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RL1100 Setup Questions...........


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Once mounted securely, I got around to removing the Dillon dies, and installing my Redding Pro Series.  I then remembered that I had purchased the Lee U Die; based on all the recommendations here on the Forum from those loading precision 9mm.  First thing I noticed was the shorter Lee die, so I removed the o-ring and flipped the stock nut over.  Remembered Dillon Rep stating in another thread that all we needed was one thread to secure.....sure hope so.  Does anyone know if Lee has a newer, long version of the U Die available?

 

Went ahead and got the flare set just right using the MBF powder funnel under the Dillon PM at Station 5.  Then installed the Redding Pro adjustable seating and taper crimp dies after giving them a thorough cleaning.  While running 8 or 10 rounds through the press to check OAL and Crimp, I hit a stop about 3 or 4 rounds into production.  Come to find out a previous brass had, for some reason, pushed the decapper out the top of the Lee die and stopped me at the swage station.  Was doing dummy rounds using cleaned and lubed, once fired Winchester brass that still had the old primers intact.  For those using the U-Die, is the decapper popping up a common occurrence?  This is my first go around at using the U-Die, I'm wondering if the decapping pin was tightened enough when it left the factory?

 

I also, in a short time, have come to dislike the ratchet assembly.......prevents me from stopping and raising the handle mid stroke.  And yes, I realize it's a safety add-on; but I've loaded for 25 years on several XL650s and never had this restriction.  And, I'm very meticulous about safety and checking each round during and after a run!  So, can anyone offer me the correct procedure for removing the ratchet assembly without disturbing any other functions/settings?

 

Also wondering if the swage system needs to be verified it's adjusted correctly?  Or does Dillon do a pretty good job during their pre-shipping setup and testing?

 

Thanks for any help/recommendations from the seasoned S1050/RL1100 members here!

 

PS:  Just checked the 10 dummy rounds I made up, and 3 of the 10 have a "bulge" at the bottom of the case which won't allow them to fit the Dillon case guage.  All lubed with Hornady 1-shot, all Winchester once fired, cleaned brass......

 

Hmmmm.......

 

:cheers:

Edited by HOGRIDER
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Hog Rider - Sorry that I cannot answer any of your questions but I can tell you what was recommended to me by one of the CSR’s at Dillon related to verifying that your swage setting is correct....Here is the link to what he recommended I consider getting and using....Inexpensive insurance IMO....Mark

 

https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter

 

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2 ways to remove ratach system    1 is to remove #13376 ratchet restriction tab and related parts.

all adjustments on a new machine need final adjustment.

lee decap rod imo suck they wont stay use red lock tite on the rod not the threds.

The Lee undersize die I have is longer than any lee dies I have (its less than 2 years old)

imo the Redding would be a better choice.

 

Edited by AHI
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2 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Hog Rider - Sorry that I cannot answer any of your questions but I can tell you what was recommended to me by one of the CSR’s at Dillon related to verifying that your swage setting is correct....Here is the link to what he recommended I consider getting and using....Inexpensive insurance IMO....Mark

 

https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter

 

Sig:

I actually ordered the Ammobrass Swage Setter and got it in just before the press arrived.  So, I have that tool available.  Just need to research how to make final adjustments.......

 

ImmortoBot has a short video released promoting the Ammobrass setter showing how simple it is to adjust the swage using it:  

https://www.facebook.com/222417021489827/videos/748098842345182/          No mention of the Dillon Expander/Backup Swage Rod. 

 

Since this swageing system is new to me, I really need to insert the Ammobrass Swage Setter in Station #3 and see what role the Expander shaft plays in stabilizing the brass for the swager.

 

Thanks for your reply!

 

👍

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1 hour ago, AHI said:

2 ways to remove ratach system    1 is to remove #13376 ratchet restriction tab and related parts.

all adjustments on a new machine need final adjustment.

lee decap rod imo suck they wont stay use red lock tite on the rod not the threds.

The Lee undersize die I have is longer than any lee dies I have (its less than 2 years old)

imo the Redding would be a better choice.

 

AHI:

I was actually thinking of removing the #66010 Toolhead Ratchet as it seemed this single part would stop the restriction..........rather than removing four parts to disable the Ratchet Restriction Tab Assembly.  I'll take a closer look in the next coupe of days to see which option yields the results I'm after.

 

I'm going to check with EGW and see if they indeed have a newer, longer version that will at least be, IMO, a bit more stable. If I see that the Lee decap rod continues to "pop up" and need resetting, I'll throw the Redding Pro Sizer in and move on.  I've never had a sizing issue, that I'm aware of, with the Redding.

 

Thanks for your help and advice!

 

👍

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its actually one screw   all the other parts are now loose.

the toolhead part may require a shim installed and screw reinstalled.

to make the primer system work.

