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Tirppa

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About Tirppa

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 09/04/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    eSports, IPSC, Computers, Cycling, Downhil Skiing.

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  1. nope.. Eric shoots CZ now. Still good guns. But the prices in US went to EU level. I have Limited Custom and Stock 2 in Europe. I bought them 2nd hand (or 3rd maybe who knows) just because I think they're cool. This is a hobby and it's supposed to be fun. So I wanted cool guns. CZ's and 2011 don't do it for me. So Italian steel it is. The smart money is buying Shadow 2.
  2. Here's a newbies 2 cents. Get a gun that YOU want. A gun that excites you and makes you want to shoot and get better. But also try out different guns and pick one that fits your hand the best. The one that you shoot the best. It also depends on your goals. Everybody wants to win but be realistic. Are your goals to be top 10 in the nationals in the next 3 years. Or do you just wanna have a fun hobby where you get slowly better. If you want to have fun an "easy" gun might be a good choice. By easy I mean one with easy trigger pull and low recoil impulse. But then again the Glock has its pros too. It's light. If you're a weakling like I am the draw and transitions feel easier. The trigger can be worked on to be good enough. Don't over do it. Realiability > lightest possible trigger. If I would recommend a gun for production for beginner I'd give few options. CZ Shadow 1/Shadow 2 or Glock 17. Great aftermarket support and reliable on both. Glocks are super easy to maintain. CZ torn to pieces is well.. a lot of pieces. Then again internet is full of instructions. Why those 2 (3)? Well where I live it's the availability and aftermarket support. In US you probably have more options with Walthers and Sigs but you still can't go wrong with those. All that said.. I shoot Tanfo's because they're cool as f*
  3. I might be dumb dumb.. but isn't it the other way around? The sear leg pushes it up to block the firing pin and cams down and allows free movement when the trigger is pressed? Or do I got my parts backwards am doing fitting so came to this old topic.
  4. The optic covering the extractor pin is a bit annoying.
  5. The gun looks huge in his hands
  6. ASCII art is perfect. I'm gonna go shoot some A hits slowly at the nationals this weekend but I'm gonna see what happens when I remove material from there. It will probably add a lot of pretravel and gonna be pretty close to the stock disconnector.
  7. Raising an old topic. Installing the BOLO has turned out to be quite a PITA. I now have following parts in my small frame stock 2 - xtreme titan hammer - xtreme sear - extreme firing pin - pd springs - 15,5 lbs hammer spring - xtreme trigger bar - xtreme trigger bar guide I took out the 0.020" from the arc. The reset didn't always work. DA would not engage at all. I ended up taking 0.040" out of the arc. SA works now. Obv there is now quite a bit of pretravel in SA. DA now engages but is short stroking. The throw is maybe half of the needed. The bolo is now probably ruined but what do need to do to make it work. Shorten the part that rides the frame? Am I using too heavy spring. Will that have any effect? I'm guessing something in my parts or frame is just horribly out of spec. But what are the right methods to fix the DA not engaging problem. Everything works with the original disconnector albeit the DA throw is still shortish. But still probably double compared to BOLO. I feel kinda dumb since it all seems so simple from the instructions.
  8. Thanks for the replies. Ordered new guide and new bar just for the heck of it. Asked Eric if it wouldn't be too much to check that the trigger bar guide wasn't a total piece of crap.
  9. The Glock punch actually works on everything else except the right side safety. For armorers block a friend made me on by drilling holes to a block of scrap wood he took from work. Dremel is good for polishing things. Needle head pliers are useful. Cutting down nails for slave pins helps also.
  10. Yeah the trigger bar is a mess.. I'm wondering if the xtreme parts would be any better. It's a second hand gun from 2008 and I'm the third owner. The last two did't give it too much TLC. I did smooth out the plunger rod but I guess there's still some roughness inside the head of the plunger.
  11. is this the normal shape? Like those two humps are normal? I thought it is supposed to be a continuous arc. I only used metal polish and soft polishing tip on dremel so I'm pretty sure I didn't manage to do those but can't be sure. Now after changing parts (titan hammer, extreme disco, bolo, pd springs) there is a huge drag at the beginning of the trigger pull as the trigger bar sits in the very front of the plunger and has to clear both of those humps. Then again also the bottom of the trigger bar where the plunger sits is super rough (like really deep grooves). Am I just better off buying new trigger bar and plunger?
  12. obviously DA guns have to start hammer down.. so the 3lb every pull rule doesn't pertain DA guns. Eg. you can't start cocked and locked.
  13. I'm thinking of buying a Stock 2 for production (IPSC). My dilemma is should I get the xtreme or non xtreme. For one my Limited Custom is the chrome one and I prefer that look over the weird xtreme coating. Second I'd like to keep the original trigger for better DA reach. On the other hand the xtreme AFAIK comes ready to roll out of the box with few extra mags. If I would go with the non xtreme what would I have to do beyond polishing to get a good trigger. From where I live I can get EG parts, PD Bolo, PD Springs and some Henning parts.
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