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What Barrel Blank Would You Recommend In 6.5?


cottyw

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I think any of the major producers would be just fine. That said, I'm very tickled w/ the 30" Broughton 5C standard Palma taper in .308 that I put on my 40X LR rifle. I would not hesitate to order another in any caliber. From the sounds of it, 1k BR and F-class in 6.5mm is where they've been kickin' butts and takin' trophies. Krieger has more of a mind-lock on conventional High Power... good stuff, no doubt, but I get irritable when people start telling me that Krieger is the absolute best, bar none, get nothing else... and it turns out that's all they've used. Brand loyalty is fine, blind fanaticism is silly.

I think the factory Remington Varmint Special barrel is about a 5.5 contour from most makers, if that helps out any.

HTH,

Monte

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What barrel blank would you recommend in 6.5?

Please include contour, twist and length.

Will

Will,

As far as contour, twist and length - it depends what kinda shooting you plan to do and at what distances.

For prone shooting with only a sling I prefer a lighter contoured barrel that is not too muzzle heavy. If supported (bag, rest, bi-pod, bench) a longer heavy barrel works.

I asume you'll be only using a scope - so a longer sight radius is not an issue.

The barrel twist rate will depend on the bullet weight you plan to use - Long range (600-1000yds) heavier bullet - short range lighter bullet ..

I have a TUBB rifle http://www.mcbrosrifles.com/tubb_2000.htm in 6.5-308 (260 Rem) and 6.5-284.

The 6.5-308 is has Schneider barrel, 1/8 twist and shoots 142gr Sierra JHBT extremely well at 600yds (under a 1/2MOA if I do my part).

I don't have much data on the 6.5-284 as I got that barrel for shooting at 1,000yds and have not had a chance to shoot much as IPSC has taken over my life....

As far as Barrel makers - Mike Rock http://www.rockcreekbarrels.com/ makes one of the best Barrels I have ever shot.

George Gardner has built two rifles for me (.223 and .308) they are both on 700 actions and both with Mike's barrels - and both are 1/3 moa guns - It's a lot of fun shooting these F-Class at 600 yds.

You might want to check out George's web site http://www.gaprecision.net to get some inspiration or call him for advice - he's a heck of a nice guy and very knowledgeable..

Good Luck.

Paul

Edited by pmd
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I would assume that since this is the MOR section that you would want this rifle for MOR events. On my Rem 700 MOR rifle I use a Hart, 26", Sendero (5.5 taper), 1-8 twist, for my 260 Remington. It is about the rightweight & length for MOR matches and shoots exceptionaly well ( I have shot a couple of groups under 2" @ 600 yards with it and a pile under 1" @ 300 yards ). I shoot the 140 Hornady Amax and have shot the 142 gr SMK and moth are great perfomers.

Shawn Carlock

gunsmith@defensiveedge.net

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  • 2 weeks later...

I second the comment on GA Precision. Awesome work. I had George build me that exact caliber - a 260 AI - almost a year ago now, it is exceptionally accurate (less than 1/4 MOA all day long, at any range). Schneider bbl, #7, fluted, 8 twist, R700 action, AICS stocked. 142smk's at about 2900.

Edited by Bret Heidkamp
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I shoot a 6.5/284 with a 27" Shilen 3 groove Stainless match in # 7 contour. This is on a Rem 700 action and a HS Precision benchrest stock. Also has a Jewell trigger at about 12oz which is the sweetest trigger I have ever felt. Best 5 shot group at 100 yards is .114". Sure there are many fine barrel makers but this is the only one I have ever had the shoots this good every time.

Lee

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Guys,

Great information so far…thanks. I will take a trip down to GA Precision. Talk to me about .260 vs. .260AI with regards to fire forming brass. Is it a big deal or not very involved. Is the payoff in velocity worth the effort?

Will

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CottyW,

I would counsel against it. The 6.5's already have a relatively shorter barrel life compared to the 308's. Some long-range precision shooters are seeing accuracy starting to degrade from throat erosion around 1000-1200 rounds. While I don't think losing 1/4 MOA is going to kill us in MOR, it will start to happen. Lets say we double that number and even it out to 2500 rounds before we have to replace the barrel. In the course of this barrel lifetime, if you choose the 260AI, you're looking at fire-forming at least 500 rounds. This translates into losing 20% of you're barrels life expectancy to fire-forming for about 100-200 fps gain. I would just stay with the standard 260. You can neck up Lapua 243 brass and not have to fire-form it to use it and it's just about the best brass on the market.

