ValricoWill Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 I just "upgraded" from a LEE value turret to the Dillon Square B Deal- in 45LC...I was tired of 'wrestling' the LEE, as each bullet was an individual. The Dillon is no change, and worse in some respects. The new wrestling match is the down stroke coming after the powder charge- and I discover the Bell Crank is hitting the edge of the spacer bar that houses the powder bar. -each, and every time. Yes, the fail safe rod is tightened up IAW the manual; and I'm getting a steady/consistent grain charge on each drop- but it's the Station 2 of Misery each and every time. Shoot, the LEE was tight, but not an actual mechanical design where you are supposed to hit the edge of the spacer bar to "prevent a double charge" (?!?). -making sure you have the primer sat (following the tight Station one sizing), is a step having to be remembered (LEE, it's station 1)...then, the clank/drag, and hold for a release of the casing- well, it's not worth the 2 1/2 times of the cost. Intercepting the casing along the merry-go-round is fun- prying (not losing) the brass stops. -Set up, it is easier overall than the LEE, but the idiosyncrasies (I've yet gotten to the lubing of it with the blue grease)- are disappointing. This was about the Bell hitting the spacer, but its pretty much how this whole swap-out has/is becoming...just meeting a lot of unnecessary resistance. -losing the fun out of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Can you post a video of your issue? I am having problems understanding what you are doing. I will start by saying that you should be lubing your case's. With Hornady one shot. It definitely Makes a difference. All Dillon sizing dies are on the tight side. (Thank small base type.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 AHI, please see attached picture...and yes, I'm gonna (after 3k rounds in the LEE with never needing lube)- getting some. It can only help, I guess. I just hope it don't gum up the works (LOL). Please attached about the Bell Crank Clank.... -think about it, at that station, when hitting something, the first (normal) reaction is to not force it, and back up...and that would cause a double charge... I can't believe that it's a purposeful design. Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I am going to say that is not your issue. Your cases are sticking to the expander(powder funnel). You probably wet clean your brass. Lubing will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 No, it's the ear of the bell crank hitting that edge of the powder body assy. Each and every time. I've now heard that the hitting was designed so as to ensure the powder bar is cleared (tapped)...older versions didn't have this type of set-up (only a single bell, and no deliberate swing in to a body part). The cases aren't sticking to anything- that's not an issue- it's the doggone bell hitting the outer edge of the assy, each and every time. - these are new cases by the way...Starlines...I have Winchesters, and Great Lakes also as back-up. The machine is new, so I am using all new brass as well. Thanks AHI, but no wet cleans on the brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 (edited) New brass has the same issue. Try this remove all the brass. Empty the power measure. Now push the powder bar as if it was dropping powder.you will have to pull the handle down some to do this. Now go all the way down as if you are loading ammo. Then back up as to prime. Do you still have a problem.? If not your brass is sticking. If you do then you have something bent , assembled wrong or not adjusted correctly. Edited November 9, 2021 by AHI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 The issue is your failsafe rod, not anything else. Do not do what the manual tells you. Tighten the failsafe rod up until it pulls both of those pieces down. There should be no slack at all between them. With the rod inserted and tightened down, the part with the hole (the one that is hitting) should be at the bottom of the slot. If you do this, the part that is hitting will completely miss the powder bar and the clunking stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddc Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I'm not going to try to diagnose your problem but rather give some feedback on the Dillon vs Lee that you are more familiar with. Have a little faith. Once you get your Dillon dialed in you will likely come to realize it is a distinct step up from the Lee turret. I started with a Lee turret and still have it mounted on my bench. It is a great value for the money. It is great for load development and small batch jobs. It certainly has its place. However it pales in comparison to any of the Dillon machines. If I said it was a toy in comparison that would probably be an exaggeration (and piss some people off, lol) but after you get used to the Dillon that thought might enter the back of your mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 9, 2021 Author Share Posted November 9, 2021 (edited) Thanks G-One, I see in your post (the pic above) that the bottom edge of that housing is chipped off. (rod not attached, etc.)... Grafs techie confirmed that this was a design upgrade (lawyer vs. engineer) to ensure that the powder chamber was getting tapped to clear the throat. (?)... Old forum (I'm not the first), folks mention filing it down, etc...https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/255941-square-deal-b-powder-measure-correct-operation/ -that said, being that knock should be there, in some manufacturing, the spring is dialed in a little more than others- and I got one of those. Fail safe rod aside, and getting that spring all IAW the book (and techies at Dillon), it just winds up being the way it is. Crank/Clank/Wrestle- Next. Maybe after a few thousand, it'll wear down natural like...LOL. DDC- like an old saying, every dog's got fleas...Dillon is fancy and all, but a LEE you can take apart and fix/adjust somewhat easier than this Square Deal B. -and like you, I have it lurking nearby still too. This is just the first week...we'll see. Thanks all... Edited November 9, 2021 by ValricoWill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Nothing on my powder measure is "chipped away", but bear in mind, mine is not a SDB, but a 550 powder measure, but they are similar enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jsjac Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 You can just bend the arm with a couple pairs of pliers so it does not hit on the return stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 The offending part (with 17838 stamped on it) can be easily removed. Take that assembly off the press, grind the back of the pivot holding the two pieces together and pull the pivot out with some pliers. Reassemble the single arm to the press. Done. Just like the original SDB. If you still have problems with a sticky downstroke take the powder funnel out and turn it down to a diameter that will easily slip into a sized case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 Pyrric3gun- thanks. Using this pic as an example, are you saying removed the outer ear, keep the inner bell ear (attached to the safety rod)? seems I keep finding more folks finding the same issue- going back to 2005; just wonder if the Engineers at Dillon can sway the Lawyers- and design a better way to tap the powder throat to clear it (?)... 1) https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/29112-ear-of-bell-crank-assembly-hitting-powder-measure-body/ 2) http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive/index.php/t-1246863.html -I really like to work through the issue. There are no presses around except for the LEEs...and I have one of those- LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 -Oh, I also got some of that city-fella grease for the press now too...I wonder what the Dillon case lube will do to Station 1 after the first 1K rounds... The Dillon Lube Job (LMAO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Yep, I referenced the part number stamped on the one to remove. Don't know what powder you are using, but I've never had to "tap the powder throat", unless that's some kind of euphemism. :^) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 -Yeah- it's the chamber from the powder jug down to the die- post powder bar intercept- euphemism of sorts- swallows up the powder. It's the 30-degree angled side of the powder body assy (below powder bar/spacer)...that channel - AKA throat. -if you have the picture, I'd like to see the setup you did on the removal. That BEll haas to move in order to slide (engage) the powder drop- so the fail safe rod has to be connected there...the inner bell crank (long slide)- will need an adjustment (I'd imagine) to ensure closure of the bar and the opening via the ram stroke- taking up the slack from the now absent offending dog-eared bell (another euphemism-LOL), part# 17838 took up. Doggone it... One guy back in 2015 re-angled the safety rod (on a 550 though)- same concept...hard to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Not complicated. The return rod still acts the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValricoWill Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Hey, thanks. I just finished up a load/ primered out, and ready to change recipes anyway. Now's a good time to make this mod. Gracias! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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