Tanfoglio Hunter in 10MM

[Banacek]

I bought a Tanfoglio Hunter in 10MM to replace my Glock 22 and I love the gun.  Has anyone done any great mods that they would like to pass on?  Has anyone shot .40 cal in the 10MM barrel?  I have heard about people doing this but I have not done any research in this area.  

[arkadi]

I shoot .40 in 10mm Stock II a little. So far so good. POI is effectively the same.

[johnbu]

Look up Memphismechanic's 4 part videos on what and how to polish. Some won't appy to SA only, but most will.  You shouldn't change springs as there won't be much change in SA and you need more whack to light off the harder primers.

 

Plan on repeating the polishing a couple / few times. It always seems parts are missed the first go round. It will make the trigger very nice.

[Endall]

I bought a set of target grips for a CZ97 and fit to two of my guns. A Witness and an Elite Match. 

  These really fit my hands well. I have a conversion slide for the Match to 10MM. Shot a maybe 700 rounds. The big target grips seemed help with recoil. But that may be wishful thinking. 

[Ronemus]

A very strong recoil spring and a shock buffer are needed to prevent battering the stock and to tame ejection; I had custom springs made by Master Carr.  It makes racking the slide more of a challenge, but puts my brass 8-10 feet away instead of 30+ feet with the springs that came with the pistol. Shortening the ejector pin helps as well.

 

I have large hands (XL gloves) and wanted grip panels that fill my hand better.  I really like CZGrips, and the exotic woods are real eye candy.

 

Putting in a sear and hammer from EGW makes the trigger really nice - crisp with no creep.

 

10 mm and .40 both headspace off the case mouth, so shooting .40 in a 10 mm may be unreliable; the case may move far enough front that the firing pin can't reach the primer.  The .40 only works because the extractor holds the case against the bolt face (usually).  I certainly wouldn't use .40 for personal defense or competition.  It's unlikely to cause damage, but could be a PITA if a case gets jammed into the barrel - could be very hard to get out.

Edited December 9, 2017 by Ronemus

[Banacek]

47 minutes ago, Ronemus said:

A very strong recoil spring and a shock buffer are needed to prevent battering the stock and to tame ejection; I had custom springs made by Master Carr.  It makes racking the slide more of a challenge, but puts my brass 8-10 feet away instead of 30+ feet with the springs that came with the pistol. Shortening the ejector pin helps as well.

 

I have large hands (XL gloves) and wanted grip panels that fill my hand better.  I really like CZGrips, and the exotic woods are real eye candy.

 

Putting in a sear and hammers from EGW makes the trigger really nice - crisp with no creep.

 

10 mm and .40 both headspace off the case mouth, so shooting .40 in a 10 mm may be unreliable; the case may move far enough front that the firing pin can't reach the primer.  The .40 only works because the extractor holds the case against the bolt face (usually).  I certainly wouldn't use .40 for personal defense or competition.  It's unlikely to cause damage, but could be a PITA if a case gets jammed into the barrel - could be very hard to get out.

Thanks for the info.  Can you provide details regarding the Master Carr springs, google did not find anything.  I was shooting with a friend and we were both like "Where did the brass go?"  This is not a competition gun for me, so I will wait until I polish the insides before getting the hammer and sear.  Have you measured the trigger pull?  Shooting .40 will not come up often, I just wanted to know if what I had heard was not BS before trying it out myself.  

[Ronemus]

56 minutes ago, Banacek said:

Thanks for the info.  Can you provide details regarding the Master Carr springs, google did not find anything.  I was shooting with a friend and we were both like "Where did the brass go?"  This is not a competition gun for me, so I will wait until I polish the insides before getting the hammer and sear.  Have you measured the trigger pull?  Shooting .40 will not come up often, I just wanted to know if what I had heard was not BS before trying it out myself.  

 

 

I had springs made as follows (custom, not a catalog item):

 

CUSTOM-MADE COMPRESSION SPRING .055" MUSIC WIRE, .39" OD, 5" LENGTH, CLOSED AND GROUND, 6 TURNS PER INCH

IIRC, I had to shorten them by a turn or two so the slide could recoil fully.  Any number of places could make the spring, but McMaster-Carr  was the only one I had any experience with.  Three springs cost me $150, but because I reload it was worth it to be able to find my brass.

