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Removing Taccom 9mm barrel nut


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It turned out that I needed to heat my CMMG Guard’s barrel nut in order to install a brigand arms handguard & barrel nut.

 

Gave it 5 straight minutes with a heat gun and then gave the wrench a *hard* sharp jerk. Broke free on the first attempt. Sure enough, the threads turned out to have green loctite on them.

 

I discovered whether or not my barrel nut was loctited after removal - that’s always when you want to find out! :D 

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Something along these lines. You can find them on eBay cheaper. No heat required, but the ridges the wrench bite on roll very easily.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Barrel-Wrench-Tool-Armorers-Steel-Tool-Gunsmith-Rifle-Removal-Tactical-556-223-/132529070793

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That one will work fine as it has the little “fingers” needed to fit the nut. I have taken off a few already to ream the barrels, and I don’t remember loctite on any of them as they were easy to remove with the wrench and proper vise receiver adapter.


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[mention=57674]1911luvr[/mention] the taccom barrel needs reamed? That’s surprising.

 

I’m not sure if this is still the case, but my team bought 6 last year and every one of them needed to be reamed to run longer loads or to run projectiles with an ogive like these:

 

7c66669ba1e027bfceaa0c8e36a28226.jpg

 

 

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Huh. You’d think the competition-oriented taccom would have an extremely generous chamber.


Maybe they do now, but ours were purchased right after they started making them so I don’t know if they have addressed it.


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21 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Huh. You’d think the competition-oriented taccom would have an extremely generous chamber.

 

That's hellaciously bulbous profile compared to most bullets on the market. Looks like an old 38/357 round nose lead mold. From what I've read, Taccom will chamber most anything we use. That's just the one odd-"ball".

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That's hellaciously bulbous profile compared to most bullets on the market. Looks like an old 38/357 round nose lead mold. From what I've read, Taccom will chamber most anything we use. That's just the one odd-"ball".

There were several other loads, including my 115gr coated RN, that would stick as well. This one just so happens to be my control for chamber checking. It will chamber fine in a JP barrel and Wilson Arms barrel, but most others have issues. If you like loading long to match your open pistol load, you will likely have to ream it.


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On 6/20/2018 at 9:13 PM, 1911luvr said:

There were several other loads, including my 115gr coated RN, that would stick as well. This one just so happens to be my control for chamber checking. It will chamber fine in a JP barrel and Wilson Arms barrel, but most others have issues. If you like loading long to match your open pistol load, you will likely have to ream it.

 

Which reamer did you use?

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Which reamer did you use?

After ruining a brand new Clymer throat reamer on one melonited barrel a few years ago, I stated having my own carbide reamers made. It cuts easier, faster and takes a lot longer to wear out.


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