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1 minute ago, AHI said:

its actually one screw   all the other parts are now loose.

the toolhead part may require a shim installed and screw reinstalled.

to make the primer system work.

Going to take a look first thing tomorrow.......

 

THANKS!

 

:)

 

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Lee sizer/decapper:

1. There are just barely enough threads to get a lock ring on top of the tool head. There are plenty of threads on the bottom. I've got two lock rings; one on top; on on the bottom.

This is a fairly common workaround for using Lee dies on a Dillon tool head.

2. You really have to crank down on the decapping collet in order to get enough tension to hold it in place. I'm not convinced it's the greatest design but if I crank down hard enough it will stay. Most of the time. Eventually it will get pushed up. Reset it, continue on.

 

Ratchet: I elected to take off the little tab rather than the ratchet itself. The only reason I did it that way was I didn't want to upset the geometry between the cam guide bolt (#12486) and the primer system. I'd guess you could use a washer there or maybe it's not necessary.

 

Station 3 swage/expander: I don't think mine was set up all that well. I dremel'd a 9mm case similar to the way the ammobrass provides a window. 

One issue is that various headstamps have differences in their measurements. Set it up for one headstamp may not be ideal for another. 

I guess we have to find some happy medium?

One thing I just did following referencing this in one of your other 1100 threads: I chucked up the 9mm swage/expander in a drill press and reduced the diameter of the expander portion so that it no longer expands. I don't want that die affecting my flaring which will be done by the MBF funnel.

Edited by ddc
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Not saying this is the best way but in the video below (not my video) you will see what appears (correct me if I am wrong) that this reloader has removed part 66010 (toolhead ratchet) and then placed the 12486 (cam guide bolt) back into its previous location...If you go this route I read in another thread on this forum that this bolt will need to be heated as it is held in place with RED locktite...

 

Please e sure to post which route you went related to this issue as my plans will be to follow your recommendation....Thanks Mark

 

 

Edited by Sigarmsp226
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3 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Not saying this is the best way but in the video below (not my video) you will see what appears (correct me if I am wrong) that this reloader has removed part 66010 (toolhead ratchet) and then placed the 12486 (cam guide bolt) back into its previous location...If you go this route I read in another thread on this forum that this bolt will need to be heated as it is held in place with RED locktite...

 

Please e sure to post which route you went related to this issue as my plans will be to follow your recommendation....Thanks Mark

 

 

I did this on my 1100. Mine didn’t have loctite on it nor did my 1050. I always take this out when taking off toolhead my toolheads. 

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Mark, everyone:

I've got to run some errands this morning......hope to tackle this later today.

 

I've watched Peter Ryakhovskiy's video several times, and it does appear that he placed a washer of some sort behind the Primer Cam Guide Bolt.......but I'm not 100% positive that's what I'm seeing.............

 

His machine sure is smooth in that video!

 

Thanks again!

 

Ben

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In reference to the length of the U die, a year ago they were longer, no problem with your lock nut.  They have now gone back to the short version.  I asked the customer rep about it, and he said there was a discussion about it, and management decided to go the short route.

As mentioned, crank down on the decapping collet for it to work, but don't  over crank as it will not let the decapping pin slide up for a berdan primer and you will bend the tip of the decapping rod.. don't ask how I know.

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4 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

Mark, everyone:

I've got to run some errands this morning......hope to tackle this later today.

 

I've watched Peter Ryakhovskiy's video several times, and it does appear that he placed a washer of some sort behind the Primer Cam Guide Bolt.......but I'm not 100% positive that's what I'm seeing.............

 

His machine sure is smooth in that video!

 

Thanks again!

 

Ben

I just put the bolt back in on both presses no issues. But if you want to shim it out mic the silver ladder piece and shin with washers to the measurement of the ladder rachet part. I don’t see the to shim it though it works just fine with the bolt back in by itself 

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40 minutes ago, Dirtchevy841 said:

I just put the bolt back in on both presses no issues. But if you want to shim it out mic the silver ladder piece and shin with washers to the measurement of the ladder rachet part. I don’t see the to shim it though it works just fine with the bolt back in by itself 

Got back home and decided to see just how much effort would be required to remove the Toolhead Ratchet AND the Ratchet Restriction Tab Assembly. After fully lowering the press handle, the cam guide bolt and toolhead ratchet came off with very little effort!

With the handle still full down, the ratchet tab assembly bolt was fully exposed.  Now this bolt did take a little effort, but broke free using an allen t-handle wrench.  Backed the bolt out and the complete assembly comes right off!

I did get the micrometer out and measure the Toolhead Ratchet's thickness.  Replaced it with a couple of 1/4" flat washers that came very close in thickness, reinstalled the cam guide bolt with a little blue loctite, and the press is back in business!  IMO, using a couple of flat washers would place the primer cam back in the same approximate location for press operation.

