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Case-pro breaking plastic screws


kmc

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I purchased an automated Case-Pro 100 used and have used it to rollsize thousands of .40 brass without much issue. I switched to the .45 die (and the green case feeder "adapter") to rollsize .45 acp cases. It works fine for awhile but then binds and breaks off the screw head. It won't go more than ~20 brass before this happens. Upon closer examination, it appears what happens is the .45 case begins to drop but before it completely drops, the moving die has moved out of position. The brass has started to drop enough that the case base is caught preventing the "transfer bar" from retracting under the case feeder tube. It briefly binds and then snaps off the screw head. It seems like the case is not aligned properly with the die to drop cleanly, though it works much of the time. I tried lengthening and shortening the drive arm from the motor which should move the case location (relative to the die) back/forth a bit but I haven't found the magic position yet. Is there some trick to aligning this properly when switching calibers?

 

btw, I did notice that the plastic transfer bar has some damage on the corner of the angled slot in which the screw head rides, which my prevent the plastic screw from causing a full extension. I did try to temporarily repair it to make sure I was getting a full extension but no success so far. My current attempt is to order a new transfer bar, hoping that will fix it but it seems like I need a way to verify proper alignment.

 

Ideas?

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  • 4 weeks later...

You're right on the CF adapter colors. I have Green and Red which covers 9mm and 40/45 that I'm interested in. With that said, I was wrong in my original post above--I was correctly using Red with 45. However, I did find the problem and documented the following simple two-step process to correct my problem:

 

  1. Tighten all capscrews on the Case-Pro.
  2. See step #1.

I had Case-Pro pieces that had vibrated a bit loose and were moving just enough to cause issues.

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6 hours ago, caspian guy said:

If you don't mind me asking which screws were loose?

The shuttle was a bit loose (#1 below) and changed the geometry enough while running that the brass transfer bar and nylon cap screw did not get along. I later learned that #2 (both screws circled--one above the other) were also loose which upon tightening, improved my time to failure considerably. YMMV

IMG_8165.thumb.jpg.217d395ef753bff4899e83390cd74a03.jpg

Edited by kmc
clarification of description
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Just now, 2tuf4u said:

Did you remember to smear a small amount of heavy grease on the bottom of the brass shuttle--it eliminates excess movement for better transfer alignment.?

No, I had no idea I needed to do that. Unfortunately, I bought this one used since it was available and it didn't come with any instructions or tips. Would love to hear this or other tips out there. I have found that I seem to be breaking corners off the shuttle on a regular basis, which then lead to insufficient movement of the shuttle and issues dropping brass.

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11 hours ago, kmc said:

No, I had no idea I needed to do that. Unfortunately, I bought this one used since it was available and it didn't come with any instructions or tips. Would love to hear this or other tips out there. I have found that I seem to be breaking corners off the shuttle on a regular basis, which then lead to insufficient movement of the shuttle and issues dropping brass.

PM me your email address, I can send your a pdf of the instructions.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/18/2021 at 6:08 PM, blue edge said:

 I just broke one of those plastic screws. Looking for bolt thread size and pitch?

Thanks Kevin

They are Nylon Socket Head Screws, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 1/4" Long

 

If you can't find them local, let me know

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  • 4 weeks later...

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