How is this Limited Pro setup?

[Underwhere]

I've been doing a lot of reading but am not 100% sure this setup will work.

Here's what I'm trying to achieve:

1. IDPA Legal gun (ESP)
2. I have short fingers and have a ton of trouble reaching the stock trigger in DA. I believe I will need a short trigger. I believe this forces me to go SA but I'm ok with that. 
3. The best trigger I can get...but I'm not a trigger junkie. 
4. The safety is pretty much useless to me. I have to rotate my hand to get my thumb under the front of the safety. I think I may need a standard size safety or figure something else out.
5. I want to light anything. I can't guarantee Federal primers. 

Here are my plans:

1. Scales 2.0
2. Henning cone guide rod
3. Single side safety (non extended version)
4. Henning short trigger kit 
5. Dawson Fiber front sight .160 high 100 wide
6. PD Reduced sear spring
7. PD optimized firing pin spring
8. Wolf 8 pound recoil spring
9. PD optimized 13 pound hammer spring (maybe also a 14 pound as well)
10. Titan Hammer
11. BOLO interrupter
 

Thoughts on this setup? Am I missing any must-haves?

[MemphisMechanic]

I'm a fan of the .140 height DP sight. Keeps the fragile LPA lower a little lower in the notch, and it still has plenty of adjustability left.

I'm assuming you left the PD trigger spring out of the list because Henning's short trigger comes with one.

Honestly, if you're struggling with the trigger reach of the Tanfoglio, why didn't you choose the shorter and thinner CZ? I feel like the Tanfoglio got popular with US shooters because of its large frame - I have long thin hands and a Shadow never felt like I was holding onto enough gun.

Edited December 4, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[Underwhere]

6 hours ago, ARy said:

If you're going to run a Titan and bolo, use a standard Tafo trigger, ie. curved in your case, due to short fingers. 

Do these not play well with each other? 

So it's either get a short trigger or stick with the stock hammer and interrupter?  (Assuming trigger reach is my priority) 

 

Yeah no store had a limited pro for me to try and I liked the idea of the longer sight radius. I have a cz p01 which has a short reach combat trigger and thin grips which now works (lengthwise) for me. I figured I could do something similar to the lim pro. 

 

[MemphisMechanic]

If you're going to put Henning's trigger kit into the gun, it'll be ESP-only due to the external modification. Since it's going to be shot in ESP...

I'd look for a set of safeties that let you reach them, because I'd absolutely be shooting the gun in single-action cocked and locked.

You're already at a disadvantage with the Lim Pro because I don't believe anyone makes an IDPA legal magwell for it, and Tanfos are hard guns to reload fast. ESP means you're up against 9mm 2011s with light SA triggers and IDPA-size magwells that load much more easily.

I'd want to set it up for SSP because that's where the gun would be one of the most dominant choices. But that means either the factory trigger or the Xtreme "less curved" trigger. And the factory trigger has a shorter trigger reach in DA.

If it makes weight, I'd look into the Xtreme / EGD grips because they're the thinnest ones made for the gun that I'm aware of. The scales seemed to be somewhere between those and factory wood ones from my memory, although I could be wrong.

Edited December 4, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[LeviSS]

I don't think the EGD grips make weight.  I saw a guy get DQd for weight with lim pro and EGD grips.

 

The Lim pro is already close on weight, so it doesn't give you much wiggle room.

 

No matter what you do, I'd be sure to invest in a scale to weigh the gun.  It'll save you a lot of grief, and you'll find other uses...my girlfriend uses it in the kitchen, too ?.

Edited December 4, 2016 by LeviSS

[johnbu]

Extended base pads with henning or eg metal aftermarket grips, I'm pretty sure they go over 43oz. The scales 2  i think, will just barely be under with pads. There is a write up on it somewhere.

 

The copper brand or the wood grips sanded flat and skate tape willl be the lightest thin grip options.

 

If you go SA start, the factory curved trigger will be furthest back.  also after polishing you will be mid-high 3# range using factory spring. Pop in Patriot Defense sear and trigger spring and you will be high 2# to 3# even. Depends on polishing effectiveness and lube used.

The Titan hammer isn't  needed for reliability in SA only operation. BUT it has better hook geometry for a much nicer break and it allows nearly drop in with the BOLO.  That gives an amazing trigger.  The lim pro should normally come with the 1 piece sear and extreme firing pin block.

