Reloading .223 on 1050, Is It Worth It?

[IVC]

My reloading background is in pistol, on 1050, reloading several calibers (38SC, .40, 9), shooting USPSA and some local 2-gun outlaw matches that include AR-15. 

 

There is a lot of information on the reloading process for the rifle cartridges and load data, that's not the problem. My question is PRACTICAL, based on my setup and what I need (at this time). The short version of the question: Is it worth setting up reloading on a 1050 for .223 plinking ammo? The long version follows. 

 

I have access to a lot of .223 brass because at the two ranges that I frequent most people don't reload it. It's shiny and once-fired. I also have a 1050, so I already have a swager on station 3. Changing calibers, tuning primer system, calibrating, QC, setting up MBF and alike are routine tasks that I've spent enough time fine-tuning (especially various aspects of the MBF). I already have multiple toolheads, including one I use for preprocessing brass (to minimize shake when loading 9 major and cases are pretty full). I even have a stash of SRP primers from the time it was the only game in town, thinking I might use it in Open major instead of SPP. 

 

The questions I have are about mixed headstamp brass, trimming, case inspection and headspacing. All the "goodies" I don't worry about when reloading for pistol. 

 

First mixed headstamp. For plinking ammo, how much do I care about small variations in headspace that remain after processing? This is probably the biggest unknown since sorting out brass is something I hate with passion and could be a non-starter. 

 

Next is trimming and case inspection. I would get the Dillon trimmer so that I can trim while I preprocess the brass. Do I need to worry about the mixed headstamp brass in terms of OAL? Rifle cases headspace on shoulders so my guess is that trimming is just to keep the brass in spec, but it's otherwise not a big deal. Correct? So, I would clean the brass, lube (just basic lube such as spraying One Shot works, right?), preprocess, clean again to remove shavings and lube, then it's ready to load? And at some point I'm supposed to look inside *each* case for cracks so I don't end up with separated cases in a match? This also seems to be quite time consuming - for pistols, I clean the brass and sort and inspect in one relatively quick step, looking for cracks, kinks in the rim and dings anywhere on the case. Is it much more time consuming for rifle brass? 

 

Finally, headspacing and bullet jump to the rifling. I understand the process for precision guys who will reload for the particular chamber and load ladders in .001" increments to figure out which headspace works best in their rifle, but I'm talking here semi-auto combat rifle plinking ammo on a progressive press. The ammo should work in any of my ARs, much like factory ammo does. If I stick to the spec and do plunk test on my ARs, am I good to go with just using an "OAL in the middle that works?"

 

 

 

[warpspeed]

yes, it is worth it.

 

I actually prep 223 brass with a dedicated tool head and trim it off press using a Giraurd Trimmer. DO NOT USE ONE SHOT. Use Dillon or another lanolin based spray. Clean, trim, clean again, prime, inspect and it's ready for final load. Yes. I prime as a separate step.

 

I have no idea what headstamp I'm using when loading for 55gr FMJ-BT bullets. They are all sized and trimmed the same.  The internal case volume will vary but for those , I'm not worried. 69 SMKs are a different story.

 

I tend to load the 55gr stuff on the shorter end. I don't recall off the top of my head but it's whatever Hornady calls for less 0.010".   Then in a chamber checker gauge and into the ammo can.

 

 

 

Edited August 12, 2023 by warpspeed

[DesertTortoise]

Headstamp- no need to sort by headstamp for plinking ammo. 

 

Lube- one shot works great and you don't need to remove it. Seems like it's a love / hate response to one shot. 

 

-inspection - I've never heard of looking inside a rifle case for cracks so I've never done that. Inspect just like a pistol case.

 

Headspace- resize to saami spec. No benefit to minimaly resizing (shoulder bump) in plinking ammo. Shoulder bumping is only for brass that is going back into the same rifle it was fired already from. 

 

Overall length- for multiple rifles I'd just load to recommended book length. If you do go longer check the cartridges in all chambers as you described

 

Crimp- no need to crimp rifle rounds. If you chose to crimp (which is said to prevent bullet setback in semi autos) use a very light crimp ideally on a seperate die, not the seating die

[IVC]

I like the answers - thanks - especially about not having to sort the brass and inspecting cases the same way as for pistol. 

