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Slide, Barrel, Frame Fit


stockton

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Scott,

Harmon just did his first one and it turned out rather well. Give him a shout or a PM and he can prob point you to what you don't already know. You already have the skills, so it shouldn't be hard for you to finish the job.

Worst case, give me a call and I'll give you Harmon's phone # or what not.

-Mike

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I am in the middle of my first build and the links below should help get you started. I have my slide and frame fitted and Kart EZ Fit Barrel about 90%. I was the same way about wanting to do it and do not regret starting the project. I will proably not build another for the following reasons:

1. Quality parts run in the negihborhood of $1000 to $1200 (Caspian, Brown, Wilson or McCormick etc). For $700 or so, I can buy a forged Colt or Kimber with these parts already assembled and mod it how I want . Plus $100 to $200 depending on finish.

2. Tools will be a minimun of $300 to $400. (files, stones, punches, vice and a dozen other things that will be needed if you don't already have.

3. I wanted to know what made up a 1911, but for me the fun is in the shooting and I would rather be at the range than a bench.

Hope this helps and just go for it.

Rik

http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...p;t=1&i=505

http://smartflix.com/index.php?main_page=p....1911forum.com/

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i read everything i could before i started, then read again, and again...as i went.

I built a limited STI much like stocktons SV in about 2 weeks and to this date its had 1 malfunction in 2000 rounds and that was due to a bulged piece of Sellier and Bellot brass.

everything from 125 PF minor loads to 180 PF old school major limited loads from 1.130 - 1.200 without a hiccup.

Kart Barrel shoots like a Raped Ape too! you talking about building a comp gun top end, right scotty?

Harmon

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I haven't seen one yet, but STI sells a short block. Frame, slide and barrel + comp fitted at the factory. May be good for the builder without the heavy equipment or time to do the precise fitting.

Probably short chambered so it can be built into 9x19, 9x21, 9x23, 38 Super or Supercomp.

Pricewise doesn't look like much savings versus an STI factory gun unless you already have the reamers, internal parts and scope + mount sitting on your shooting bench.

Bill

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Cost wise, looks good to build my own...

Stock Number Description Price Quantity Favorite Total Status

005-100-000 1911 AUTO C-MORE COMP MOUNT $59.00 $59.00 In Stock

087-041-306 #1306 9MM/38S/10mm EXTENDED EJECTOR $18.36 $18.36 In Stock

087-145-893 893 BROWN WIDE AMBI SAFETY, STAINLESS $43.46 $43.46 In Stock

087-815-101 810HCS 1911 HARDCORE SLIDE STOP, S/S $28.76 $28.76 In Stock

087-868-000 868 SERIES 70 S/S BT GRIP SAFETY $27.96 $27.96 In Stock

466-001-009 EXE 009 9X19,21,23,38 SUPER COMP EXTR $61.95 $61.95 In Stock

654-108-125 #2315 2-PC REV 5" GOV'T GUIDE ROD $37.12 $37.12 In Stock

791-000-031 STI PIN SET $13.29 $13.29 In Stock

791-000-052 5.1 BBL W/TRUBOR COMP S-2 CUTS 9X19-38 $262.50 $262.50 In Stock

791-104-038 FPSS-38 38 SUP. SS 1911 FIRING PIN $6.25 $6.25 In Stock

791-105-100 STI 1911 TITANIUM HAMMER STRUT $11.63 $11.63 In Stock

791-112-001 STI 2011 STD FIRING PIN STOP $9.58 $9.58 In Stock

791-201-038 38 SUPER 2011 SLIDE $161.25 $161.25 In Stock

791-250-100 STI STANDARD RAMPED 2011 FRAME $343.77 $343.77 In Stock

823-102-106 IMCH 1911 AUTO SQUARE HAMMER $56.47 $56.47 In Stock

823-103-106 SVI 1911 AUTO EDM SEAR $29.19 $29.19 In Stock

823-106-001 LONG FLAT SILVER TRIGGER INSERT $14.57 $14.57 In Stock

823-110-000 INFINITY/STI SILVER TRI-GLIDE TRIG. SY $79.87 $79.87 In Stock

969-000-125 COLT PLUNGER TUBE SPRING PK 3 $5.00 $5.00 In Stock

Total Amount : $1,269.98

Then, I still need a C-more and mag button. Would also get Tripp to hard chrome. So all that would bring total to around $1,700, I figure. That's about $1,000 less than a Trubore!

