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Aftermarket Tenifer


spook

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Merlin started a thread about buying a Norinco as a base gun for a custom project. I started looking on the net for Norincos and read nothing but good stuff in the reviews (I somehow thought they were junk). So, I decided to find one on my side of the ocean. Well, I ran into two guns. One is bone stock, used and will go across the counter for $250. The other one is “half tuned” with a new hammer, sear, trigger, guide rod and S&A magwell it is also used and costs only $175. I haven’t seen them live, just on the net, but they are still available. I want to start out with one and add some cheap parts like a grip safety, sights, safety, grips etc.

My only problem is that whatever my hands touch rusts, except for stainless steel and my tenifered glock slide. So I considered having it tenifered. I am looking for experiences with aftermarket tenifer. Anyone try it? I really like the rough tenifer look on my 2nd gen Glock. And it really doesn’t rust. Anything I should be aware of?

And while we’re at it, I’ll add some immediate thread drift: which one of the two guns would you get?

Thanks!

Bjorn

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And while we’re at it, I’ll add some immediate thread drift: which one of the two guns would you get?

Bjorn,

some 10 years ago I bought a used (box-stock configuration) stainless steel Colt MKIV Series '80. Then, wanting to give IPSC shooting a try, I ordered some aftermarket parts from Brownells, other stuff I found here locally, and then had enormous fun in fitting those parts to my gun.

I felt like a child playing Lego.

Guess what? I shot my first two years of IPSC shooting playing in Standard division with a single stack... :wacko:

The drift is to suggest that if you ever dreamed of customizing your gun all by yourself, you should go the bone-stock route.

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Hi Luca!

Yeah, that is what I figured. The thing that made me doubt is that the half tuned one is so damned cheap (€150) and I’ll still have to fit sights, grips, safety, grip safety, dehorn the whole thing etc.) I still have a P7M13 laying around that I never use, so I’ll probably trade that one in somewhere for $400 and get them both ;)

I also intend to use them for IPSC, single stack division or standard. Doing an extra reload or two won’t hurt (I hope ;))

I also think I’ll be like a kid with a new box of Lego when I get my hands on one and a handful of King’s parts :D

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Spook~ Do NOT trade your p7m13 for $400. I will do all that is nessecary to acquire it from you for that kind of money, regardless of the fact that there is an ocean between us. I got an old Norinco from my grandfathers estate and thinking it was a piece of crap made it a test bed for my first gunsmithing project. I fit some new safeties, new rear sight, and new trigger parts. I botched on fitting the beavertail and had my gunsmith fix it for me. The gun runs the same as it did before at 100%, but it is more comfy now.

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Bjorn,

Both sounds like a good idea.

Can you get the tenifer process done near you? From what I hear, if uses some nasty chemicals and nobody seems willing to do the process in the States. (It may not even be legal here because of the chemicals?)

The next best thing seems to be hard-chrome.

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Bjorn

Condition being equal on the two guns - go with the $175.00. Might like the parts already on it... And even if you do decide to replace everything you are $75.00 ahead. Sounds like it would be hard to go wrong with either gun.

+1 on the hardchrome. Lasts forever.. :)

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Can you get the tenifer process done near you? From what I hear, if uses some nasty chemicals and nobody seems willing to do the process in the States. (It may not even be legal here because of the chemicals?)

Yeah, that's the cool part. There's a shop close to where I live that will tenifer a whole gun for about $60, which seems like an awesome deal.

On the Hard Chrome, I have seen test results comparing HC to Tenifer, and the Tenifer is much better in withstanding rust. I have also seen quite some rust on HC guns (especially in the checkered area of the grip).

The test was from a company that does both and the HC is more expensive, so I take it the test is no biased :D

Kimber Kid, I was being sarcastic :lol: Don't worry, I won't sell it yet :P

But P7M13's are a lot cheaper here than in the states. They usually go for under $550 used. If you ever consider one, you might want to take a look at importing one from Germany.

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Can you get the tennifer process done near you. From what I hear, if uses some nasty chemicals and nobody seems willing to do the process in the States. (It may not even be legal hear because of the chemicals?)

Yeah, that's the cool part. There's a shop close to where I live that will tenifer a whole gun for about $60, which seems like an awesome deal.

On the Hard Chrome, I have seen test results comparing HC to Tenifer, and the Tenifer is much better in withstanding rust. I have also seen quite some rust on HC guns (especially in the checkered area of the grip).

The test was from a company that does both and the HC is more expensive, so I take it the test is no biased :D

Kimber Kid, I was being sarcastic :lol: Don't worry, I won't sell it yet :P

But P7M13's are a lot cheaper here than in the states. They usually go for under $550 used. If you ever consider one, you might want to take a look at importing one from Germany.

Tenifer or Melonite is actually a conversion of the surface of the steel (kind of like anodize) Hard chrome is only a coating. We have seen rust come thru chrome in several instances.

Golden touch in many cases is caused by tobacco use. We have had many machinists that smoke who can rust Kurt vises like sea water. Dave

B)

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If you can get tenifer done cheap then that is no contest. (Unless you want shiny and pretty chrome.)