 

For crimp, I assume it's the same as for 38 Super Comp. Light taper crimp, just enough to prevent bullets from shifting under recoil. It's mostly neck tension, though. The way I adjust it for pistol is to measure the diameter of the final round, but this is approximate because cases have different brass thicknesses. Yet it's more than "good enough."

 

Is it the same for rifle? Set crimp such that it holds the bullet and doesn't imprint on the bullet, try a few different brass types, call it "good?" The variation in the brass is there no matter what and the die can be set to a single value anyways, so it will only be as consistent as the brass thickness, which is "somewhat"... 

[Boomstick303]

On 8/12/2023 at 2:08 PM, IVC said:

For crimp, I assume it's the same as for 38 Super Comp. Light taper crimp, just enough to prevent bullets from shifting under recoil. It's mostly neck tension, though. The way I adjust it for pistol is to measure the diameter of the final round, but this is approximate because cases have different brass thicknesses. Yet it's more than "good enough."

 

IF you intend to use a bullet feeder you will most likely need to expand the top of the neck with an expanding die.  Maybe others have had better luck without expanding, but I found the bullets topple over too easy if I do not expand when using a bullet feeder.  Some hand feed bullets and do not use expanding dies nor do they crimp.  They have adjusted neck tension properly so they do not need to crimp.  If you expand you will need to crimp.  I use a Micrometer crimping die and put a very slight crimp. I use Hornady 55 gr bullets, and I think most on the forum would agree that being one of the better if not best 55 gr bullets around.  I can go out to 400 yds with plinking ammo traveling around 2780 fps consistent enough for competition stuff.

 

As far as neck tension, do your homework on finding a good die for this.  I would find a die that does both resize and create good neck tension at the same time.  Some people chase neck sizing down a rabbit hole, but most accomplished reloaders will tell you that it's useless and a huge waster of time. 

 

Shoulder bump and case OAL will be your most important measurements.  I use the Forster resizing die as it had some of the best reviews in regards to neck tension and sizing.  

 

Erik Cortina is a PRS shooter that has a YouTube channel, and does an excellent video on setting up shoulder bump.

 

Something to consider is roll sizing.  I initially was not roll sizing, and was having issues with some ammo no case gaging at a higher rate than I preferred.  If your barrels have tight chambers I would check your reloads work before loading up a bunch. Some will claim that a full size sizing die is all you need, but I have seen some have issue when just using a full sizing die and their barrel had a tight chamber.  Most likely has some to do with the full size resizing die they use to reload.  

 

 

Edited August 14, 2023 by Boomstick303

[m700]

100% worth it.

Im on a 5000 round load now on my 1100. I run 2 toolheads. I do 0 sorting of headstamps. I will look for major defects when sorting it from other brass, loading it into bag for lube, watch it as it comes out of the case prep tool head, inspect after wet tumble, inspect after dryer, Inspect as it goes into case feeder second time, and as it comes off press the second time. each one of those inspections is quick(not thorough) I will also see them again as they get put in magazines. This will find most problem cases. I dont count loadings. I have about 20 gallons of 223 brass so it shouldnt be an issue. 

I check my ammo every 200 rounds or so for powder weight and gauge it. Once the press is set and dies locked the only thing that may move is powder setting and my powder measures have held pretty well.

 

No clean

Prep head is decap die, Full length size in the swage station, dillon trim in station 7

Wet Clean

load head is neck expander in station 2, bullet feeder in station 7, seating dies 7, factory crimp 8.

[IVC]

3 hours ago, m700 said:

100% worth it.

Awesome! This is exactly what I was looking for - thank you. Both the confirmation that I don't have to fiddle with it "precision style" (sorting headstamps, messing with the chamber-specific loads, counting firings, etc.), and how the press is set up in practice for efficient, high volume plinking ammo output. 

[m700]

I loaded for precision with it for a long time but then I ran out of bullets and decided to try something cheeper, xtreme, and decided from there that im not looking for 1/4" groups. Im looking to blow 200 rds with 1" groups.

 

25 grains of H335 under a 55 gr. I started with this making 50 for testing. Second time out I made a ladder box and went   right back to 25 grains.

[dtuns]

3 minutes ago, m700 said:

I loaded for precision with it for a long time but then I ran out of bullets and decided to try something cheeper, xtreme, and decided from there that im not looking for 1/4" groups. Im looking to blow 200 rds with 1" groups.

 

25 grains of H335 under a 55 gr. I started with this making 50 for testing. Second time out I made a ladder box and went   right back to 25 grains.

