1911jerry Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I am using a SW625-6 for revo and have become as addicted as you can get. I have a problem with the cylinder release function during reloads. I am reloading weak handed and use my right thumb to push on the cylinder release button while craddling the bottom of the frame, and using my fingers to push the cylinder out for reloading. I find that the cylinder is a little difficult to snap open with little pressure. Would a larger cylinder release button aid in allowing me to use my right hand to push the cylinder out? Or does the revo need a little work and keep using my left hand underneath the frame to push out the cylinder? Thanks Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooney Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I only occasionally reload left handed (I'm a serious clutz). I use a Pinnacle Custom o/s cylinder release (which is about the size of a barn door) which is easily hit by your thumb, and you can use your right index finger to pop the cylinder open. I had to file down the radiused corner (lower left when viewed form behind) a bit because it was cutting me a little- now it's perfect, and I love it. Others have used the CCW and Ed Brown (I believe) latches with much success as well. If you do a search, this topic of which people prefer has been covered well in this forum. Glad you came to the enlightened side! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I've been using the Ed Brown for years and find it works quite well. You can order them from Dillons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Make sure you are actually getting the ejector rod assembly released. Check that the Rod Assembly is tight it turns CCW to tighten. Check that the nose piece of the Bolt is sticking thru at least flush with the hole in the frame. Check that there are no burrs hanging anything up also. If the Bolt nose isn't going thru far enough, take off the Thumb Release and try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 In addition to what psky2 suggests (make sure the ejector rod isn't bent) also consider removing 2-4 coils on the cylinder release latch spring. It will take some pressure off the cylinder which makes opening it up easier and also allows the cylinder to rotate more freely with less drag. As far as latches go I prefer the stock one. I swithched over to a weak hand reload technique last year but have used the strong hand style for a few years prior to that. The stock button is about the perfect size. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Jerry, Along with the info previously posted you might want to check to see if your release button is getting "pin " all the way forward in the rebound shield. Open your cylinder and remove the release button. Now try to put the button back on with out moving the pin backwards. I have had to take some material off the fornt of many a new release button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 In addition to what psky2 suggests (make sure the ejector rod isn't bent) also consider removing 2-4 coils on the cylinder release latch spring. It will take some pressure off the cylinder which makes opening it up easier and also allows the cylinder to rotate more freely with less drag. Actually, you can leave that spring and plunger out completely if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Jerry, Along with the info previously posted you might want to check to see if your release button is getting "pin " all the way forward in the rebound shield. Open your cylinder and remove the release button. Now try to put the button back on with out moving the pin backwards. I have had to take some material off the fornt of many a new release button. And thank you Bubber of reminding me of that at last year's IRC :_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sinko Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 I use the SDM version on my 625. It is the same shape as the newer S&W design, though I believe it sticks out just a bit more and the checkering is much sharper. And it's made of real steel too! I have seen the Pinnacle version and I believe it's probably the best choice for a game gun. Mark told me he designed it that way to eliminate the binding that some shooters were experiencing with the more angular Ed Brown latch. Then again, some shooters will simply weld a discarded, cut off hammer spur to an existing latch. But I think the hammer has to be made of real steel before you can do that. See how nice it is to have parts that are made of real steel? Dave Sinko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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