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Bobbed Hammer


mooster1223

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I guess the post says it all. I think I would rather buy one already done than buy a new smith hammer and potentially screw it up myself.

Thanks,

Jim

In my humble opinion, it's easier (technically) to bob the hammer in your gun than it is to fit a new hammer (from Randy or elsewhere).

Having said that, I like my Randy hammer pull more than my bobbed S&W hammer pull.

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If you order the bobbed hammer from Randy you can get it completely setup with the sear, sear spring, etc and all the pins. It will just drop in and work. I got mine without the pins and sear and just took those off my old hammer. Saved a little money.

I do like the way Randy's works compared to the dremelized ones I've done in the past.

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Brownells sells both models of hammer for about 55.00

I am going to buy one in case I screw up the one in my gun. I hope to have it done for the IRC or maybe the ICORE match after the sunflower classic

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You on the other

hand are an artist with that tool.

Why thank you! Aerosigns has a very nice touch also (although he needs to tone down the high-buff treatment so the sun doesn't glint in his eyes so much...)

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Scooter,

Have thought about going a bit more aggressive on the cylinder chamfering?

Check this out: post-2776-1177682540.jpg

Food for thought.

;)

I like it! I don't have any chamfering right now and am wanting to do my cylinder.

Are there any problems associated with this amount of chamfer?

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=821348

If the link works and you can see Midways PTG Revolver Deburring tool, Is that the tool I will need or could use easily? Another tool more suited?

It comes in two sizes, 3/8 and 1/2 inch, 1/2" for the 625 right?

Thanks for your time folks,

41mag

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Be real careful. That tool won't give you the wide chamfer you see in the apex pix, it will only go so far (1/2") and then just widens the chamber mouth deeper. Use it to take the edge off and a bit more. Then use a Dremel and a polishing compound and bring it to a bright shine.

The pix you see was probably done with a milling machine, allows a cutter to be angled into the chamber so it doesn't go too deep into the cylinder.

Another thought is if you get too much chamfer on the Star, you may end up creating a sharp ledge that can grab the rounds.

I saw a PC627 that had factory chamfer and it looked like a scallop from the outside in, with very little chamfer between holes. Saw another pix of a Randy Lee job that looked like that too.

Edited by pskys2
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Be careful chamfering the chambers on the newer revolvers that use the shape of the extractor (rather than locator pins) to lock the extractor into place when the gun is being shot. Keep in mind the hand is pushing on the ratchet to push the index the cylinder around, if the fit gets sloppy the cylinder won't carry up correctly. This is the reason for the "scallop from the outside in" technique used by Randy and others.

You can put plenty of chamfer on a 625, and it's a good idea, but be careful you don't compromise the timing (carry up) in the process.

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I don't know I'd venture to do a chamfering job myself. Maybe I'll use the 5-shot cylinder I took off my 25-2.

Back to bobbed hammers. This one was bobbed initially by the S&W PC, then Randy touched it up a little. Because it's a hammer nose it can't go much lighter without eating into the notch where the nose is.

post-2776-1177804571.jpg

post-2776-1177804596.jpg

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Be careful chamfering the chambers on the newer revolvers that use the shape of the extractor (rather than locator pins) to lock the extractor into place when the gun is being shot. Keep in mind the hand is pushing on the ratchet to push the index the cylinder around, if the fit gets sloppy the cylinder won't carry up correctly. This is the reason for the "scallop from the outside in" technique used by Randy and others.

You can put plenty of chamfer on a 625, and it's a good idea, but be careful you don't compromise the timing (carry up) in the process.

I believe it is the flat side of the extractor shaft that keeps it centered. Theoretically, you can cut the legs off the extractor star and it will still keep time. That was the purpose of the design change away from the pins.

But, I have been wrong before ;)

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