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C-more Serendipity On Para - Question


Spaceghost

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I have a Para high cap that I want to turn into a 9mm major gun. I'm planning on putting a C-more Serendipity on it but was concerned because the dust cover is so thin compared to the STI.

The C-More is a lot lighter than the old tasco & mounts we used to use.. is the thickness of the dust cover going to be a problem? I don't really have the funds to build up an STI bottom end.

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The dustcover of the Para will hold up just fine.

As long as you do not repeatedly remove the C-more from the frame.

As another option you could have your gunsmith silver-colder/weld a piece to the outside of the dustcover to thicken that area and then get a C-more for a S_I dustcover dimension.

Alan

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What Alan said. :D I covered the same subject with my gunsmith when I was building a gun and he advised against any sort of one sided mount. He did suggest that he could solder on a plate to mount the scope as Alan suggested. He did say that a 2-sided mount may be ok but probably not the best idea. I wound up with a slide-mounted Docter.

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I don't think you'd have any problems with it. I've run this setup for about six years. myopenpara0px.th.jpg

The mount is made out of delrin and absorbs most of the shock. Pretty much like the c-more would. This mount however, has cracked but not at the mounting holes. It cracked at the area where it squeezes on the front of the tube.

If I were to switch to a c-more I wouldn't worry about the dust cover at all.

Gary

I have a Para high cap that I want to turn into a 9mm major gun. I'm planning on putting a C-more Serendipity on it but was concerned because the dust cover is so thin compared to the STI.

The C-More is a lot lighter than the old tasco & mounts we used to use.. is the thickness of the dust cover going to be a problem? I don't really have the funds to build up an STI bottom end.

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Another option for the Para frame is the Hiett Tech (formerly Red Buff) mount available from EGW. This mount attaches to the frame above the left grip and replaces the plunger tube. They are available with a weaver mount or 30 mm scope ring type mount. It made out of aluminum and seems very strong/rigid. Very little if any scope movement.

I've had mine for over 10 years without problems. With the 30mm ring type mount, it keeps a Tasco PDP3 very close to the slide. No ejection problems so far. The only negative is that I cannot attach a slide racker to the gun.

Bill

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Flatland,

Any chance you could post a picture of your gun with the Hiett mounted.

I just found out my Serendipity is on backorder..

Now I'm thinking of a slideride on a mount. Of course, the Hiett is $100 which is a chunk of change

I want something that will be low to the slide.

Thanks!

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Flatland,

Any chance you could post a picture of your gun with the Hiett mounted.

I just found out my Serendipity is on backorder..

Now I'm thinking of a slideride on a mount. Of course, the Hiett is $100 which is a chunk of change

I want something that will be low to the slide.

Thanks!

I'm sorry but just not technically savy enough to post pictures here. Tried and failed. PM me your e-mail address and I can send you a pic that way.

Bill

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Flatland,

Any chance you could post a picture of your gun with the Hiett mounted.

I just found out my Serendipity is on backorder..

Now I'm thinking of a slideride on a mount. Of course, the Hiett is $100 which is a chunk of change

I want something that will be low to the slide.

Thanks!

Decided to give posting pics one more try. I'm using a different computer than the last time I messed this up.

Bill

All right. Even us techno-weenies can have a good day! Couple of notes: #1 - The angled slots were milled in after purchase. The stock mount is black aluminum without the holes. #2 - All the little dings are from many years of use, does not come from the factory with those.

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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Flatland,

Thank you! I appreciate your getting the photos taken and up so quick.

So I take it you have to cut the left side thumb safety to clear the mount and either ditch the grips or shorten the the left panel to clear the mount.

I can't believe your gun is such a safe queen.. are you sure the mount can hold up to real use?? :P

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Flatland,

Thank you! I appreciate your getting the photos taken and up so quick.

So I take it you have to cut the left side thumb safety to clear the mount and either ditch the grips or shorten the the left panel to clear the mount.

I can't believe your gun is such a safe queen.. are you sure the mount can hold up to real use?? :P

On the thumb safety, I trimmed less than 1/16" from the inside of the lever with a flat file to fit. The grip panels need to be shorten across the top for the scope mount and also on the bottom for the S&A magwell. I just recently switched to the skateboard tape.

This gun was built about 12 years ago replacing another Para that had a scope mount on the dust cover. The frame on the earlier gun never did crack, but I was concerned with it.

On the Red Buff mount (that's who originally made this mount back in the 90's) I've never had a problem with its strength or it causing problems with the Para frame. In fact, on weak hand draws I grab the top of the red dot with my strong hand freeing up the entire grip for the weak hand to grab.

The only negative, I have yet to find a slide racker that will work. I guess I need to give George with EGW a call and see if he has any ideas.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Bill

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My Para was built in 1996 as a 38 Super when the PF was 175. A little over a year ago, I had it rebarreled so I could shoot Major 9. The same C-More Serendipity has been on it since '96 and hasn't caused any problems. I have a backup C-More just in case the old one dies some day. The Serendipity is so light weight, there really isn't much to cause stress on the dust cover. You could beef up the frame as suggested but I don't think it's necessary. I wouldn't worry about it.

