LowSpeedHighDrag Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 I'd like to remove the barrel nut from one of my Taccom 9mm uppers for maintenance. Anybody got a clue as to the appropriate wrench to use? And should I apply heat first? Thanks. Link to comment
longbeard Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Something along these lines. You can find them on eBay cheaper. No heat required, but the ridges the wrench bite on roll very easily. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Barrel-Wrench-Tool-Armorers-Steel-Tool-Gunsmith-Rifle-Removal-Tactical-556-223-/132529070793Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment
L9X25 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 My wrench did not fit super tight on the Taccom nut, so I wrapped a layer of aluminum A/C tape over the nut first and it tightened the fit and reduced the damage to the nut. Link to comment
LowSpeedHighDrag Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Thanks for the responses, I'll give both of them a try. Link to comment
MemphisMechanic Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Personally I’d apply heat. It can’t hurt, and might just be a huge help if they loctited that fastener. Link to comment
LowSpeedHighDrag Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said: Personally I’d apply heat. It can’t hurt, and might just be a huge help if they loctited that fastener. Good point. Link to comment
MemphisMechanic Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) It turned out that I needed to heat my CMMG Guard’s barrel nut in order to install a brigand arms handguard & barrel nut. Gave it 5 straight minutes with a heat gun and then gave the wrench a *hard* sharp jerk. Broke free on the first attempt. Sure enough, the threads turned out to have green loctite on them. I discovered whether or not my barrel nut was loctited after removal - that’s always when you want to find out! Edited June 18, 2018 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment
1911luvr Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Something along these lines. You can find them on eBay cheaper. No heat required, but the ridges the wrench bite on roll very easily. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Barrel-Wrench-Tool-Armorers-Steel-Tool-Gunsmith-Rifle-Removal-Tactical-556-223-/132529070793Sent from my SM-N950U using TapatalkThat one will work fine as it has the little “fingers” needed to fit the nut. I have taken off a few already to ream the barrels, and I don’t remember loctite on any of them as they were easy to remove with the wrench and proper vise receiver adapter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
MemphisMechanic Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 @1911luvr the taccom barrel needs reamed? That’s surprising. Link to comment
1911luvr Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 [mention=57674]1911luvr[/mention] the taccom barrel needs reamed? That’s surprising. I’m not sure if this is still the case, but my team bought 6 last year and every one of them needed to be reamed to run longer loads or to run projectiles with an ogive like these: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
MemphisMechanic Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Huh. You’d think the competition-oriented taccom would have an extremely generous chamber. Link to comment
1911luvr Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Huh. You’d think the competition-oriented taccom would have an extremely generous chamber.Maybe they do now, but ours were purchased right after they started making them so I don’t know if they have addressed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
SCTaylor Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 21 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: Huh. You’d think the competition-oriented taccom would have an extremely generous chamber. That's hellaciously bulbous profile compared to most bullets on the market. Looks like an old 38/357 round nose lead mold. From what I've read, Taccom will chamber most anything we use. That's just the one odd-"ball". Link to comment
1911luvr Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 That's hellaciously bulbous profile compared to most bullets on the market. Looks like an old 38/357 round nose lead mold. From what I've read, Taccom will chamber most anything we use. That's just the one odd-"ball".There were several other loads, including my 115gr coated RN, that would stick as well. This one just so happens to be my control for chamber checking. It will chamber fine in a JP barrel and Wilson Arms barrel, but most others have issues. If you like loading long to match your open pistol load, you will likely have to ream it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
RaylanGivens Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 On 6/20/2018 at 9:13 PM, 1911luvr said: There were several other loads, including my 115gr coated RN, that would stick as well. This one just so happens to be my control for chamber checking. It will chamber fine in a JP barrel and Wilson Arms barrel, but most others have issues. If you like loading long to match your open pistol load, you will likely have to ream it. Which reamer did you use? Link to comment
1911luvr Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Which reamer did you use?After ruining a brand new Clymer throat reamer on one melonited barrel a few years ago, I stated having my own carbide reamers made. It cuts easier, faster and takes a lot longer to wear out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
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