Erik

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I would counsel FOR it. Here is the logic:

A) Fireforming brass is terribly simple for an AI. You can use these rounds to shoot close range targets, sight in, plink, whatever. I disagree on the 500 rounds comment. Most matches are less than that. I have only about 100 or so - that's plenty. Realize you do not have to waste these rounds. I shoot fireforming loads at 400+ yards. Get your drop chart for them, and they are fine practice rounds.

One other thing most people don't know: When you fireform an AI cartridge, the length gets shorter, thus no trimming. They also don't stretch like a factory cartridge, probably due to the shoulder angle... again, very little trimming, if ever. :-)

B) The AI gain is about 200fps, depending on powder. This puts you at least up to 2900. Damn close to the 6.5x284 without the pressure and barrel life issues. (The 260AI is definitely easier on bbls than the 284) That is a big difference at long range. Check out the differences in windage, which for me is the most important, and one of the biggest reasons I don't care for 308 that much. Now if F-class would just allow other calibers in tactical...

C) Barrel life is not a killer with the AI version of this cartridge. A 6.5 AI is easier on a barrel due to the flame angle that AI's create, in my opinion, than a straight 260, but this is a better question for George Gardner. The flame angle I'm referring to is the bounce angle off the inside of the shoulder (the direction the burning gases would go, if this makes sense). Note how on the AI it still hits brass, but on most factory cartridges it hits the throat of the barrel. This was explained to me by an engineer... I'm not one.

D) Have you ever heard of Terry Cross?

E) You should read this month's Precision shooting, there is a fine article on the 260 tactical.

F) You should read the articles Terry has written on the 260 AI. They are over at www.6mmbr.com. While you are there, look at the articles archive. Here is the link to the 260AI article: http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek046.html

G) As if that isn't enough, your goal should be to wear out barrels, not save them for your offspring. A barrel is cheap compared to my time, effort, and the learning that happens with each pull of the trigger. If you want to be a better rifle shooter, you have to wear out barrels. You might as well wear them out with something you like. Remember, you can have a new barrel fitted and you'll already have brass, dies, etc. for the AI.

If you want cheap warm-up practice, scope your 10/22 and warm up at 100 or 150+ yards with it. It's fun practice on windage before breaking out the big guns.

H) If you are building a custom gun, you might as well go for it.

I) In the amount of 6.5 I've put down range through my 260AI, often shooting next to someone shooting a 308, it is SO much better in the wind... you won't believe it until you own it.

J) If you don't do it, you'll always wonder...

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Will,

Glad it helped! I can sum up my logic:

Barrels are an expense, just like ammo. That's a fact of shooting. I can't count how many pistol barrels I've changed due to either wear or not liking something.

To me the equipment is the cheapest part - our time is way more valuable and our travel expenses are way higher. Get what you want and don't worry about it. Look at what the winners in your sport are using and start there. There is a reason they're using it.

If something doesn't fit, modify it! That means your pistol's grips should fit your hand. Your rifle stock should be the right LOP for you. etc etc...

Don't worry about looks, don't worry about resale value (for our sport!), just shoot the crap out of it and you'll get better. Your goal is to keep everything 100% maintained, but still wear everything out. Multiple times, hopefully! :-)

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Bret,

How many reloads do you get out of you .260AI brass after it is fire formed?

Will

That is totally dependent on how close to the ragged edge of pressure you run. Case life is identical to any other cartridge - which means it can be as low as 1 if you're crazy on velocity and pressure, or quite a few reloads if you're more "normal."

There isn't any difference with the AI vs. a factory design, so whatever your experience with other cases is, that is what you can expect. I can't quote you a number with confidence as it wouldn't be relative to your own reloading and powder combos, if that makes sense. For what it's worth, I have only tossed a handful of cases so far, and that is from load development. They are lasting a looonggg time for me so far, and I'm running the 142smk's at 2900 on top of 46 grains of RL19. I can get 3000 with VV560 but I have a lot of RL19 laying around I need to burn up. Best group was a 5-shot 1 3/8" at 700 yds with that load.

Hope that helps!

Edited by Bret Heidkamp
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