I don't pamper my glock much. I've worn the parkerizing off in places..my sights (Heinie) get rusty from time to time...but, the Tenifer slide shows no rust worries.

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If you can get tenifer done cheap then that is no contest. (Unless you want shiny and pretty chrome.)

I don't pamper my glock much. I've worn the parkerizing off in places..my sights (Heinie) get rusty from time to time...but, the Tenifer slide shows no rust worries.

I don't really care for the shiny chrome. I have a 2nd Gen G17 that has the "bead blasted" tenifer look. It looks very nice (better than the new "shiny" Glocks IMHO). I'll ask if they canmake it look that way.

I have also worn out the black of my Glock in various places and I actually love the look. It looks used and the only way to make it look better is to use it more ;)

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I would make sure it's really a Tenifer-like process. I'd bet that it is not. Lots of folks think the Glock finish is the same as the spray & bake stuff -- which is not the case -- and market their finishes as being equivalent.

I'm fairly certain that Flex is right, and it's not even legal (stupid EPA) to do the Tenifer process in the US.

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I would make sure it's really a Tenifer-like process. I'd bet that it is not. Lots of folks think the Glock finish is the same as the spray & bake stuff -- which is not the case -- and market their finishes as being equivalent.

I'm fairly certain that Flex is right, and it's not even legal (stupid EPA) to do the Tenifer process in the US.

Actually you can get the melonite process in orange, CA.

The other link is a short discussion of melonite vs. tennifer. They are essentially the same thing.

http://burlingtoneng.com/melonite.html

http://www.finishing.com/324/69.shtml

Dave Hearth B)

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Also, don't forget that I am in Europe (where Glocks are from :P), so rules are different here ;)

The company calls it TENIFERtm so it appears to be a trademark name. They say its almost equal to QPQ (quench polish quench).

I think it's the real deal.

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Also, don't forget that I am in Europe (where Glocks are from :P), so rules are different here ;)

The company calls it TENIFERtm so it appears to be a trademark name. They say its almost equal to QPQ (quench polish quench).

I think it's the real deal.

Sorry Spook,

I dont get out much. CA, AZ, and NV is pretty much my world. Dave B)

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Also, don't forget that I am in Europe (where Glocks are from :P), so rules are different here ;)

The company calls it TENIFERtm so it appears to be a trademark name. They say its almost equal to QPQ (quench polish quench).

I think it's the real deal.

Sorry Spook,

I dont get out much. CA, AZ, and NV is pretty much my world. Dave B)

Well, I don't blame ya! :D

I'd probably do the same. I t sounds like frigging shooting heaven over there. My post was a reaction to MoNsTeR's post though ;)

I know there used to be a company in Germany called "Hartchrom Feige." Have you checked them out?

Will do today! Thanks for the heads up :)

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Tenifer is a trade name for the process as used in Europe, but it is a salt bath nitriding process. Although, if I remember correctly, I think they only go through a one-step process in that version (I may be wrong about that). Here in the states the process was developed by a company called Kolene that came up with the QPQ (quench-polish-quench) which improves the salt resistance, lubricity, and the surface hardness. I have had several guns done with this process, including an HK93, two Para Ord P16-40s, and a Browning BDA380. As of the last time I had it done, H&M Metal Processing in Cuyahoga Falls, OH (330-928-9021) was the only Kolene processing facility with an FFL that could receive the frame of the pistol. Don't know if that's still correct or not.

I love the results. My two competion Para's are now sorta like Glock Para's :D . I shot the MS Classic match last year in the rain, and the only part that started showing rust (by the end of the first day! :wacko: ) was the barrel, which hadn't been nitrided. I had the frame, slide, grip safety, and all my mag bodies done on that one. I have since done my other Para, and included the barrel in that go'round.

As far as how the parts need to be sent in, they need to stripped of any coatings (powdercoating, paints, etc.), but bluing can stay. NO ALUMINUM (it will melt), and no springs, but pretty much all other steel parts are good to go.

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vsound,

Can you post some picks of your Para's. Thanks

Tag

If I can get the camera away from the wife, I'll see about taking a coupla pics. Don't know if it will really show much. It may just look like bluing in the pictures, but I'll see.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll probably get a better finish outside of the US. Here in the US we have pretty stringent EPA guidelines manufactures have to follow. I think I remember reading that something in the Tenifer finish is somehow harmful to the enviornment? And its not just firearms, US auto manufactures have had to use a "softer paint" on thier cars as well. Ever notice how a Ford or Chevys finish doesn't hold up well as most imports?

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Sorry it took so long to get a picture, but I just haven't had time when I've had access to the camera.

The process of nitriding and tenifering is pretty much the same whether in the US or EU. In either case they are using cyanide salts, which is why there's strict regs on using them. But, just because there may be stricter regs here doesn't mean the finish won't be comparable.

Anyway, let's see if this works to load up a picture....it may not show the finish particularly well, but it kinda shows it.

post-5062-1135208490_thumb.jpg

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