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Disconnector “tuning” for a 2011


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I’ve had a couple 2011 trigger jobs done and I’ve noticed that the nub that the slide makes contact with is noticeably shorter. 
 

Can anyone point me in the right direction of a company that already has that trimmed? I’m sure I’m not using the right terminology. I can tell the slide really has a hard stop until the disconnector is depressed on the ones that arnt trimmed down. 

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Been awhile but there is an exact spec those things are supposed to be, as long as it isnt causeing problems, other than polishing it and the track area it rides on the slide, best to leave it alone. That is the part that keeps your gun from going full auto.  Most MFG's will make it a little longer than spec. No idea what gun you have but Filipino frames gan be all over the place in specs so any parts need more hand fitting.
If I was feeling the need to replace one Id go with the wilson combat bullet proof. Should drop in most non Rock island/Armscore frames

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You don't shorten the disconnector unless it's out of spec.  Like most other moving parts, it helps to polish the contact surfaces, both on the disconnector, and on the frame.  This includes the hole in the frame where the disconnector protrudes, and the bottom of the slide where it rides.  If the slide is hanging up, check for proper assembly and proper spear spring engagement where it contacts the bottom of the disconnector at the trigger stirrup.  It also helps to bevel the leading edge of the disconnector rail on the slide, if that's not done already.

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Compare the front of your disconnector rail on the tuned-vs-not guns.  Some gunsmiths put a slight bevel there to make the disconnector action better-- that part is also important for feeding to so be careful if you try to copy it

 

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Don't shorten it.  A Marvel cut on the disco rail helps reduce the feel of it when cycling the gun.  Another trick is to file a filet/bevel on the top inside of the center searspring leaf and polish it.  This prevents the hard contact or catching of the edge of the spring on the back bevel of the disco and allows slicker movement there.

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Sometimes you so have to shorten the disco slightly, and address the leading edge.  I have to do that on every EGW disco I install.  Their ball head discos are made for fitting.  You have to polish the ball head and take a slight amount off the top while you are profiling the bevel.  Works like a charm after that.

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