I'm getting just under an inch with this load and the hornady bulk 55 boat tail with canalure.

[m700]

5 minutes ago, dtuns said:

I'm getting just under an inch with this load and the hornady bulk 55 boat tail with canalure.

I didnt believe in a magic load but this one seems to work for a lot of people

[IVC]

On 8/12/2023 at 4:14 PM, Boomstick303 said:

Something to consider is roll sizing.  I initially was not roll sizing, and was having issues with some ammo no case gaging at a higher rate than I preferred.  If your barrels have tight chambers I would check your reloads work before loading up a bunch. Some will claim that a full size sizing die is all you need, but I have seen some have issue when just using a full sizing die and their barrel had a tight chamber.  Most likely has some to do with the full size resizing die they use to reload.

This will actually be easy in my case because I have a roll sizer. Just need to get the conversion disk and I'm good to go. I'm also (frustratingly) familiar with the higher-than-expected rejection rate of brass that fails the gauge around the case rim, which is why I bought the roll sizer years ago (directly from Australia, at the time). 

[IVC]

On 8/14/2023 at 11:07 AM, m700 said:

25 grains of H335 under a 55 gr. I started with this making 50 for testing. Second time out I made a ladder box and went   right back to 25 grains.

Just a quick question about the powder, since I don't have any rifle powders at this time and would like to get one and stick to it. 

 

How's H335 vs. CFE223? It's the same manufacturer and CFE223 is a bit slower and a bit cleaner. A grain extra per load, from what I've seen. Any other considerations between the two? I can get either at this time. 

[IVC]

On 8/14/2023 at 6:50 AM, m700 said:

Prep head is decap die, Full length size in the swage station, dillon trim in station 7

Another question about the trimmer, assuming you're running the RT1500 - can it run *without* the Dillon sizing die underneath? Dillon sells the die for $200+ and it's backordered. If I size using any other die of choice, can I use the trimmer as-is, i.e., just make it trim to length without sizing and without any extra parts? 

[Boomstick303]

Just now, IVC said:

I'm also (frustratingly) familiar with the higher-than-expected rejection rate of brass that fails the gauge around the case rim,

 

To be honest the .226/5.56 barrels I am using seem to have a pretty forgiving chambers, and probably would have fired every one of those rounds that failed the gage, but my OCD could not live with it.  Also why risk it.  Yes loading 223 is worth it, but why take chances and create possibly bad ammo.

 

One thing you might note when you buy that roll sizer conversion kit, is the 223 cases like to tip over and run through the disk at an angle.  I am trying to create a sheet metal spring the makes sure the brass stays upright when processing the 223 brass.  Otherwise you have to stand there and baby sit the brass to make sure it goes through the disk completely upright.  

 

[Boomstick303]

1 minute ago, IVC said:

Another question about the trimmer, assuming you're running the RT1500 - can it run *without* the Dillon sizing die underneath?

 

The sizing die is what the RT1500 mounts to.  I am not sure of a way around that to my knowledge.  They are sold separately.  

 

I see CFE-223 everywhere so it should not be hard to find.  I use Accurate 2200 with really good results especially for plinking loads and you kind find that really easy as well.  

 

[m700]

19 hours ago, IVC said:

Just a quick question about the powder, since I don't have any rifle powders at this time and would like to get one and stick to it. 

 

How's H335 vs. CFE223? It's the same manufacturer and CFE223 is a bit slower and a bit cleaner. A grain extra per load, from what I've seen. Any other considerations between the two? I can get either at this time. 

There are plenty of good powders out there each has its pros and cons. My buddy loads on cfe223 with no issues. I just put my load out as an easy starting point if you had access to that combo of components.

 

You need the die. Dillon has it available in steel. Which I believe should be perfectly fine as the brass is already sized and you should be lubed anyway. Its also less than 1/2 the price of the carbide one they have backordered. I believe dillon has issues with carbide suppliers. Or rather the carbide suppliers have issue supplying.

[m700]

Mighty Armory also has one

https://www.mightyarmory.com/products/trim-die-223-556

[SnipTheDog]

I think the CFE-223 is a little dirtier than the H335.  The H335 is a bit smaller load ( CFE-223:26-26.8, H335:23-25.3 @55gr) CFE-223 is slightly faster.  Both work well though.  Both are ball powders and will flow well with the 1050.

 

I also use BLC-2 for .223 with good results.