Fitting an extended firing pin block...

[fellas]

If you want to fit the safety just take material from the bottom , do not over do it otherwise it will not function To  test it  hold the trigger back and lower the hammer until it starts engaging , and with a punch push the firing pin slowly feeling if it's moving flawless, if you feel it touching continue removing material from the bottom.

 

if you want the avoid all the hassle, just remove the safety it's legal in IPSC and put the extreme 2.0 hammer . With extreme medium hammer spring and light firing spring no issues with worst primers like Fiochhi and S&B 

[Trinimon]

2 hours ago, fellas said:

If you want to fit the safety just take material from the bottom , do not over do it otherwise it will not function To  test it  hold the trigger back and lower the hammer until it starts engaging , and with a punch push the firing pin slowly feeling if it's moving flawless, if you feel it touching continue removing material from the bottom.

 

if you want the avoid all the hassle, just remove the safety it's legal in IPSC and put the extreme 2.0 hammer . With extreme medium hammer spring and light firing spring no issues with worst primers like Fiochhi and S&B 

Thanks. Right now the factory safety is pretty much disabled since the sear sits lower with the Titan hammer I recently installed.

 

I guess I could have left it as is but figured disabling safeties might be pushing lady luck.  

[Trinimon]

Well, installed my Xtreme FP block tonight. Took about 90mins of fitting. I didn't want to rush it and ruin it so I took my time knocking off a thou or two at a time. I ended up at 0.499" length compared to the factory one at 0.490".

[IHAVEGAS]

Walking up an old thread I know, but, what is the advantage to the extended FPB?

[MemphisMechanic]

@IHAVEGAS it is required with a titan hammer in many cases. The firing pin block otherwise will drag on the pin, or block it entirely.

 

There’s no advantage to it. It simoly accomodates certain sear/hammer combinations that move the firing pin block less than the original parts did.

[SCTaylor]

Question in fitting the block; does the FPB fully & completely stop the firing pin from moving forward no matter the pressure?

 

On both of mine they seem to be fit properly, though with a somewhat firm push they will move past the FPB. Using light to moderate pressure, the pin is fully blocked.

[IHAVEGAS]

1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@IHAVEGAS it is required with a titan hammer in many cases. The firing pin block otherwise will drag on the pin, or block it entirely.

 

There’s no advantage to it. It simoly accomodates certain sear/hammer combinations that move the firing pin block less than the original parts did.

 

You are a wealth of info, thanks!

 

FWIW, tried just the sear & springs and polish on my latest adventure, if my other guns did not have the bolo & the other bells & whistles I think I would be fine without them. Trying to go back and forth between guns sucks though, seems like you said something similar going from a highly modded Tanfo to a Glock or something. 

[johnbu]

8 hours ago, SCTaylor said:

Question in fitting the block; does the FPB fully & completely stop the firing pin from moving forward no matter the pressure?

 

On both of mine they seem to be fit properly, though with a somewhat firm push they will move past the FPB. Using light to moderate pressure, the pin is fully blocked.

 

If they slip forward  with light -moderate force, it may have a couple of things possible. 

1) the firing pin has had the "shoulder" rounded from contacting the FPB

2) the firing pin block has been rounded from contact with the firing pin.

3) the "fitting" was too aggressive and too much material has been removed.

4) rare but possible .. the firing pin or FPB hole in the slide could have been overly "polished" and be too large.

 

Now, your "moderate" may be my heavy force.  Inspect the FPB and firing pin for signs of rounding from contact.  If they don't show rounding, you are probably OK. If they do show rounding, they may be best replaced. 

Edited July 27, 2018 by johnbu
added #4

[IHAVEGAS]

11 hours ago, johnbu said:

 

If they slip forward  with light -moderate force, it may have a couple of things possible. 

1) the firing pin has had the "shoulder" rounded from contacting the FPB

2) the firing pin block has been rounded from contact with the firing pin.

3) the "fitting" was too aggressive and too much material has been removed.