[Underwhere]

I ended up doing this:

• Henning flat trigger (short reach). This comes with the trigger spring and trigger plunger spring
• Henning guide rod
• Wolf 10lb recoil spring
• PD optimized firing pin spring
• PD 13lb hammer spring
• PD reduced sear spring
   
• Scales 2.0
   
• Standard single sided safety
• Dawson 100 wide 160 tall fiber front sight

Since it has the Henning flat trigger it's a SA gun now. I have the trigger at 2lb 8 ounces.

I'm still curious about the BOLO and Titan hammer and not sure why it wouldn't work...but the gun is pretty decent right now. Still need to find time to hit the range and confirm function. I am a bit nervous about not being able to set off all primers. 

[johnbu]

The 13 may be fine....depends on a lot of factors. Look in the firing pin hole, some are nice, but some look to have been cut with rocks!

Polishing that hole and the firing pin will help ensure ignition. Are you keeping the firing pin block safety? If so, polish it and its hole. MemphisMechanic has a nice write up on tuning it to minimize impact on ignition. (It can impede the pin).

I would go to the pd14 spring. Better strike force and only a few oz more pull. When swapping, polish the strut and the spring hole. Inspect the frame gap the hammer swings through. Clearance it if it is rubbing the hammer.

All  those little things add up to a robust system.

All the other polishing advice you find will help....but gives more benefit to the da stroke.

If 9mm  you really NEED to verify plunk is good with long ammo.  if on doubt send the barrel to Bevin Grams for reaming to spec. Tanfo has had trouble boring barrels on and off. He is fast, good and inexpensive. Often a light strike on Tanfo 9mm  be traced to a bad chamber or leed and not the other stuff.

[Underwhere]

23 hours ago, johnbu said:

The 13 may be fine....depends on a lot of factors. Look in the firing pin hole, some are nice, but some look to have been cut with rocks!

Polishing that hole and the firing pin will help ensure ignition. Are you keeping the firing pin block safety? If so, polish it and its hole. MemphisMechanic has a nice write up on tuning it to minimize impact on ignition. (It can impede the pin).

I would go to the pd14 spring. Better strike force and only a few oz more pull. When swapping, polish the strut and the spring hole. Inspect the frame gap the hammer swings through. Clearance it if it is rubbing the hammer.

All  those little things add up to a robust system.

All the other polishing advice you find will help....but gives more benefit to the da stroke.

If 9mm  you really NEED to verify plunk is good with long ammo.  if on doubt send the barrel to Bevin Grams for reaming to spec. Tanfo has had trouble boring barrels on and off. He is fast, good and inexpensive. Often a light strike on Tanfo 9mm  be traced to a bad chamber or leed and not the other stuff.

Thanks for that info. I polished the firing pin, the hammer strut but didn't polish the firing pin channel nor the hammer spring channel. 
I'm actually wondering how the F to do that effectively. 

[MemphisMechanic]

Q tip and polishing compound in a drill

Or sandpaper rolled up and chucked in it.

[MemphisMechanic]

Both Channels definitely need done. Along with the hammer spring on the inside and outside of the coils. The paint PD uses to color code them is helpful, but also produces noticeable drag unless it's removed from these spots.

Edited December 12, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[johnbu]

The FP channel is done with a brass bore cleaning brush wrapped with cloth coated with compound spun by a drill.

If you polish the springs, leave one end painted to id it.  then put that end down in the hole  first. Very little impact that way and you still know what it is.

[MemphisMechanic]

I found I had plenty of yellow paint remaining on the 14 when I finished polishing it inside and out. I didn't go nuts on the spring - just knocked any buildup of paint off and got it down to bare metal then smoothed it a bit.

I did most of my polishing on the hammer strut and in the hole instead.

(Plus I have small ziplock bags labeled "13 Hammer" and "14 hammer" in the box I keep all the factory Tanfo parts in. Obviously one stays empty.)

Edited December 12, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[johnbu]

I have a LARGE bin with folded over masking tape holding springs  with things like "2c15W", "c1w14c1" and "w14c1" scribbled on them.

Cryptic verbiage to convey what precise madness  i was experimenting with at one point. It gets UGLY if 2 or 3 are being played with at the same time.

 

But what was truely ugly was trying to replicate a spring's characteristics cutting a 1/4 turn at a time from alternate ends. Thank goodness for Patriot Defense!

[Underwhere]

Thanks for all your tips. I'll tackle that today. 

[MemphisMechanic]

1 hour ago, johnbu said:

... what precise madness  i was experimenting with at one point. It gets UGLY if 2 or 3 are being played with at the same time.