Harmon, three questions...

  • What manuals/ books did you read
  • Could I borrow them?
  • I have never seen a "raped ape." Do you have pics or a video? :lol:

Benny, I have a DRE-mill, does that work? :blink: Seriously, though, how much of a necessity is a mill?

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all my resources have been online..

you might try buying the Jerry K. 1911 shop manuals...lots of good information there

scot, your gonna want to lighten the slide, and to fit the trubore barrel, youll need to shorten the slide some and then cut the top back 1 degree so when the gun unlocks, you dont have interference with the comp and the slide.

You could do this very carefully with a file, but a mill would be best.

a mill would also speed the process of fitting the slide to the frame.

if you want to flat top, cut the swoop of the back of the slide and or install a slide racker, your gonna want a mill for that.

hope this helps scotty

good luck

Harmon

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791-000-052 5.1 BBL W/TRUBOR COMP S-2 CUTS 9X19-38 $262.50 $262.50 In Stock

Don't forget the cost of tools. The chamber reamer will run $55. Also the Brownell's catalog indicates the barrel with Trubor comp has "Extra material at the muzzle to allow precise fitting." I'm not sure what this means since the barrel and comp are a one piece unit, but you might want to find out before ordering to avoid problems.

Sounds like a good project.

Bill

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you have to shorten the slide to get them to fit.. this needs to be done anyway since you have to cut it to 89 degrees to keep the comp from hitting the slide when it unlocks.

If i remember correctly, you need an 89 degree cut, and .001" clearance to get it to work... someone correct me if im wrong.

harmon

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If i remember correctly, you need an 89 degree cut, and .001" clearance to get it to work...

More like .010"

The mill is invaluable. Bridge cut on the frame, slide/frame fit, all the lightening on the slide, comp fit, I wouldn't even try to build a gun without a mill. But if you want to try. Go for it! B)

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... I wouldn't even try to build a gun without a mill...

Sweet! I can justify a mill finally! Wife's gonna love that.

So that begs the question. . . anyone know where I can get a decent will for a reasonable price? And, what is a reasonable price?

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Make sure you have a good mill,measure everything at least 3 times, common sense & logic used & go slow, you will do fine.

+3 to what Benny said.

I measure, draw, measure, anaylize, measure, build it in my head 10 or 12 times, and measure again before I ever grind the first spark or cut the first chip.

Kenny

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... I wouldn't even try to build a gun without a mill...

Sweet! I can justify a mill finally! Wife's gonna love that.

So that begs the question. . . anyone know where I can get a decent will for a reasonable price? And, what is a reasonable price?

I have purchased a ton of stuff from these guys http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/

They also have tooling. It is the old fisher body plant.

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I got my mill from Grizzly. Like a lot mill suppliers, a lot of their stuff is made overseas. However, Grizzly checks everything out when it comes in. Additionally, they have a lot of replacement parts available and their customer service is pretty good (at least from my experience).

Click here for a Link to Grizzly

Darren

So that begs the question. . . anyone know where I can get a decent will for a reasonable price? And, what is a reasonable price?
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You cannot build a open gun right w/o an accurate mill with D.R.O. systems, lots of time & luck. I must have thrown away 2 five gallon buckets of junk parts when me & virgil tripp started building guns in 93. You will have about $2500 in parts in your first gun but it is a learning experence.

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