Singlestack Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 I just installed a Ed Brown Grip safety in a Para alloy frame (my first beavertail installation) and I need a way to anodize where I filed. Is it possible to spot anodize or do I have to get the whole frame redone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 ss, I've never heard of spot anodizing; I think you're looking at the whole thing. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 What color is the frame? Aluminum anodizing can be done in gold, silver, or black. If it is black, you can buy aluminum "bluing" liquid for touch-up. If it is silver, I have not seen anything available. FYI- anodizing is a plating process using electricity (the term "anode" is the electrical terminal of a diode). I believe you have to hook the piece to be anodozed to the wire and dip it into the tank solution and the material plates out onto the alumnium. If you are getting the whole thing re-anodized: I have seen yellow (gold) colored anodizing if you want a unique looking gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 Its also available in red and blue if not more colors. Anode is also the term for the Plate in a Vacuum Tube. Current flows from the Cathode to the Anode. In plating the Anode or Cathode gets the deposits depending on the polarity of the material in solution. Spot plating can be done using a sponge, cotton ball... soaked with the plating solution, with a metal backing plate (Stainless Steel ?) insulated from the lathe for the eletrical connection. I've seen this done in a lathe to Hard Chrome a shaft that was worn, remachined and the Hard Chrome was used to build up the surface to the original size. Spot Anodizing could possibly be done this way too, with out the Lathe of course. BUT you run the risk of transferring the details of the surface of the pad to the finish. In the Lathe setup it was in constant motion, both rotating and longitudinally. Also theres the problem of matching the color. mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 7, 2001 Author Share Posted December 7, 2001 I have done some reasearch since I made the orignal post and found out just how ignorant I was regarding anodizing. Bountyhunter, I have not heard of a touch up fluid. Got any more info on this? I'm not worried about cosmetics right now as I know I will have to get the whole frame done but something to hold me until I am ready would be nice. Anybody got any suggestions on a place to get the frame redone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 10, 2001 Author Share Posted December 10, 2001 Bountyhunty, you out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 I used to have stuff anodized here in Michigan from Alpha metal finishers. (I think, its been a while.) I gave up due to cost. Anodizers do batches of parts for regular clients. They weren't going to risk having my part contaminat a batch run, so they would run my part by itself. Big cost. But it is worth asking the metal finishers in your area if they'll do it. One tip: remove the plunger and grip bushings before you send it. Steel in the bath is a big no-no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 SS, A doublestack??? For shame...at least it's a 45. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 12, 2001 Author Share Posted December 12, 2001 Flex, How did you know it was a .45 ?!?!?!?! I must admit, the lure of hi-caps has drawn me in. I got a good deal on a Para that was built by Clark for bullseye that does not have a ramped barrel and the thing is a tack driver. It has been a fun project turning it into a IPSC gun. I have been keeping it a secret from my shooting buddies since they are going to respond like you did . Watch out limited........ here I come! I hope to have it running in a match this weekend. I'll let you know how it (I) do. Oh yeah, It also had a .125 big ol fat front sight. I opened up the rear to .135 and it looks like it might be the ticket for my old eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpty1 Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 I can't believe you're abandoning Lim-10 and Production. You'll have to change your moniker from Singlestack to Wide-body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 12, 2001 Author Share Posted December 12, 2001 Hey, after reviewing last weekend's match, I think the "widebody" moniker fits...... I have to lose this gut! I'm not abandoning lim-10 and production.... I'm just about to make "B" lim-10 (might already be) and there is no one in our area that shoots lim-10 as a "B" , so I thought I'd shoot limited for a while and wait for some folks (sandbaggers) to make "B" lim-10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 SS, Tee-hee. Old indian trick. Hey, get some of those Dawson base pads. 18 rounds of 45 rocks. (In for a penny, in for a pound.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 12, 2001 Author Share Posted December 12, 2001 Got em..... In my opinion, you are not playing the hi-cap game unless you can stick at least 18 in the mag. With the way the target arrays are being set up to be 8 round neutral, I feel you must be able to go at least 2 arrays to gain any benefit from a hi-cap. Now, if I can just break the habbit of dropping a mag every time I move............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 Singlestack- Sorry, I didn't reply promptly. The solution for "blacking" aluminum is available at gun shops and is made by the same company who makes the stuff for steel. It comes in a blue bottle. You just clean the area and touch it on with a Q-tip then rinse off and saturate with oil (I think it has to cure over night). I'm trying to remember the brand name and I think it's that Birchwood-Casey stuff. I am pretty sure it's not as durable as actual anodizing, but it does work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 GUNRUNNER: are you an Electrical Engineer too or just a former TV repairman? I used to play with shortwaves when I was younger, so I know all that stuff about tubes. I was afraid talking about tubes would give away my age and make all the kids go "Huh.... what's a tube?" "EE.... you can't spell GEEK without it!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 What's a tube??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 14, 2001 Author Share Posted December 14, 2001 BH, Thanks, I will look for it. I'm an old school electronics tech too. I was trained on tubes. A friend of mine tells me that Checkmate can hard chrome alluminum. I have e-mailed them to confirm. If this is true, thats what I will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 I gave my Limited gun to my gunsmith with the instructions to hard chrome everything but the sights. He disassembled it and sent the parts to Checkmate. I recall a conversation about HCing aluminum being hit or miss. Anyway the gun's EGW aluminum mag well came back hard chromed. It has a mottled, uneven appearance compared to the steel parts. Sort of like after you spray brake cleaner on your roscoe and it dries, almost that kind of look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 Armoloy in Ft. Worth can put their hard-chrome process stuff on aluminum. Two things: there can't be any steel in with the aluminum, so no grip screw bushings or plunger tube on your frame. (They use two different processes, one for steel and one for alminum.) And since they don't have a gunsmith on site, the parts/frame have to be completely disassembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted December 15, 2001 Share Posted December 15, 2001 Hey bountyhunter, Electronics tech by trade currently working on radios, radars... Ham radio op currently not active, its too much like work. Wish i were an engineer, Just old,44. Had a 5 tube circuit on my Commercial FCC License Test, now i think most FCC examiners would also ask Whats a Tube. I did try anodizing several years ago, the Rit Dye route, didn't have any luck on my test pieces. Tell them their Picture Tube is a Vacuum Tube, most people are staring at one now. We ain't old, were Knowledgable. mike (Edited by GunRunner at 7:13 pm on Dec. 14, 2001) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3quartertime Posted December 27, 2001 Share Posted December 27, 2001 this is an older post so if its no good please discard,,, single stack,,,i'm an aviation type,,,we do lots of anodizing,,,black isn't a common color,,,( harder to inspect) but i could check on it,,, i am by no means an expert or anything like it,,,but i do have a bs in aircraft electrical systems and i have studied electrolosis as it relates to common alloys,,,ie...high strength aluminum and steel,,, if i can be of help let me know,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now