 

My trigger pull (SA only) is ~2 lb; I also installed reduced-power springs to get it that light.  I'm used to light triggers on my rifles, so the heavy pull wasn't comfortable.

[cas]

There used to be plenty of photos online of blown out primers and hammered case heads from shooting 40 in a 10.  I suppose a lot depends on your gun itself and how tight your extractor holds it to the breach face.  From what I've seen it's not something I'd want to do it I didn't have to.

[ATLDave]

DK about the Hunter specifically, but have run 10mm Tanfo Match and Limited guns (all SA like the Hunter).  The Henning cone-fit guiderod is something I have put in, which is supposed to help with the frame/slide battering issue (I'm not sure it's actually an issue with the current generation of guns, but just in case...).  I have not found anything more dramatic, such as shock buffs or whatever the Master Carr business is, to be necessary. 

 

You will likely experience vigorous ejection, but that's due more to the very long ejector on Tanfo's (has to work with short cartidges, like 9mm, since the lower is universal for all calibers) than to excessive slide velocity.  If you start chasing modest ejection with spring rates, you may well end up with a gun that isn't reliable or is only reliably with nuclear loads.  

 

You may eventually decide that you want to drop in a Henning flat trigger.  Not so much because the trigger is dramatically better to shoot (I think it's better, but not hugely so), but because it makes disassembly and reassembly dramatically easier than the factory SA trigger.  

 

I also like the smaller fiber dot of the Henning front sight better than the gigantic fat rod of the factory sight.  That's 100% personal preference, though.  

[Ronemus]

The guide rod and spring in the 6" Hunter is different than those used in the models with shorter barrels.  I haven't heard of Henning making a cone-fit guide rod for the 6" pistols.  The "vigorous" ejection with full-power 10 mm ammo put a lot of stress on the pistol, and it shoots better with the modifications.  If you want a universal lower, then don't modify the ejector.  On the other hand, if you reload and want to find your brass the modification makes life a lot easier.

[01Deuce]

Wolff 20lb recoil spring 

Wolff 18lb hammer spring

EGW Flat bottom firing pin stop

 Dawson fo sight 

 

I have also done 20lb on the hammer spring and 18lb on the recoil spring on a SA model (It won't effect trigger weight) 

But bad idea on a DA gun as the DA pull is way to heavy. 

  And the only guide rod I have ever  seen for the 6 inch guns is the factory piece. My gold match extreme has the same as the Hunter. 

[johnbu]

2 hours ago, ATLDave said:

You may eventually decide that you want to drop in a Henning flat trigger.  Not so much because the trigger is dramatically better to shoot (I think it's better, but not hugely so), but because it makes disassembly and reassembly dramatically easier than the factory SA trigger.  

 

You can gain the same easy assembly with a CGW  "canik" trigger pin.  It's is a slip fit and held in place with a groove that the spring goes into.  It's MUCH less expensive than changing the trigger!

[Banacek]

Thanks for all the information, much appreciated.  I will start with some of the simple mods and see where that takes me, I do reload and want to find the brass since that stuff is not cheap.  I am not too concerned about a universal lower but will try some of the other mods before changing the ejector.

[ATLDave]

The point isn't that you should be concerned about the universal lower, just that the ejector is very long (because it's designed to eject 9mm and other short-action rounds).  For a long action round like the 10mm, that means it applies quite a bit of force to the case.  It's going to launch cases with full-powered ammo a LONG way.  A lot of people give themselves problems over-springing 10mm tanfo's while chasing some kind of drop-at-your-feet ejection.  That's generally tough to do without reprofiling the ejector itself.  

[Intercooler2]

I did a write-up on my Hunter tear-down today.

 

http://10mm-firearms.com/10mm-semi-auto-handguns/hunter-(super-match)-dissection-with-ejector-cut-photo-(photo-heavy)/msg71703/#new

 

I kind of wonder about how many rounds people get before the slide locking lug cuts wear out (new slide needed)?

 

[johnbu]

9 hours ago, Intercooler2 said:

 

I kind of wonder about how many rounds people get before the slide locking lug cuts wear out (new slide needed)?

 

 

I am over 25k shooting 9mm minor and it looks very similar to your gun.

 

If the barrel was fit well, they seem to go a VERY high round count. So no need to be concerned.

[blfuller]

Definitely upgrade the springs if you will be shooting stout loads.  Do the trigger job too.