4) rare but possible .. the firing pin or FPB hole in the slide could have been overly "polished" and be too large.

 

Now, your "moderate" may be my heavy force.  Inspect the FPB and firing pin for signs of rounding from contact.  If they don't show rounding, you are probably OK. If they do show rounding, they may be best replaced. 

 

Hmmm, 2 guns work aok, 1 works intermittently (I have a Tanfo problem).

 

Is it contact from the trigger bar that pushes the block up and in position to stop the firing pin ? On my gun that works intermittently the arm of the bar on the firing pin block side is lower than on the other side, perhaps this is normal but it made me wonder about trigger bar geometry & lifter spring & etc.. 

[MemphisMechanic]

The leg at the top of the sear on that side of the gun lifts the firing pin block up and clears the path for the firing pin to strike the primer.

 

(These underlined links / advertisements are getting very annoying...)

Edited July 27, 2018 by MemphisMechanic

[IHAVEGAS]

1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The leg at the top of the sear on that side of the gun lifts the firing pin block up and clears the path for the firing pin to strike the primer.

 

(These underlined links / advertisements are getting very annoying...)

 

Another nice theory ruined by information. Thanks. Might ask PD about this one. 

 

Vigilink sucks. 

[IHAVEGAS]

Fiddling with my 1 gun that intermittently allows me to push the past the block. 

 

What I have found so far is that my gun works with oem & EG firing pins which measure 0.2040" and 0.2045" from the flat that contacts the block to the opposite round surface but fails intermittently with the PD pin which measures 0.2010” . The extended block did not require fitting so it should be dimensionally as new. 

 

For what it is worth. Sent a note to the brain trust at PD, seems like (my gut sez) a difference of 0.0030 - 0.0035" should not be enough to create a problem under normal circumstances so I'm wondering if tolerance of this gun is somewhat on the edge in one regard or another. 

[MemphisMechanic]

It’s a Tanfo dude. The Italians drill the holes in exciting new places on every gun. That’s what gives them character.

[IHAVEGAS]

54 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

It’s a Tanfo dude. The Italians drill the holes in exciting new places on every gun. That’s what gives them character.

 

 

“The perfect blossom is a rare thing. You could spend your whole life looking for one, and it would not be a wasted life”
– The Last Samurai

 

Apparently I just needed a pin that worked well with the tolerances on this gun. I think the learning for me is even when you are installing known good parts always do the safety checks. 

 

Stainless steel has been a pain in the arse for me to work with on other stuff, I wonder if Tanfo is any more consistent on tolerances with the non ss guns. 

 

[johnbu]

On 7/31/2018 at 7:21 PM, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Stainless steel has been a pain in the arse for me to work with on other stuff, I wonder if Tanfo is any more consistent on tolerances with the non ss guns. 

 

Guns are not stainless. Hard chrome over steel.

[IHAVEGAS]

10 hours ago, johnbu said:

 

Guns are not stainless. Hard chrome over steel.

 

Thanks. Bad assumption, when I think of how hard chrome looks I think of something shiny like a colt revolver my father had or a car bumper. 

[Tirppa]

On 7/27/2018 at 7:06 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

The leg at the top of the sear on that side of the gun lifts the firing pin block up and clears the path for the firing pin to strike the primer.

 

(These underlined links / advertisements are getting very annoying...)

 

I might be dumb dumb.. but isn't it the other way around? The sear leg pushes it up to block the firing pin and cams down and allows free movement when the trigger is pressed? Or do I got my parts backwards

 

am doing fitting so came to this old topic. 

[MemphisMechanic]

@Tirppa play with the slide. Push the block into the slide by hand and see when the firing pin passes it, and when it doesn’t.

 

But yes. The sear leg holds the block in the depressed-into-slide position and blocks the firing pin from moving forward. When the trigger is pulled the block moves back out and the pathway is clear.

 

Glocks, M&Ps, Walthers, and most striker guns work the opposite: as you pull the trigger the striker block is raised upward into the slide. This moves the block out of the striker’s path.