 

BTW:  I struck up a conversation via Messinger with Peter Ryakhovskiy who produced the YouTube video above, and he stated that after loading many years with XL650s, he purchased a S1050 and now an RL1100; and that he had removed the Ratchet Safety System from both presses to

.....it will make it work just like a 650....

.  I feel confident he was referring to the "smoothness" of the XL650..........  I also asked about the die in station #2 as it appeared to be a Lee die, but a bit longer than the U Die.  He said that video had a Lee Universal Decapper die as he processes/sizes on another press with the Lee U Die.  Did mention he also had the 1050 set up with a Mark 7 auto drive. 

 

Thanks for ALL the feedback!  

 

Now, if I can decide to keep using the U Die or convert back to the Redding Pro Sizer.  I had read in several older threads that if one purchased the U Die from EGW, then it was only undersized .001" vs the standard Lee U Die being undersized .003".  A quick call to EGW confirmed what's stated on their U Die description that their U Die (9mm) is the stock undersize (.003") as Lee produces.  Always have been........

 

👍

 

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16 hours ago, ddc said:

Lee sizer/decapper:

1. There are just barely enough threads to get a lock ring on top of the tool head. There are plenty of threads on the bottom. I've got two lock rings; one on top; on on the bottom.

This is a fairly common workaround for using Lee dies on a Dillon tool head.

2. You really have to crank down on the decapping collet in order to get enough tension to hold it in place. I'm not convinced it's the greatest design but if I crank down hard enough it will stay. Most of the time. Eventually it will get pushed up. Reset it, continue on.

 

Ratchet: I elected to take off the little tab rather than the ratchet itself. The only reason I did it that way was I didn't want to upset the geometry between the cam guide bolt (#12486) and the primer system. I'd guess you could use a washer there or maybe it's not necessary.

 

Station 3 swage/expander: I don't think mine was set up all that well. I dremel'd a 9mm case similar to the way the ammobrass provides a window. 

One issue is that various headstamps have differences in their measurements. Set it up for one headstamp may not be ideal for another. 

I guess we have to find some happy medium?

One thing I just did following referencing this in one of your other 1100 threads: I chucked up the 9mm swage/expander in a drill press and reduced the diameter of the expander portion so that it no longer expands. I don't want that die affecting my flaring which will be done by the MBF funnel.

ddc:

Thank you! for always providing detailed info!

 

HR

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On 5/7/2020 at 11:20 PM, ddc said:

Lee sizer/decapper:

1. There are just barely enough threads to get a lock ring on top of the tool head. There are plenty of threads on the bottom. I've got two lock rings; one on top; on on the bottom.

This is a fairly common workaround for using Lee dies on a Dillon tool head.

2. You really have to crank down on the decapping collet in order to get enough tension to hold it in place. I'm not convinced it's the greatest design but if I crank down hard enough it will stay. Most of the time. Eventually it will get pushed up. Reset it, continue on.

 

Ratchet: I elected to take off the little tab rather than the ratchet itself. The only reason I did it that way was I didn't want to upset the geometry between the cam guide bolt (#12486) and the primer system. I'd guess you could use a washer there or maybe it's not necessary.

 

Station 3 swage/expander: I don't think mine was set up all that well. I dremel'd a 9mm case similar to the way the ammobrass provides a window. 

One issue is that various headstamps have differences in their measurements. Set it up for one headstamp may not be ideal for another. 

I guess we have to find some happy medium?

One thing I just did following referencing this in one of your other 1100 threads: I chucked up the 9mm swage/expander in a drill press and reduced the diameter of the expander portion so that it no longer expands. I don't want that die affecting my flaring which will be done by the MBF funnel.

ddc:

Still thinking about modding the Dillon Expander.....machine it down..........and was wondering if you had a final diameter you finished up with to stop the expanding on any preferred 9mm case?

 

I'm also wondering if one of these could be substituted?

 

http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=62

 

Swaging backup shaft is .300", and only requires an additional Dillon Rifle Expander die body and a locknut............

 

🤔

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1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

ddc:

Still thinking about modding the Dillon Expander.....machine it down..........and was wondering if you had a final diameter you finished up with to stop the expanding on any preferred 9mm case?

 

Approximately .345 at the base of the expanding portion and about .350 about where the top of the case would be.

I can take the sized case from station 2 and easily slide it up the die until the swage support rod hits the base of the case. 

If I let loose of it at that point it just drops; no friction.

I doubt if you need to take it down quite  that far but I figured once I decided to take it down a little I might as well take it down a lot as it was never going to be doing any more expanding.

 

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15 hours ago, AHI said:

 

I'm very interested in the MA swage backer die..........can you tell me if it uses the "flicker spring" above the backer shaft?  I'm thinking it would fit under the top cap of the die, and possibly allow a bit of "wiggle room" for the backer shaft in case of using different brass with different thicknesses at the case head.........

 

Thanks!

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