320 Grip Job with slilicium carbide - good to go for Production?

[BC27]

Just now, Sig0431 said:

 

I am placing a order now for 1 lb of 60/90, 36 and 46/70. If you have not placed an order by the time I get it I will take some pictures next to grip tape I have and let you know what I think.

 

Sounds good!  Please share your results too.  Which adhesive did you decide on?

[Sig0431]

12 minutes ago, BC27 said:

 

Sounds good!  Please share your results too.  Which adhesive did you decide on?

Havent gotten that far into my research yet but that is next!

[alma]

3 hours ago, BC27 said:

 

Thank you!  I'll probably get the 36 and 46-70.  

These are the two I use over a few days hundred P320 grip jobs. I describe the 46/70 as aggressive and the 36 grit as super aggressive. 6350 locks your hands in very well, to the point that it's hard to shift your grip once acquired. 46/70 is a good compromise. On my own I do 36 on the left side and 46/70 everywhere else. 

http://therockshed.com/crushedrock1.html

Edited July 21, 2017 by alma

[BC27]

8 minutes ago, alma said:

These are the two I use over a few days hundred P320 grip jobs. I describe the 46/70 as aggressive and the 36 grit associated super aggressive. 6350 locks your hands in very well, to the point that it's hard to shift your grip once acquired. 46/70 is a good compromise. On my own I do 36 on the left side and 46/70 everywhere else. 

http://therockshed.com/crushedrock1.html

 

Thank you Alma.  Sounds like 46-70 is what I would likely prefer.

 

[mloch]

As to the question which adhesive I have used ... I just use J-B weld .. works the best (in my experience)

[BC27]

7 hours ago, mloch said:

As to the question which adhesive I have used ... I just use J-B weld .. works the best (in my experience)

 

Thank you, that's probably the route I'll go with as well.

[Sig0431]

19 hours ago, alma said:

These are the two I use over a few days hundred P320 grip jobs. I describe the 46/70 as aggressive and the 36 grit as super aggressive. 6350 locks your hands in very well, to the point that it's hard to shift your grip once acquired. 46/70 is a good compromise. On my own I do 36 on the left side and 46/70 everywhere else. 

http://therockshed.com/crushedrock1.html

 

Really like that idea of using different grits on certain areas where you need more or less. One issue that I have is that my pinky finger lays over my SP magwell. I do not think I can make a large enough trigger undercut to lift my hand so I may also think about putting a like of grip around the top of the magwell.

 

Alma I have seen that you have done the undercut and from some images your results come out real smooth looking. do you have any write ups on that?

[Sig0431]

9 hours ago, mloch said:

As to the question which adhesive I have used ... I just use J-B weld .. works the best (in my experience)

 

J-B weld is the trend I have seen as well. I have also been told to consider the following http://www.bsi-inc.com/hardware/mid_cure.html which can be found on amazon for $7.99. I like that this is clear and seems to be a little easier to work with from what I have seen compared to JB weld. They also have a 30 min version but I don't see why 15 min would not be more than enough time.

 

Lastly I was also told to use a small foam brush as it is easier to apply a consistent coat compared to a regular paint brush. https://www.amazon.com/Cornell-842-25-Piece-Brush-1-Inch/dp/B000W5IACS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500662775&sr=8-3&keywords=foam+brush

[JAFO]

3 hours ago, Sig0431 said:

 

Really like that idea of using different grits on certain areas where you need more or less. One issue that I have is that my pinky finger lays over my SP magwell. I do not think I can make a large enough trigger undercut to lift my hand so I may also think about putting a like of grip around the top of the magwell.

 

Alma I have seen that you have done the undercut and from some images your results come out real smooth looking. do you have any write ups on that?

 

Keep in mind that undercutting the trigger guard will put you out of Production.

[Sig0431]

7 minutes ago, JAFO said:

 

Keep in mind that undercutting the trigger guard will put you out of Production.

 

I shoot Limited.

[alma]

I use Loctite Marine epoxy with some black colorant mixed in to make it gray. 

The set time for that is quite a bit longer so it gives you lots of work time. I brush it on with a paintbrush. I suspect it is goes on thinner and smoother than JB weld but I haven't compared directly. 

On the undercut, I will usually start with a Dremel but I then move to sandpaper wrapped around the thick Sharpie. Do like 200 grit I'm incremental to 1000 or so depending on what type of polymer you are working with. 

