Tanfoglio Hunter in 10MM (Has anyone done any mods to theirs?

[Banacek]

Any good mods I should consider for my 10MM Tanfoglio Hunter?

[kneelingatlas]

[Ronemus]

EGW hammer and sear - much better trigger,light and crisp.

 

Henning firing pin

 

Stronger recoil spring (I had some custom made!); the factory springs are way too weak, so the pistol threw my brass 30+ feet and battered the slide.

 

Shorten ejector - also helps reduce the distance fired brass flies.

 

Omega grips fit my hands much better, and improve control of the pistol.

 

Tighten slide-to-frame and slide-to-barrel fit; improves consistency by removing play.

 

Grams magazine springs and followers so full capacity can be reliably used.

 

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by Ronemus

[Qbert]

14 hours ago, Ronemus said:

Tighten slide-to-frame and slide-to-barrel fit; improves consistency by removing play.

 

Which method(s) did you use to achieve this?

[Ronemus]

To get the lateral play out of the slide-frame fit, I gently squeezed the slide in a padded vise.  Take it slow and trial fit; getting ham-handed can crack the slide.  For the vertical, I used a center punch on the side of the frame rails to move the metal a bit; I did the front and rear on both sides, supporting the back side so the frame isn't bent..  If too much moved (unlikely - the surface is hard), it can be removed with a file. Be sure to use a file with flat sides when working in the slot.  For the amount I shoot, this has been durable, but may not hold for tens of thousands of rounds.  I have heard of using welded dots that are filed down to fit, but have no experience with the technique.

 

Tightening the barrel-slide fit is really easy - use a center punch on the front face face of the slide at ~5:00 and ~7:00 near the barrel opening; that will move a small amount of metal to remove the play.  If you overdo it, a fine diamond file or emery cloth over a dowel can be used to remove the excess.

 

These techniques worked because I was only taking out a few thousandths of play - the Hunter is a custom shop product so the fit is better than that of a regular production Witness.

[Qbert]

Interesting, thank you.

 

I take it I shouldn't try this with a hard chromed gun?  I have an old Stock 1 in 10mm that was fitted somewhat loosely.  The slide-frame could certainly use a little tightening, but what has always bugged me with this gun is it has the cone fit bull barrel, yet I can wiggle the barrel inside the slide hole easily when in lockup (kind of like how you can do it on a Beretta 92). Peening at the 5:00 & 7:00 method sounds like it could work for tightening up muzzle fit, but I'm hesitant to do it on a hardchrome gun.

[Ronemus]

It all depends on how your chrome plating was done.  Chrome can be plate directly on steel, but it doesn't adhere very well.  Durability can be improved by plating copper and nickel underneath the chrome, but you can't tell by looking at it which technique was used.  The chrome thickness also matters because a thick layer is more brittle than a thin one.   You can consult the company that did the plating, or if that's not possible you might try it first on a hidden area.

[Ronemus]

On 4/20/2018 at 12:16 AM, Qbert said:

Interesting, thank you.

 

I take it I shouldn't try this with a hard chromed gun?  I have an old Stock 1 in 10mm that was fitted somewhat loosely.  The slide-frame could certainly use a little tightening, but what has always bugged me with this gun is it has the cone fit bull barrel, yet I can wiggle the barrel inside the slide hole easily when in lockup (kind of like how you can do it on a Beretta 92). Peening at the 5:00 & 7:00 method sounds like it could work for tightening up muzzle fit, but I'm hesitant to do it on a hardchrome gun.

 

It all depends on how your chrome plating was done.  Chrome can be plated directly on steel, but it doesn't adhere very well.  Durability can be improved by plating copper and nickel underneath the chrome, but you can't tell by looking at it which technique was used.  The chrome thickness also matters because a thick layer is more brittle than a thin one.   You can consult the company that did the plating, or if that's not possible you might try it first on a hidden area.

Edited April 22, 2018 by Ronemus

[Qbert]

The gun in question was factory chrome plated by Tanfoglio or whoever they used.  But good idea on trying it on a hidden spot.

[Bill Schwab]

I won a Witness Hunter 10mm on Gunbroker with a Robar finish and was wondering what weight recoil and hammer springs you guys are using? I was thinking of placing a Wolff order for 18-22 lb recoil springs, 16-17 lb hammer springs, and extractor springs. Plan to shoot factory power 10mm loads. Appreciate any help. 

[nydde]

On 4/19/2018 at 1:03 AM, kneelingatlas said:

Sweet gun! What rear sight is that? Kind of looks like the Tactical Sport CZ

[SCTaylor]

It looks like the fixed sight on the new Stock 1's.

[nydde]

Nah, the new stock 1 uses the old alu sight?

 

 

[kneelingatlas]

4 hours ago, nydde said:

Sweet gun! What rear sight is that? Kind of looks like the Tactical Sport CZ

 

It is

[nydde]

Thanks