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TS Grip Modification


robert.a.brewer.

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I've removed the waffle checkering with a dremel sanding disk and then switched to a file so I didn't get myself into trouble. I also used the dremel (large drum) for the beavertail and trigger guard undercut. I polished with strips of belt sander paper. Then I did some hand checkering on the rear. Coated in IonBond DLC. 
 
001.thumb.JPG.901b054ec09c4cb8bfe75cc21473c147.JPG5a7449953fb82_czts_034.thumb.JPG.0d25ededc8d3526ced9f31ed793c4298.JPG
Husker,

Your hand checkering is professional grade.

I did not even know that was possible How do you do it?

-Rob
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57 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:

 

Yes, think of it like a cheese grater ?

swiss cheese is expensive.;)

what name suit   for this gun work?

it was sight tracker now it's sight   f...r :lol: 20180107_171403.jpg

Edited by yigal
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11 hours ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

Husker,

Your hand checkering is professional grade.

I did not even know that was possible How do you do it?

-Rob

Thanks, a checkering file from https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx

is all you need.....and a lot of time. I couldn't do it now with my small children. :lol:

Actually, I practiced on some round steel bar first. I got the motion down and then just did it. The CZ frame is heat treated investment cast steel, so it's pretty damn hard. You start a line and then push. I used the zip ties to make sure I didn't slip into the wrong area. The ideal way would be to make a jig. There are probably some youtube videos out there with instructions.

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Thanks, a checkering file from https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx
is all you need.....and a lot of time. I couldn't do it now with my small children. [emoji38]
Actually, I practiced on some round steel bar first. I got the motion down and then just did it. The CZ frame is heat treated investment cast steel, so it's pretty damn hard. You start a line and then push. I used the zip ties to make sure I didn't slip into the wrong area. The ideal way would be to make a jig. There are probably some youtube videos out there with instructions.
Now that's dedication.
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I've removed the waffle checkering with a dremel sanding disk and then switched to a file so I didn't get myself into trouble. I also used the dremel (large drum) for the beavertail and trigger guard undercut. I polished with strips of belt sander paper. Then I did some hand checkering on the rear. Coated in IonBond DLC. 
 
001.thumb.JPG.901b054ec09c4cb8bfe75cc21473c147.JPG5a7449953fb82_czts_034.thumb.JPG.0d25ededc8d3526ced9f31ed793c4298.JPG
Wow, beautiful checkering job!!!! How many LPI is that?
Would be awesome if you post a pic of the final result after coating.

Again, great job!!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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59 minutes ago, CzViper said:

Wow, beautiful checkering job!!!! How many LPI is that?
Would be awesome if you post a pic of the final result after coating.

Again, great job!!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

20 lines per inch 5a78e50a8d057_czts_022.thumb.JPG.e9a063d805f5620900c3e8d43863e8c9.JPG

czts_ 031.JPG

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On 2/5/2018 at 6:17 PM, CzViper said:

Awesome! I see you cut your frame dust cover and made lightning cuts also among other things. Are you shooting 40 or 9?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

This is a 40S&W but I have a 9mm conversion barrel (doesn't get used though).

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The original grip size suited me fine so initially I glued some aluminum oxide sand to the front and backstraps with expoxy adhesive. Nowadays I use Lok G10 grips and just use the original texture of the front and rear.

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Thanks, a checkering file from https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx
is all you need.....and a lot of time. I couldn't do it now with my small children. [emoji38]
Actually, I practiced on some round steel bar first. I got the motion down and then just did it. The CZ frame is heat treated investment cast steel, so it's pretty damn hard. You start a line and then push. I used the zip ties to make sure I didn't slip into the wrong area. The ideal way would be to make a jig. There are probably some youtube videos out there with instructions.
I watched this video and thought, Hey, maybe I CAN do this.


No small children, so....
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On 2/15/2018 at 8:19 PM, robert.a.brewer. said:

I watched this video and thought, Hey, maybe I CAN do this.

 


No small children, so....

 

Notice on this video he has a jig/guide for his vertical lines. If you have some vice grips with flat pads you can get a piece of flat stock on there and make it work without a dedicated jig like he has.

I should have done a modification of the undercut like him as well to have them come out cleaner.
I'm sure you can do it.

 

 

Edited by huskerlrrp
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Watching hand checkering makes me wonder if I could just hand file the existing waffle pattern into sharper pyramids.

One guy cut every other line resulting in a 10 LPI very aggressive pattern. I see 60 and 90 degree files used for deepening and sharpening.

I am continuously amazed by modern gunsmithing methods and tools. Gotta like new tools, lol.

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I still can't believe people can do that by  hand. It looks so simple, but I'd be so scared of messing up a row.

And a messed up row becomes very visible on the overall pattern. Like lint on a herringbone pattern jacket.

 

I'd be interested in what jig Atlas finds that fits a CZ frame.

 

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45 minutes ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

I still can't believe people can do that by  hand. It looks so simple, but I'd be so scared of messing up a row.

many pro. gunsmiths done this all the time. make it perfect  it's very hard   work.

i done this to all my old guns. including cz 75 from 1986.

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1 hour ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

When finished, how preserve and protect the bare metal so will not rust?

Recommendations?

i send frame to electroless  nickel  coat . i carry this gun  on me  from 1986 with no rust.

but i think that hard chrome  is better.

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