kmc

I'm not sure what specifically fixed the problem, but I did several things per above and I've since made ~20K rounds without this issue. Without studying my comments above, I recollect making these changes: Moved to a new MBF feeder. I still have a hard time believing the funnel wore out but I did have many (tens of) thousands of rounds on the old one. I did clean my old one before I swapped to no avail, but I can't vouch for how it looked microscopically. Implemented rubber non-spill buttons in place of the brass Dillon buttons on the last 2 stations plus a "brush button" after the powder fill station prior to where I run a powder check. Added zip tie "bumper guards" to the press between buttons as AHI showed above (video below only shows one but I do it on everything after powder fill now). Adjusted the M7 timing so that it paused after index--I'm not home now so I cannot tell you the final settings. This change slowed down my press a bit but I believe this was a big factor (maybe the biggest) in the bullets no longer tipping. I can check this when I get home if you'd like to know my settings. Here is a video where I show a bit of this experience ==>

In late Nov 2021, total shipped price to US was just under $248...and worth every penny

I have the DAA plate installed on two different Dillon case feeders--both are different vintages and pre-variable speed. My understanding was the DAA wedge should only be used on the variable speed while the DAA plate is used across all Dillon models.

Use mine on a 1050- and 650- attached Dillon case feeders (different vintages). Have never seen this with Dillon's plates or since I installed DAA.

I'm the original poster and have tried every solution suggested here. If you watch my video in slow motion, you'll see the powder "splash" out of the case. I was definitely able to improve the situation with the best solution in my testing proving to be the straw. However, I could never make the splash go away entirely--it simply made the loader messy over a period of time. I finally gave up on this powder check and moved on. Today I have moved to an M7-automated 1050 and I use the M7 powder check, which is similar to the Dillon powder check in design. However, I actually believe the design is slightly more accurate than Dillon but is less flexible in that it will trigger on no case, which the Dillon will not. However, relative to this thread, neither spills the amount of powder over time that I have experienced with the DAA detector.

Thanks for the info. Mine does say "Loader", so I assume it must be current based on your comments. You did spark my interest on your 4-stage motor comment. This unit is on the order of a year old--how do I tell which motor I have?

Yes, I found it after this post. Thanks.

That has been my experience as well. I have various lengths (and generations) of 9mm for Open and 40 for Limited.

That's what I had to to in order to resolve the confusion with my first set of mags.

Actually his video is anything but clear and he never clearly shows what he's talking about. Before I got a Gen2 tube, it was unclear what version I had. Having two tubes of different vintage side-by-side, the difference is subtle at best. I know I'm not the only only one left wondering by his video. It would have been much better had he carefully shown what he's talking about.

That’s not my point. I have a set of tubes and I have no ideA whether they are gen1 or gen 2. Which followers do I order? That is missing my point. I have a set of tubes and I have no idea if they are gen1 or gen2. What followers do I order? His video is anything but clear.

And, while I'm a big MBX fan...owning many copies, Adrian's video explaining how to tell the difference is ANYTHING but clear. In fact he almost makes it MORE confusing.

There is a subtle difference in the body toward the top of the mag and a corresponding difference in the follower.

Thanks. I split this out to a separate thread to see if anyone else can weigh in.

Can anyone tell me whether there are release notes or a change log published on the M7 firmware levels? I can't seem to find anything. I'm currently running "Version: 00.02.11 Firmware: 1050 PRO 40, Motor: 3432 (3) On USB". When I unzip the latest from their website I get the files below in the zip. Based on the dates and the age of my Autodrive, I assume I have the latest. Can anyone tell me if the files below will give you the version I have? I'm not willing to just install it and see what happens!

I know where to get my version. I was asking for yours so I could compare to mine. I'll check mine when I get home. I know I can get the latest from their website but I've been unable to find any kind of version control history with changes or tell how my version compares to the current one they have posted. I know too much about firmware updates to just trust that it will be better--in my view, if it ain't broke definitely applies...

What version did you upgrade to? Is there a way to tell what is the current version number?

FWIW, I had finally tuned my 40 setup to run 100%. However, some required pressing in the gauge to pass the Hundo. Based on some ideas above, I replaced my Dillon factory holddown (in station 3) with a second sizing die sans decapper--a Hornady Custom Grade--and my gauge success went to nearly 100%. Problem solved.

Maybe so--I didn't looks specifically at what was bypassed. However, if Dillon doesn't support a 300% improved performance on their product with a simple plate, some other supplier will. The speed improvement with a better-designed plate is too good to pass up. Seems like a better approach might be to partner with DAA and have a supported way to run full speed. I realize I'm probably just tilting at windmills here...

There are two useful online videos--one of which where he demonstrates that it clocks nearly 12K cases/hr on a Dillon case-feeder. Note that if you have the new Dillon DC motor case-feeder, it won't run at full speed since it's dropping cases so fast past the "tube full" detector, the new Dillon keeps reverting to their slow down/start up mode. The second video and online info shows you a simple (non-Dillon approved) wiring mod to disable Dillon's "accelerate/decelerate" mode--switch still shuts the motor off of course.

Definitely not. The plate design is the magic.

Ok, I guess I'll have to admit it--my OCD problem is what causes me to notice and care!

I'm told my 1050 has one of the last case-feeders shipped with high and low speeds before Dillon switched to variable speed case-feeders. Now that I've automated the 1050, I'd like to speed up the case-feeder or possibly load it up with more brass. However, that would require a relatively spendy upgrade to get variable speed and a higher torque motor--whether Dillon or other supplier. I recently watched the video for the DAA Turbo Case-Feeder (here ==> https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-turbo-case-feeder-plate) and ordered it. It is supposed to be both much faster (due to improved efficiency), work with all pistol calibers, and have fewer jams. It doesn't of course give me any more torque. I only received it today and devised a quick test to compare basic speeds. Mind you that I've run this test but haven't yet used it for much reloading--I'll get to that later this week. What I did was dump a bowl of clean, roll-sized 40S&W range brass in the case-feeder and run it on high until the tube is filled. I then emptied the tube, setting this brass aside without disturbing the case-feeder and ran it until the tube filled a 2nd time. Here are the times: Dillon - 38.45sec (first tube), 36.19sec (second tube) DAA Turbo - 18.96sec (first tube), 12.47sec (second tube) In a word, Wow! Yes, very limited test and of course YMMV. However, first impression is pretty good bang for the buck.

I too use a cutaway die to set my swager--both the DP holddown and the swager underneath. I'm running this with 40 and had the holddown die set to the bottom of the case and the swager set appropriately in the primer pocket. This positioning causes the brass to expand such that it will not drop into the hundo after station 3. It isn't the slight bell that stops it, it is the expansion toward the bottom of the case that does won't go into the Hundo. My crimp die is a combo seat/crimp so I can run a powder check. It takes the top bell/expansion out without issue but does not remove it toward the bottom of the shell. If I set the combo die up to go further toward the shellplate, it crimps too tightly at the top. I know the combo dies are tricky to set and have followed the suggested procedure as far as I know.

This seems like a good alternative but I’ve not always been crazy about U dies. Doesn’t it leave all your rounds with a coke bottle shape? Prior to the automation another downside was how hard it worked the brass though as a second sizer, I can see why it wouldn’t be as bad.