eringobragh Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Hey gang, Can the Miculek brake be used and timed up with a CRUSH WASHER instead of the lock nut that comes with it? A pic or two would be great if anyone has indeed done this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PacMan Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Hey gang,Can the Miculek brake be used and timed up with a CRUSH WASHER instead of the lock nut that comes with it? A pic or two would be great if anyone has indeed done this! Don't think so, the brake bottomed out without the locknut (at least on my barrel anyway). You can make it look really nice by timing the lock nut to fit without gap, but that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 You can use a crush washer if the threads are long enough and it times right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCK Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I dont know where to get them at but my JP comp came with a PEEL washer. You peel a .001 piece from the washer and screw the comp back on. You keep doing this until you get it clocked and then locktite it on there. The peel washer is made of compressed shims that make it apear as if its a solid washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Brownells has peel washers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PacMan Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Tried peel washers with mine but it was not a 'neat' solution. Timed mine with a flat file and plenty of patient Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Here IS a Miculek Brake installed without the locknut and with a peel washer. I drilled out the dirt accumulating "non working" baffle to make this work. I used my lathe but if you are careful and accurate this could be accomplished with a drill press and a tap. Good luck Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastshooter03 Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Basically you have to drill out the remaining material to the first port and then tap it. My procedure is to set it up in a v-block in a vise, indicate the OD to find center, Drill 1/64" under, ream to .461", then tap to the first port. I also add a couple of vertical holes in the front two ports later on. Fastshooter03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 I dont know where to get them at but my JP comp came with a PEEL washer. Interesting. My old (10+ y.o.) JP brake came with a lock nut. I have since removed it and used a peel washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gator Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I have seen fastshooter03 modified Miculek comp, I think the extra holes on top will make it more efficient. Kind of like the Bennie Cooley comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 (edited) I had Randall at ar15barrels.com cut my 20" to 18". He also indexed my brake. Edited February 18, 2007 by Derek45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaG Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Derek45 Is that a Weaver V Series 1x3 on your rifle? If so, how do you like it? DaG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 (edited) Derek45Is that a Weaver V Series 1x3 on your rifle? If so, how do you like it? DaG Yes....Good eye ! I like it very much. Edited February 20, 2007 by Derek45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jin Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Here IS a Miculek Brake installed without the locknut and with a peel washer. I drilled out the dirt accumulating "non working" baffle to make this work. I used my lathe but if you are careful and accurate this could be accomplished with a drill press and a tap. Good luck Patrick When i get my brake in i am thinking about asking the gunsmith to drill/tap through the "non working" baffle. Can anyone see any downsides to this modification? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstroyed Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) POF uses a threaded collar jam nut that is nice. not sure if is their part or whos. It tightens down and the collar covers extra threads that are usually visible. Here is a pic from their website. Not suggesting this comp just the collar. It is hard to tell in this pic but it looks like the collar is backwards from the way it shouild install. Edited January 13, 2011 by dstroyed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstroyed Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) delete double post Edited January 13, 2011 by dstroyed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Snyder Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) I continued the minor diameter hole required to tap 1/2x28 through the rear baffle, leaving only the first two 'wipers' then used a tap to thread....on my 16inch barrel this "seems" to moderate the blast, and along with a Enidine buffer does not come off target with a 4x32 at 500y clay birds....if you can't find a peel washer and are an old drag racer, try some different thickness solid copper spark plug washers or spark plug crush washer if necessary... with 28threads per inch, approximately .036 inch needs to be faced off comp for a complete rotation of the comp... .009 inch for 1/4 turn.. .003inch for each cardinal clock position.... if you plan on clocking Edited January 13, 2011 by Les Snyder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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