Troubleshooting

[COF]

When I was cleaning my 625, I noticed a real rough edge on the end of the barrel. I found if I held the cylinder forward when closing, the edge of the cylinder would hit the end of the barrel. I'm assuming this could be corrected by installing an end shake bearing. How do you determine what thickness you need to install?

Before I load my moonclips, I run all my rounds through a case gauge. After I load the moonclips, I always check each one in the gun to make sure they will fall into place. I've still had problems with some moonclips hanging up about .25" out of the cylinder when reloading during a match. I've had a couple other 625's and this is the only one I've had this probl4em with. Any ideas on what would cause this?

Jerry

[R112mercer]

Jerry;

I'm not a gunsmith but I had a similar problem on my 625. The endshake got so bad the cylinder would hang up on the edge of the forcing cone. My gunsmith re-cut the end of the forcing cone to smooth it out, and took the endshake out. To take out the endshake he used a tool that looks like a pipecutter, you put it on the cylinder bearing, tighten it, and give it a twist. It lengthens the bearing when it cuts a little groove in it. An endshake bushing is only necessary when the bearing gets real bad.

Are you using lead bullets? Sometimes lead can hang up on the cylinder wall once the gun gets hot. Other guys use lead with no problems, but I had my gun get jammed up on me a couple times, so I went to jacketed and never looked back. If you are using jacketed bullets than it could be unburnt powder on the chamber walls. Brownells has a neat chamber brush that has six brushes on one handle, a couple of passes will get rid of most of the crud.

[Carmoney]

COF, get the Power .002" cylinder bearings, you can always stack two or even three. This is actually better than stretching the yoke as the bearing provides a very durable and smooth bearing surface. You will need to disassemble the extractor rod assembly to install the bearing(s), contrary to what Jerry incorrectly shows in his DVD!

Regarding your second problem, is your gun by any chance a 625-2 Model of '88? They're known for having tight, sticky cylinders. The solution is reaming the chambers.

The speed brush Rob refers to is made by my old buddy Mark Allison, from Denver. Great wheelgunner from way back!

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

What has been posted so far is good. If you decide to stretch the yoke, a yoke liner must be used. I actually prefer this method and use it after flat facing he end of the barrel of the yoke.

As far as the brass seating is concerned, I had a lot of trouble with brass head stamped AMERC. Always had a bulge that made it not usable in a revolver.

regards,

[R112mercer]

As far as the brass seating is concerned, I had a lot of trouble with brass head stamped AMERC. Always had a bulge that made it not usable in a revolver.

regards,

Not usable in ANY gun. AMERC is crap, throw it out. There's a story floating around about a guy who lost at the PPC Nationals when his 1911 choked on a piece of AMERC brass.

[D.carden]

COF,

What Carmoney said is what you do.

I just finished setting up a new gun and installed a .002 bearing in it.

It had some play in it with out a shot fired through it.

I believe you can get those bearings in .004 thickness also. Sounds like you need'm

Dan

Edited October 30, 2005 by D.carden

[AzShooter]

Everyone has you on the right track but I will suggest one more solution to the problem of the loads not going into the cylinder.

Depending on what powder you are using the cylinder can be getting so dirty that you may only get one or two reloads in before you have to brush the cylinder out.

I found this to be true with a few powders, especially light loads with Tightgroup. 231 is also pretty dirty and leave a film in the cylinder

[Carmoney]

You should be able to make it through an entire major USPSA match (250+ rounds) and never have to brush once. If you can't do that, something needs changed.

Many of us are shooting 230-gr. bullets with Clays powder.

Do a search for more info.

[COF]

Thanks for all the tips. I'm going to order the bearing kit and install it

Mike, this is a 1989 625-3 Model. I've used two different loads - one with TG and one with WST. Both loads burn clean and don't leave any visible debris in the cylinder. The chambers don't look any rougher than any other revolver I've had. I'm going to give it to my gunsmith and have him ream the chambers.

I'll let you know what happens

Jerry

[Carmoney]

Jerry, I think that's a good move. Your gun might be an earlier 625-3 when they were still using up the tight 625-2 cylinders. This was a well-known problem back then, most of the name gunsmiths had the ream job as part of the tune-up package on the early 625s. I'll bet it's just fine after you have that done. Let us know.

Mike

[10mmdave]

If you decide to stretch the yoke, a yoke liner must be used.

How come ???

As a revo guy who has used both I'll stick with the pipecutter method and no shim, had

one hang up a cylinder once somehow, it got all mashed and enlarged and slowed the

spin down.

If you do stretch you'll most likely need the facing reamer Brownells sells also, that takes

some easy handling to use.

When streching the yoke find a drill bit that will fit in the hole, when you tighten up on the

"pipecutter" you squish down on the yoke shaft and that leaves a ring inside that can hang

up other parts.

Edited November 1, 2005 by 10mmdave

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

If you decide to stretch the yoke, a yoke liner must be used.

How come ???

(SNIP)

When streching the yoke find a drill bit that will fit in the hole, when you tighten up on the

"pipecutter" you squish down on the yoke shaft and that leaves a ring inside that can hang

up other parts.

That is what the Yoke liner is for. It is made to support the inside while using the tubing cutter method or the ball peen hammer method. It also makes sure the yoke is lined up straight on the frame. As far as making the end flat, a safe edge file on a good flat surface works fine for me. I also check the true of the extractor rod with a jig I have for that

Edited November 1, 2005 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[10mmdave]

If you decide to stretch the yoke, a yoke liner must be used.

How come ???

That is what the Yoke liner is for. It is made to support the inside while using the tubing cutter method or the ball peen hammer method. It also makes sure the yoke is lined up straight on the frame. As far as making the end flat, a safe edge file on a good flat surface works fine for me. I also check the true of the extractor rod with a jig I have for that

Ah me understand now I thought you were refering to the yoke shim, hence why

I asked why you did/needed both, my bad.

I use either the drill bit (drill bit shank by the way, not the twisted area) or the yoke

alignment tool.

I'm gonna need to make me one of those extractor rod alignment jigs myself, have a

couple revo's that are way out of round and rubbing on the hole in the yoke.

Ball peen hammer method I'll pass and use the tubing cutter.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Ball peen hammer method I'll pass and use the tubing cutter.

Using the liner and a bench block, you peen the end of the yoke to stretch it. Then square it off with a file.

If I were looking at a rod straightening tool again, I would probably buy the Power custom unit as it is easier to use.

Regards,