jmtyndall Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Have a 9mm Kimber I bought for the wife and it seems to have some issues with extracting cases. I've tried several magazines and it seems to still have the issue. I looked up some ways to test extractor tension and I've found that even an empty case inserted into the slide behind the extractor falls out with literally 0 resistance. In fact it looks like there may be a couple thousandths clearance between the extractor and case rim. This seems to be a problem, but I'm no expert on 1911 pattern guns and most the extractor tests I was finding reference a 45 ACP. While we're at it, if you have any recommendations for who I could send the slide to to have this adjusted? Also, this gun seems to have a super short throat, so I'd prefer to send it to someone who could throat the chamber to fit longer COLs Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken6PPC Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 If it is new (and it sounds like it is...), send it back to Kimber! They will make it right for you. (Yeah, they should have the first time...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 It's actually not all that new. Couple years old but I thought it might break in with a few hundred rounds. Anyways, just started shooting it again and decided to start looking into the issues it was having.I could contact Kimber. Do you know if they will ream chambers longer?Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GringoBandito Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 23 minutes ago, jmtyndall said: It's actually not all that new. Couple years old but I thought it might break in with a few hundred rounds. Anyways, just started shooting it again and decided to start looking into the issues it was having. I could contact Kimber. Do you know if they will ream chambers longer? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk How long can you load with the barrel? Are you loading with lead bullets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 I can load xtreme bullets about 1.130" which isnt bad, but all my other guns accept 1.150" no problem. Switching to ACME 124gr coated is where I have my real concerns. Again my other guns all accept 1.150", but this kimber will only accept 1.050". Pushing a 1.150" round into the chamber shows 6 small marks where they hit the riflingSent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talon75 Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 This should help with getting the extractor tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMike Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10261 https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/action-frame-tools/extractor-tools/1911-extractor-tensioning-tool-prod16110.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve in Allentown PA Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) The Wilson video is good but I was very surprised when the guy said to take 5 to 7 thousands off the locator pad without explaining why this was the correct amount. In fact, there's no way to know the correct amount without measuring. What he's trying to achieve, without explaining it, is to get the correct amount of deflection for the extractor. Getting the geometry and the tension correct is a waste of time and energy unless the the deflection is first set correctly: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=829865 Also, you're working with a 9mm extractor not a .45 extractor. Many 9mm extractors are fit so that the edge of the claw is in contact with the case rather than the tensioning wall being in contact with the case rim. However, you still need to pay attention to geometry, deflection, and tension. Edited February 3, 2019 by Steve in Allentown PA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FF1063 Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 I have a new Kimber 9mm Target II with the same issue, no extractor tension at all. The firing pin stop on mine was also poorly fitted, loose in all dimensions, adding to the extractor issue. I fitted a new Ed Brown extractor and firing pin stop myself (I'm no gunsmith) by following directions I found on YouTube and the link above. Now my Kimber runs like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) FF1063, I'm new to this, but does the firing pin stop interact with the extractor in a way that affects case extraction? If that's the case maybe I'll pick up both parts, a set of needle files and try to figure it out instead of paying a smith. I just need to figure out if I need series 70 or series 80 parts Edited February 6, 2019 by jmtyndall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FF1063 Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 (edited) The firing pin stop (FPS) is what holds the extractor in position. If it is too loose it can allow the extractor to twist in its channel (clocking), causing feeding and/or extraction issues. That can be an issue even with a properly tensioned extractor. Modern Kimbers, anything with a 2 in the name like my Target II, has the Schwartz firing pin safety and requires an extractor cut for that, or you can remove the firing pin safety from the slide (it's under the rear sight). Mine is strictly a range/fun gun, so I removed the safety and spring. Then it will take any series 70 or 80 extractor. The FPS can be either 70 or 80, as long as it's 9mm/38 FPS. A small vice came in very handy, as did a cheap set of needle files. I bought blued parts even though my gun is stainless. Edited February 7, 2019 by FF1063 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 Looking at this last night I think the tension may be right. The hook touches the extractor groove and the extractor was hard to remove because the hook contacts the breech face during removal.What it looks like to me is maybe the extractor is too long because the hook doesn't contact the flat of the case rim as I believe it should. I've attached a picture.Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powder Finger Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 no it shouldn't 36 minutes ago, jmtyndall said: hook doesn't contact the flat of the case rim as I believe it should also the hook nose should not touch the case, the flat behind the hook should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 Are you saying I need to file the hook shorter (red line) such that the extractor touches the case only on the right side of the case rim(blue arrow)? I marked up the picture a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powder Finger Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 correct, guessing from the pic maybe only .005 removed. You don't want to go too far as you loose hook engagement then. at your blue arrow it looks like you can just see "light", that's about what you want except at the red line. on the gap you talked about ( back face of hook to face on base of case) you look ok, remember there has to be some clearance as the case is at an UP angle coming out of the mag and needs to get under the hook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 Understood, I'll go ahead and try working that area tonight with a file to see if I can get it to actually hold a case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 I went ahead and filed 0.005" off the hook of the extractor and it leaves me with about half a thou clearance to the extractor groove. Tried to tension the extractor but the little bump was too big. Took 3 thou off that and was finally able to get some extractor tension into the case rim!! Did the shake test with a loaded cartridge and it passes, fed 3 mags of dummy rounds just fine.Hoping to test fire this weekendSent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 Extraction seems improved. Still had 1 failure in 50 rounds but the brass was not left in the chamber, it was in the ejection port above the round trying to feed. Maybe I'll need to look into tuning the ejector next. Before that I'll try the test to see where the brass ejects to without a mag. The concrete floor at the indoor range is not conducive to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankmicro Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 I just purchased a Micro 9 stainless. Beautiful firearm, but first time out had 7 ejection failures in 105 rounds (5 Aquila 147 grain, no problem; 100 Remington 115 grain, 7 ejection failures.) The whole point of buying a premium USA manufactured firearm is to avoid this. I called Kimber, and Joe told me to try 124 grain or heavier next time and see if it doesn't work out. Uh, Ok. Is this really what we should be getting from one of America's premier manufacturers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now