. Also what happens to a gun when the recoil spring is too light? Thanks again.

The 13# spring is the ideal choice for 9mm. The factory likes to overspring their guns, and if your running lighter striker springs you want to soften your recoil spring anyway.

As far as getting that spring on an uncaptured rod, a lot of it is just practice. Really try to keep the spring strait to keep it from binding as you put it on. Once you do it a few times it becomes easy. The extended guide rod that CGR sells for the 34/35 is a big help as it is longer.

[badchad]

New update.

The conversion still sucks. After what seemed like a successful test run, the pistol proceeded to either fail to eject in competition. Last night after a good cleaning it jammed evey 2-3 mags or so with either a fail to eject or the case pinched between the top of the barrel and the slide just like before. At this point, unless someone has a grand idea, I think I have tried everything and will give up and just shoot .40 through the gun all the time. I'll have to agree with Yar1180 that 9mm conversion barrels are not competition reliable. At least mine sure isn't.

[HK Dan]

I have several thousand rounds through my G35 with a Storm Lake barrel. I had the same malfunction, replaced the ejector and extractor, and had the same problem. I was already running a 13# spring.

On a lark, I upped the charge to 'full tilt' and it's been perfect ever since. My first 300 rounds out of it were single shots, and the next 5,000 have been flawless. Before you quit, try upping the powder charge to 'listed max'.

HK Dan

[Jasonfeat]

Having a similar issue. I have a g23 gen 3. I have replaced the barrel, trigger housing, and the extractor. The last round fails to eject every time. It doesn’t jam, it just sits on top of the empty mag until I tip it out. Any thoughts?

[tswisher21]

My Lone Wolf conversion barrel works fine without changing anything but mags.I guess I got lucky too.

[Paul49]

A Lone Wolf also works fine in my G35.3 with the addition of G17 magazines, such that it has been used in competition without hiccups.

 

A Glockstore Double Diamond also works in my G22.2, but has not been tested as thoroughly.

 

The only problem was Fiocchi 9mm wouldn't feed properly creating a jam-o-matic. The cartridge was stuck outside and behind the chamber with the slide only halfway forward, so the round wouldn't drop through an empty magazine well. The slide wouldn't move either backwards or forward and the cartridge rattled slightly when the gun was shaken. Took several minutes of yanking on the slide and banging on the indoor range lane tray to correct the jam.

 

It first happened to my wife, so I suggested she was limp wristing. She didn't think so. Not realizing yet that it was the ammo, I then shot the next magazine of Winchester without a problem. Handed the gun back to her. She put the Fiocchi magazine back in and it jammed within two or three shots. She'd been holding the Fiocchi containing magazine in her hand while I was addressing the jam. Unjamming it was the same struggle. Getting a little frustrated, once the jam was resolved, I put the Fiocchi magazine back in and then it happened to me. Uh oh! There was a whole serving of egg on my face. After the necessary contrition and apologies, I gave the rest of the Fiocchi to my son who shot it uneventfully through his Sig P228.