Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Silicon Carbide vs Stippling


greenthormx

Recommended Posts

I’m looking at adding some grip to my G34 and am considering my options.  I currently have a Talon grip but am looking at something more permanent.  Does the silicon carbide grip better than a good stipple?  Will silicon carbide hold up as well as a good stipple job?  Would love to hear from anybody that has used both, but extensive use either way would be beneficial.  I live in the South where it is hot and humid and will be using this gun for 3 Gun, Run N Gun, and maybe some USPSA Carry Optics.  Thank you for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

In the southeast, I’ve had talon... stipple... and silicon carbide. On the same gun, no less.

 

Go silicon carbide. It’s not even close to any kind of a contest.

 

thank you!
How long does the SC hold up and is it possible to “refresh” it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, greenthormx said:

 

thank you!
How long does the SC hold up and is it possible to “refresh” it?


It’s sand. It’s quite literally harder than steel.

 

I’ve never needed to refresh mine to restore grit. Just spend a good bit of time scrubbing skin and dirt out of the low pockets between the grits with an old toothbrush every year or two for maximum grip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2011 with a very aggressive stipple and it was good. I changed the grip and did a Silicon Carbide job on it and it is way better.

I have Talon grit tape on a M&P with 10k rounds and it holds up well. I had to change it once because I was sloppy with cleaning solvent and it softened the adhesive.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I prefer SC. You can choose the level of aggressiveness depending on how course of stuff you use. I’ve never felt stippling that’s come close. Not that I’ve tried every stipuled gun out there.  To me the stippling seems to lose some of its affect over time and if the gun or your hand is wet/sweaty. SC is stout!

 

 

 


 

 

Edited by B_RAD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:


It’s sand. It’s quite literally harder than steel.

 

I’ve never needed to refresh mine to restore grit. Just spend a good bit of time scrubbing skin and dirt out of the low pockets between the grits with an old toothbrush every year or two for maximum grip.

That is relieving to hear. I was worried I’d have to sand it off and reapply every couple of years.  Thank you for the advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It adds roughly 1/16” per side. The gun will grow a pinch over 1/8” if you just rough it up then slather it on.

 

I prefer to grind down into the frame then build it back up with black JB Weld and 60gr S/C from amazon.

 

60 has been more than enough texture for the sweatiest southern match day. It’d take the skin off you if you try to carry the gun IWB in a couple steps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

It adds roughly 1/16” per side. The gun will grow a pinch over 1/8” if you just rough it up then slather it on.

 

I prefer to grind down into the frame then build it back up with black JB Weld 

Guess it’s time to Black Friday a dremel and some more PMAGs to practice on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don’t be conservative with the roughing up / grinding down. The only way this process fails is if you don’t create enough tooth on the frame for the epoxy to stick to. Otherwise it is pretty idiot proof. ;) 
 

For places where I want to build up the dimensions, I just grind every trace of the current stipple-ish texture off, so that even the low spots have been hit with a sanding drum. As opposed to actually thinning the grip at that spot.

 

Carve into it, then acetone or brake cleaner to degrease, and handle it with latex gloves while masking / applying epoxy. Then pack silicon carbide into it. Pretty straightforward.

 

And do not use 5min epoxy. Slow cure is the name of the game here.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Don’t be conservative with the roughing up / grinding down. The only way this process fails is if you don’t create enough tooth on the frame for the epoxy to stick to. Otherwise it is pretty idiot proof. ;) 
 

For places where I want to build up the dimensions, I just grind every trace of the current stipple-ish texture off, so that even the low spots have been hit with a sanding drum. As opposed to actually thinning the grip at that spot.

 

Carve into it, then acetone or brake cleaner to degrease, and handle it with latex gloves while masking / applying epoxy. Then pack silicon carbide into it. Pretty straightforward.

 

And do not use 5min epoxy. Slow cure is the name of the game here.

Sage advice, sir.  Much appreciated.  Nothing to it but to do it.  Have a happy Thanksgiving!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, conditionone said:

 

I have Talon grit tape on a M&P with 10k rounds and it holds up well. I had to change it once because I was sloppy with cleaning solvent and it softened the adhesive.

 

Yeah, I’d prefer to not worry about the grip slip and just go with a more permanent solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...