NWfront Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 On 4/26/2017 at 11:45 AM, 1eyedfatman said: I've been working on my Lim Pro to get the hammer strike up and the DA/SA trigger pull down. I'll note changes: - 14# PD hammer spring - Tanfo solid hammer - PD Bolo - Bic plunger spring (changed from this: TANFOGLIO TRIGGER PLUNGER SPRING 18# KIT (2) [H037-18-2]) - PD optimized firing pin and spring - Polished several things including the trigger bar - Long Slide Recoil Spring (8lb) - Tanfoglio Optimized Trigger Return Spring - Reduced Power - Tanfoglio Optimized Sear Spring – Reduced Power Could the Bic plunger spring cause the trigger bar to not get a consistent positive reset into position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 I will try replacing the Bic plunger spring. I replaced the Bolo with the original interruptor but that did not help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 I read that wrong. I thought you swapped out the bic spring the Henning parts. I'd definitely take that out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 I went all out... - Replaced the Bic trigger plunger string with the regular one. - Put back in the Bolo. - Although polishing is probably not the issue here, while I had it dissembled anyways... . Polished up the plunger bar and its cap. . Polished up more the trigger bar where it contacts the plunger bar cap and bolo. . Sanded the Bolo a little more to make sure no ruff spots and polished it where it contacts the trigger bar. . Polished up the sides of the trigger where it sits in the frame. Put it back together and back right where I started. Weak SA pencil test after racking the slide. But DA or SA with no rack but just a pulled back trigger blasts out the pencil. The weak one goes about 1/3 the distance. I was hoping to shoot this thing in a sanctioned USPSA match this weekend, but it looks like it may be old faithful G34 again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 well it's obviously the firing pin block. And most people go with the extended one and then fit that (usually after replacing the hammer also). I never had to file mine. 600 grit sandpaper was all it needed. The difference between working and not working was like 5 thousandths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 When I went to the XFPB I needed no fitting.It's a cheap part that should fix your issueSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 On 5/4/2017 at 2:24 AM, IronArcher said: When I went to the XFPB I needed no fitting. It's a cheap part that should fix your issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Thank you everyone that chimed in on this thread. I received a XFPB today from Patriot Defense and after installing it, the problem is gone. The racked single action strike is strong every time!!! My DA trigger is currently at 7 lbs and SA is 4 3/4. Now that I have a solid trigger strike in all modes, I'm thinking about... - Replacing the Patriot Defense 14 lbs hammer spring with a 13 lbs spring. - Put back the Bic trigger plunger spring (that lowered my trigger pull before and I took it out to troubleshoot this prob) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 My suggestion, based on what I have learned from the more experienced dudes here:Polish everything firstRun it for a while, and look for parts rubbing... repolish those parts.The 13# spring... with a good polish on the hammer/frame/hammer spring guide/hammer spring, should be plenty.... and drop you down to around #2 SA pull.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Don't use the bic spring dude. Everyone said not to use it and of course I tried it because I had to know. You will eventually get a dead trigger that will not reset. If you want a lighter one, use a CGW CZ firing pin spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 I haven't put the BIC back in although I know someone that hasn't had an issue with one in their Stock II after 20k rounds. I did put in the 12 lbs spring (after I polished it) and that got my DA down to 6 and SA to 3.5. The pencil test still looked solid with that and remember, I put in the solid hammer which has some mass to it. That's a much better feeling trigger than the 13 lbs spring at 7+/4.75. I'll test it and see if I get any lite strikes. Hopefully it will be reliable with Winchester primers and competition factory ammo. I'll check into the CGW CZ firing pin spring for a trigger plunger spring...a little liter may be an easy way to drop that trigger weight a little more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 The solid hammer has hooks (the part that the sear interfaces) that are sky high. Buy a titan, polish the hooks SLIGHTLY. Sa will plummet. with the EG medium i was still under 2# sa. With the better PD 15.5, it's 1#10oz. Da is 5 # 10oz. If you are brave and skilled, the solid hammer can be modified to shorten hooks. But its really best done by a pro as many bad things can go wrong. cost of a pro doing that will be close to just buying the titan hammer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) 8 hours ago, johnbu said: The solid hammer has hooks (the part that the sear interfaces) that are sky high. Buy a titan, polish the hooks SLIGHTLY. Sa will plummet. with the EG medium i was still under 2# sa. With the better PD 15.5, it's 1#10oz. Da is 5 # 10oz. If you are brave and skilled, the solid hammer can be modified to shorten hooks. But its really best done by a pro as many bad things can go wrong. cost of a pro doing that will be close to just buying the titan hammer! I can't use the Titan hammer because I need to be SSP legal. The profile of the solid hammer looked very similar to the Lim Pro stock hammer. What's a high hook (I think I know what you mean by that, but can you be more specific?) going to do to the performance? One thing I noticed after installing the solid hammer (and now that the SA pencil test is fixed), on SA, I sometimes go to half-cocked on the initial trigger pull. I had already filed the heck out of my Bolo with my Lim Pro stock hammer, but it looks like for the solid hammer, I will need to take a little more off the inside curve of the Bolo and polish it up again. Edited May 9, 2017 by 1eyedfatman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) @1eyedfatman the shallower the notch which forms the single-action hammer hooks, the less work your trigger pull is going to have to do in order to lift the sear out of the hooks and fire the shot. Left arrow: single action hammer hooks Right arrow: half-cock notch Edited May 9, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 What would be the implications on a competition only hammer (solid hammer) grind down of the half-cock notch. Mine is sometimes catching now with the Bolo and solid hammer during SA and I was going to file down the Bolo inside curve more, but what about filing down the half-cock notch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTaylor Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 before you destroy something, try turning the over-travel screw out on the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 6 minutes ago, SCTaylor said: before you destroy something, try turning the over-travel screw out on the trigger. No over-travel screw on my stock trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 File down the 1/2 cock notch. No real downside. You just need to lower it, not eliminate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWfront Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 On 5/8/2017 at 5:41 PM, waktasz said: Don't use the bic spring dude. Everyone said not to use it and of course I tried it because I had to know. You will eventually get a dead trigger that will not reset. If you want a lighter one, use a CGW CZ firing pin spring. I ordered a CGW CZ firing pin spring and the OD is to large to fit into the frame. Did I receive the wrong spring or do you mean a CGW firing pin block spring? For now I ended up just clipping 2 coils off the stock spring. That seems to have made the difference I was looking for while retaining a positive reset so I may just stick with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Nope, firing pin spring. This one https://cajungunworks.com/product/rp-fps-reduced-power-firing-pin-spring/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWfront Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the link. Looks like the one I ordered from BSPS states that it will fit all CZ75/Shadow while this fits the CZ85/Shadow. Edited June 7, 2017 by NWfront Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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