Qbert

Sorry, for some reason I never got notifications from this thread and forgot about it. Here goes:

I have the actual first edition manual from 1998. The test gun was a Smith 686 6" and used WSP with their 125gr TC. It has loads for HP38, N100, W231, Titegroup, AA2, Bullseye, Unique, Red Dot, and 700x. Minimum OAL of 1.450". Which load(s) would you like to see?

So if I have the slide of my hand-fitted 1911 nitrided after being direct milled for a red dot, will the slide to frame fit (which is currently a perfect, no-movement smooth and tight fit) be affected in a negative way? Like will the fit be too tight so it binds or loosen up? I'm in AZ, so I'm sure my gunsmith will be using H&M.

Which spring did you replace and which spring did you replace it with? That's great news!

Hahaha, I could totally envision that perfectly in my mind. Wait, was your story a repressed memory of my own experience?!

Thanks, HC

It is as reliable as any other quality semi auto pistol on the market. I'm not very fond of the grip texture, but the gun sure shoots nice and flat. If mine was optic ready and had larger-capacity mags, I'd compete with it in a heartbeat. It's close to Glock 17 size, so not the most conceal-friendly pistola, but it will serve you well. Replacement parts may be an issue.

How did it fit/stick out at the bottom of the grip?

Why would the 40 spring be 2lbs less force than the 9mm and 10mm?

I really like my Q4SF also. Extremely nice shooting pistola, especially with a red dot and the Competition trigger spring by Sprinco (sold by Stoeger Pro Shop.

What's wrong with the stock striker?

I have a 4" SF and it is one of the most mechanically precise-shooting pistols I've ever owned, even though it isn't built very tight (especially the slide to frame fit). It balances well and the trigger is good, although shamefully not as good as a box-stock Canik's trigger. C'mon Walther....the stupid Canik is a flippin' Turk COPY, and they outdo your venerable company in trigger qualities? I haven't competed with it, but with a Holosun 507C on top, it really shoots nice and I can see it being a competitive platform.

My experience is not the same as Lee Blackman's. I think it has a nice recoil impulse and shoots flat. That said, the trigger isn't as nice as I had hoped for (but doesn't seem to hurt me too much when hosing), I don't care for the grip texture, and it DOES seem a bit over-sprung. Mine was made in 2019 with a Hungarian slide.

What Farmer said.

In 1998 when I got my first Witness, I read it wrong and so I've always called it the "Mighty TANG-FOE!!!!" Always emphatically and while holding it up like Excaliber freshly pulled out of the stone.

Thanks. Did you have them re-coat the milled area or leave it raw?

Looks great! How much did it cost, if you don't mind me asking?

I just talked to Zach at Walther and he told me that now only the match and target pistols will come with test targets.

A guy told me that his Q5 SF Match and Q4 SF didn't come with test targets. I thought all Walther pistols came with test targets?

Following this thread because I also have a Kimber Custom Classic from 1998 that has a rear sight that won't move. Trust me, Thor's hammer couldn't budge this thing. It must have been forged from the MIM hinge pins from hell's gate.

Jagerwerks has a vested interest in re-coating the slide. They left out a lot of information about that slide. But thanks for sharing that info. Fortunately I live in the driest place in the country and I don't sweat a ton.

So I acquired a Glock slide that was milled for an RMR and it was never re-coated. I want to start carrying the G19 with this slide, but am a little concerned about rust under the optic.I don't care about aesthetics for the most part. Can I just spray the raw area with Aluma-Hyde II (or something else you guys recommend)? I'd rather not pay $80 to have my whole slide refinished and wait several weeks as well. I do like doing things right, but if a little spray-and-bake on the affected area will do the trick, I'm all about that.

Thanks, jubi! You're the man!!! Have you found this setup to be comparable to the Redding Comp Seater (if you have used both)?

Thanks, jubi...You don't need the lock collar and spacer? What are those for if they are unnecessary?