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The Serendipity is so light weight, there really isn't much to cause stress on the dust cover.

Thats a good point. My ProPoint + mount weighs quite a bit more than a C-More with a Serendipity mount. My earlier Para had a ProPoint with a dust cover mount (5 holes on each side) and even though I was concerned with it cracking, it still was not cracked when I retired the gun. It probably had over 100,000 rounds through it in its lifetime,all 180 PF.

If you are trying to keep the dot as close to the bore as possible, I think the Serendipity might be the way to go. Its looks like it will run lower than a C-More with a Red Buff mount.

Bill

Couldn't you just hang one off the right side?

I tried mounting a slide racker to where the handle stuck out on the right side, but it just didn't work for me. If I was a southpaw it would be great. But a right hander like me had to reach over the top to get to the racker. And if I tried to tilt the gun over onto its left side to make the reach easier, it caused jams. I didn't give it a whole lot of time and went back to grabbing the serrations on the front of the slide.

Bill

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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Ok.. perhaps this is just crazy talk.. (related to the bloody mary's I was drinking and the late hour) but what about putting a short racker further up, in front of the ejection port. True, I've never seen anyone do it.. and I suppose you might run into a problem somewhere with a barricade or port but its an idea. You could have it feed into the front sight dovetail.

There, I'm done thinking outside of the box...

Edited by Spaceghost
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Ok.. perhaps this is just crazy talk.. (related to the bloody mary's I was drinking and the late hour) but what about putting a short racker further up, in front of the ejection port. True, I've never seen anyone do it.. and I suppose you might run into a problem somewhere with a barricade or port but its an idea. You could have it feed into the front sight dovetail.

There, I'm done thinking outside of the box...

Yeah, and use a tungsten one for added recoil control.... :lol::lol:

Seriously, I could see times that something sticking out in the front could hang up on ports etc. It's possible there may be some interference with the holster although most holsters nowdays are so minimalist, there isn't much to hang up on.

Another might be the racker off the front dovetail would be rubbing or stabbing the shooter in the thigh, depending on how the holster is worn.

And I don't know that I would want to be putting my weak hand that close to the muzzle during a malfunction clearing. You could accidently sweep your hand and get DQed.

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I hear-ya Spd522..

I wouldn't think you would need a very pronounced protrusion, say 5/8 of an inch. Just something to catch your finger so you don't have to get a friction hold on both sides of the slide.

As far as sweeping, it wouldn't be worse than trying to rack the slide using the front cocking serrations.

I would suggest bringing the racker back further toward the ejection port but 1. you need a certain distance to accomodate the travel in the slide and 2. the metal just ahead of the barrel hood probably isn't thick enough to dovetail.

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I hear-ya Spd522..

I wouldn't think you would need a very pronounced protrusion, say 5/8 of an inch. Just something to catch your finger so you don't have to get a friction hold on both sides of the slide.

As far as sweeping, it wouldn't be worse than trying to rack the slide using the front cocking serrations.

I would suggest bringing the racker back further toward the ejection port but 1. you need a certain distance to accomodate the travel in the slide and 2. the metal just ahead of the barrel hood probably isn't thick enough to dovetail.

I measured where I could cut the dovetail on the front of the slide and still get sufficient rear movement of the slide to cycle without hitting the scope mount. The result is the cut would be where a typical front sight dovetail cut would be or just slightly farther back.

A slide racke at this spot, with the slide in battery, requires my hand be up near the compensator ports. A little too close for comfort.

Bill

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Thats a good point. My ProPoint + mount weighs quite a bit more than a C-More with a Serendipity mount. My earlier Para had a ProPoint with a dust cover mount (5 holes on each side) and even though I was concerned with it cracking, it still was not cracked when I retired the gun. It probably had over 100,000 rounds through it in its lifetime,all 180 PF.

That's a good deal. I just replaced my Para frame. It had a 1-sided mount and pro-point. I had cracks on both sides of the dust cover.

Switched to an STI frame and Serendipity. Is good.

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How about cutting the last slot out of the mount? Is the mount rigid enough? Then you could mount a dovetail mount racker?

To clear the dovetail slot I would need to trim it into the second notch. That doesn't leave a whole lot of material to hold that back scope ring.

Bill

Switched to an STI frame and Serendipity. Is good.

An STI or SVI will probably be my next blaster. I've hesitated because I really like an all steel frame.

Now that's a thought. We have a company making an all metal version of a Glock frame. Has anyone thought of making a metal replacement grip for a S_I frame?

Bill

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[

That's a good deal. I just replaced my Para frame. It had a 1-sided mount and pro-point. I had cracks on both sides of the dust cover.

Switched to an STI frame and Serendipity. Is good.

I could see where the one sided mount would be much more susceptable to cracking the frame, especially with the weight of a ProPoint rocking on top.

The Serendipity weighs about the same or less than just the metal mounts made by others. It is probably the best way to go for dotting a Para.

Were I just starting from scratch, I would probably build on an STI, just because of the custom parts and extended mags available. I do like the all metal frame and the feel of the Para much better though.

Craig

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