But what was truely ugly was trying to replicate a spring's characteristics cutting a 1/4 turn at a time from alternate ends. Thank goodness for Patriot Defense!

And to think, rather than trying to work your way down to the perfect 4lb DA pull that will light ______ brand primers, you could have quit at a smooth 6 pounds and spent all those extra hours practicing.  

There are some big advantages to shooting a Tanfo in Production, in my opinion. The one big drawback is the ability to tinker to a degree well beyond what one can do with a Glock, for example.

I continually have to remind myself "no, you don't need to play with _____ in this gun. The trigger is good enough to win matches. You're done. Go to the range and get better at operating it!"

Edited December 12, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[nunez]

MemphisMechanic, Please provide a link to your tutorial on FPB fitting. Thank you sir.

[MemphisMechanic]

Search for 'firing pin block' inside the EAA/Tanfo forum and you'd get this as the second result:

 

[Bapple]

Yeah, my ext. firing pin block went right in with no fitting needed.  Polished it  up, and installed it.  Pin and block both work as intended.

[johnbu]

Great !  They normally go in just fine.

[MemphisMechanic]

25 minutes ago, johnbu said:

Great !  They normally go in just fine.

Mine only needed a few passes of a file before it cleared. A thousandth or two appears to be the variation in tolerances between guns - in the ones like mine where fitting is needed, it's still exceptionally close to clearing.

[PatriotDefense]

Thanks for posting up the video Memphis....

[Underwhere]

So I have been loving this gun since I made these changes... Until I tried an SP01 with some Cajun parts in it) adjustable sear and their race hammer)

Now my trigger break feels like mush compared to it.

The SP01 is a frozen carror...where my limpro is a soaked celery stick.

I'm. Thinking it's the sear and hammer hooks. Would I see any benefit going with an EG sear?
New hammer?

Again I have the Henning single action trigger.

I ended up doing this:

• Henning flat trigger (short reach). This comes with the trigger spring and trigger plunger spring
• Henning guide rod
• Wolf 10lb recoil spring
• PD optimized firing pin spring
• PD 13lb hammer spring
• PD reduced sear spring
   
• Scales 2.0
   
• Standard single sided safety
• Dawson 100 wide 160 tall fiber front sight

Since it has the Henning flat trigger it's a SA gun now. I have the trigger at 2lb 8 ounces.

I'm still curious about the BOLO and Titan hammer and not sure why it wouldn't work...but the gun is pretty decent right now. Still need to find time to hit the range and confirm function. I am a bit nervous about not being able to set off all primers. 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

Without a titan and bolo it's a turd when compared to a tuned gun, esp. a CZ with all the trimmings. I mean, you're comparing your gun to a gun with an aftermarket comp hammer. Not really apples to apples, eh?

Get a titan, eaa 1 piece sear, and a bolo. I'd also advise you to go to a traditional tanfo SAO trigger or even an extreme trigger, and get that henning set-up out of there asap.

That CZ will be laughable compared to what your Tanfo will do with the above installed. 

Thanks for the response.
The Henning trigger is the perfect reach for me. (I need to explore options with this trigger first) I wasn't aware that tanfoglio had a Sao option. I'll look into it and maybe replace.

Am I correct in assuming that the Hammer and extreme sear have to be used together?

If I am SAO the bolo will have no effect right?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

Ok so I'm trying to gather my parts list again.

Thanks for the help again. It's been difficult trying to get this thing perfect. 

• EGD Xtreme Titan hammer http://patriotdefense.com/product/egd-xtreme-titan-hammer/
• Hammer pin (Can I re-use my old one?)
• A flat trigger like this one http://patriotdefense.com/product/tanfoglio-xtreme-trigger-sa/
• The BOLO http://patriotdefense.com/product/tanfoglio-optimized-bolo-interrupter/
• A reduced power trigger return spring (since I have the Henning I didn't need one of these before) http://patriotdefense.com/product/tanfoglio-optimized-trigger-return-spring-reduced-power/
• A one piece (also known as the "long" sear) http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-one-piece-long-sear-9-1/

 

One thing I have a question about is the BOLO. The BOLO is essentially a replacement for the interrupter correct? 
My Limpro does not have an interrupter anymore since it was converted to SAO. 

Neither does the CZ SP01 that was converted to SAO with the CGW parts. 

So I thought that the BOLO didn't serve a purpose once you went that route...and that it was only used in a DA/SA gun. Am I way wrong on this?