[Sig0431]

On ‎7‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 7:23 PM, alma said:

I use Loctite Marine epoxy with some black colorant mixed in to make it gray. 

The set time for that is quite a bit longer so it gives you lots of work time. I brush it on with a paintbrush. I suspect it is goes on thinner and smoother than JB weld but I haven't compared directly. 

On the undercut, I will usually start with a Dremel but I then move to sandpaper wrapped around the thick Sharpie. Do like 200 grit I'm incremental to 1000 or so depending on what type of polymer you are working with. 

 

Thanks for the input on the undercut. I have done this on my Glock 19 but have been hesitant with the P320 as there seems to be very little material in that area but I will take out the mag release and take some measurements.

[BC27]

Just finished my grit job. I used the 46/70 grit and JB Weld.  Took a couple hours carefully removing the molded stippling and shaving down the transition areas so that it's flush with the rest of the grip.  I'm really happy with the way it turned out and the diameter is no larger than stock (grit is flush with the grip). It's not fully cured so I haven't tried it out yet but I think it will be great.

[Sig0431]

13 hours ago, BC27 said:

Just finished my grit job. I used the 46/70 grit and JB Weld.  Took a couple hours carefully removing the molded stippling and shaving down the transition areas so that it's flush with the rest of the grip.  I'm really happy with the way it turned out and the diameter is no larger than stock (grit is flush with the grip). It's not fully cured so I haven't tried it out yet but I think it will be great.

 

Nice job! Came out looking great. I received my package with the grits the other day so this weekend I will get started. Anything you learned during this process? What type of brush did you use?

 

Also if someone does not mind, can you measure the diameter of the Sig logo that is on the grip? I am looking to get a custom medallion made to place on the grip like Alama has done before but don't want to order one too large or small.

[Sig0431]

@BC27 also what did you use to create the transition line to ensure a even depth?

[BC27]

8 hours ago, Sig0431 said:

 

Nice job! Came out looking great. I received my package with the grits the other day so this weekend I will get started. Anything you learned during this process? What type of brush did you use?

 

Also if someone does not mind, can you measure the diameter of the Sig logo that is on the grip? I am looking to get a custom medallion made to place on the grip like Alama has done before but don't want to order one too large or small.

 

Thank you.  I used a fairly firm short brush that I got at a craft store.  I chose this type of brush because I wanted a thin coat of JB Weld and it worked perfectly.  If the brush is too soft, it would be very difficult to apply a thin layer.  This way, there isn't much excess and the grit lays much more even and smooth (not wavy or clumpy).

 

I used a sharpie to outline the areas I wanted to expand the grit to as this helps visualize what it will look like.  I then used a dremmel with a cutting bit to scribe the sharpie lines.  I went the same depth of the molded stipple pockets and used a file to clean up the lines.  Then I shaved the molded stippling off and then blended the expanded areas with the dremmel tool. A sanding drum worked well for this.  The most time consuming part was shaving around the Sig logo because I wanted to keep it intact.  I used various dremmel bits, various files etc.  I plan to paint the logo so that the recessed part is red and the raised part is black. BTW, the logo is 11mm.

 

After you're happy with all that, I washed the grip to get rid of any plastic dust as well as any oil your hands may leave.  Once dry, you can mask the areas you don't want to grit and you're ready to apply the JB Weld.

 

Take your time, it's very easy.  The sanding/shaving is just time consuming if you want it to look nice.

[Shrek1]

When do you pull the tape off?


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[Shrek1]

Just finished my grit job. I used the 46/70 grit and JB Weld.  Took a couple hours carefully removing the molded stippling and shaving down the transition areas so that it's flush with the rest of the grip.  I'm really happy with the way it turned out and the diameter is no larger than stock (grit is flush with the grip). It's not fully cured so I haven't tried it out yet but I think it will be great.

That looks awesome, how did you manage your edges? I struggled getting really clean edges.


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[mloch]

@Shrek1 I pull off the tape after about 2 hours and correct the outlines (if neccessary).

[sfinney]

I use either JB Weld or slower set Epoxy (not 5 minute version) and usually pull the tape after about an hour before it sets up and is still tacky. As mentioned before, you can then still work with the lines etc to smooth up or reapply more glue and fix any errors.

Edited September 17, 2017 by sfinney

[Shrek1]

[mention=64670]Shrek1[/mention] I pull off the tape after about 2 hours and correct the outlines (if neccessary).

Thanks

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