chp5 Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I really enjoy shooting my old M37. Two things I'd like to change: 1. Trigger - when dry firing, I always get a blood blister on my trigger finger. I think it's caused by pinching it between the back of the trigger and the frame. A trigger stop would solve it. Anything I can do? 2. Trigger Pull - My DA trigger pull is very smooth, but heavy. I have all stock springs etc. It's a SD piece, so I don't want to get anywhere near light strikes. I know that Wolf makes some reduced hammer springs. What's reliable and recommended by the revo experts? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I don't think I would change springs on a carry gun. You can polish the inside and the hammer etc and it will help. I tend to leave my carry guns stock so in the event I have to use it and end up in court it is box stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwx40x40 Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 As for the blister on your trigger finger. Check the top of the trigger. It is usually squared off at the top. I contoured and polished mine smooth and it helped with the blistering issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I never liked serrated triggers, so my J-frames always had triggers that were ground and polished nice and smooth. Maybe that would help with the finger. With all the monkeying around I like to do with revolver springs on competition guns, I keep them pretty much full power on a gun that might ever be used for defensive purposes. My M-38 has its original unaltered factory springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 (edited) Springs can be lightened. You can easily go one step down from Factory weight with the Wolffe springs. Also change the rebound spring to a 14# and it will also help. All of this after making sure all parts are properly stoned smooth. The pinching blister can most likely be solved with a better fitting pair of stocks. BUT. If you want to take the serrated trigger out, I will swap you a smooth one but my smooth trigger is MIM which really makes no difference. I do not have a lot of feeling in my finger tips any more so serrated triggers are a necessary thing for me. Edited May 4, 2007 by Round_Gun_Shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 Thanks for the replies. RGS - I've already been grinding on my serrated trigger, so you don't want it. BTW - We have Corgi too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revchuck Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Cy - I had a M37 once, and tried the Wolff reduced power hammer spring. It went "click" at least once per cylinderful. I reinstalled the factory spring, but went with a reduced power trigger return spring, and it worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Cy, Rusty Kidd did a nice job on a 649 for me at one point - its set up for carry for my wife. Very smooth action, but still left firm enough to be assured of a good safe trigger pull under stress. Anyhow, something to think about - and he's local to you.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Cy, My cheap fix for a trigger stop works pretty good. Just put a squirt of clear silicone sealant (the kind that dries, not the kind that stays pliable) behind the trigger. Lightly oil the trigger guard before starting so the silicone doesn't stick or your first try will be a practice one. With the grips off the gun, run a piece of wire around the trigger guard and through the trigger. Tighten the wire sloooowly until the hammer drops. Back of ever so slightly and leave for a day or two. Once dry take a flat razor blade or exacto knife and trim off any excess. Your new hillbilly trigger stop will last for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted May 5, 2007 Author Share Posted May 5, 2007 Thanks for the replies! Jim - do you have any pics of your innovative trigger stop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 Cy, Here are a couple of crude pictures of my 'Sili-Stop'. Hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted May 6, 2007 Author Share Posted May 6, 2007 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 "Super Glue" and the eraser from a "Number Two" pencil will do the same thing...OLD "PPC" shooter's trick...HTH....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted May 9, 2007 Author Share Posted May 9, 2007 BTW - will excessive dry fire hurt an Airweight J Frame? Are snap caps recommended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 BTW - will excessive dry fire hurt an Airweight J Frame? Are snap caps recommended? Nah, you'll be fine--just ask Dan, he finally destroyed a Smith revolver by dry-firing but it took over 14 million clicks to do it. Seriously, though.....I don't think it's a good idea to put any kind of "frangible" trigger stop on a carry or defensive gun, whether silicone, eraser, whatever. I don't think the increase in shootability outweighs even the tiniest possibility of the trigger stop binding up the gun when you need it most. Or so it seems to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 Seriously, though.....I don't think it's a good idea to put any kind of "frangible" trigger stop on a carry or defensive gun, whether silicone, eraser, whatever. I don't think the increase in shootability outweighs even the tiniest possibility of the trigger stop binding up the gun when you need it most. Or so it seems to me. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 In fifteen years of carrying a J frame, shooting it for Quals, and putting numerous other people through Quals with their J frames no one has needed, or had a use for a trigger stop. For what it is intended for I wouldnt worry about the trigger stop, even though they are accurate at 25yds should you be stupid enough to shoot it enough to find out.... ...like I did...... My .02 cents..... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted May 9, 2007 Author Share Posted May 9, 2007 I beveled the sharp edges on the face and rear of the trigger. It helped a lot and I don't seem to get a blister on my trigger finger anymore. Thanks for the suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Cy, Even I agree with Mike. I guess I missed the fact that this is a carry gun. Sorry for not catching that point. I play with guns all day every day (Ask my wife) and I when it comes to a duty or carry piece I dislike anything other than full go factory. I'm sure that Mike could expand on the liablility aspect in volumes, both from a departmental and a personal standpoint. You might use the a stop for a practice piece, but I will take a boo-boo on the finger over a ouchie someplace else. "It's better to bleed in practice...." I also agree with Doug. When I drove around at night for days on end, my department gave us these for backups. We had to qualify with them if we wanted to carry them. Many qualified expert with the 2 inch barrel. And don't feel lonely getting pinched like that. My pistol team from work has 5 members. For many years not every one of us has the same pinched mark on our trigger finger by the end of the season, shooting K frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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