Underwhere

Everything seems to be fine now. Extra power extractor spring, PD extended firing pin, new fit extended FPB, an xtreme SAO trigger, and a standard magazine catch instead of th extended limpro catch. Now it seems to be running smooth with no short stroking.

I have small hands. I use the scales 2.0 grips, an extreme flat trigger in single action only and have no issues with reach anymore.

I have both. I had the Henning in there but didn't like it. I had some issues short stroking it. I put in flat extreme trigger and it's fine now. (or I'm fine now)

What's the easiest way to demagnetize this thing (without a hammer)?

I'll grab my BFH and take care of it.

I ordered one to try out. The factory isn't magnetic but the patriot defense one definitely is. With a steel slide (it is attracted to the metal) I'm wondering if this is a potential issue. With 3 weeks of polishing every damn part on my limpro it seems like a part being attracted to the metal surrounding it would be a contradiction.

Ok I'll look into the extra strength spring. Interesting that it's all of a sudden occurring now but I guess the extra strength spring couldn't hurt. My right thumb sits naturally on top of the safety. My support hand just happen to naturally hit the mag release. And yes...noted on the trigger drill. It's just a problem I've never had before. There was a spent case in the chamber with a fresh round jamming up underneath it. I'll check the extractor hook and order a stronger spring.

The saga continues: I went back to do some more testing. Solved a problem and 3 more came to light. To recap here is what's currently in the gun: Henning single action trigger with the rearmost trigger for shortest reach Stock plunger spring Reduced sear spring Factory one piece long sear Titan Hammer 14 pound hammer spring Extended firing pin block Extended left sided safety 10 pound recoil spring. Problems last time: The trigger would fail to reset. Even after I let go of it it would stay there. I had to push the trigger forward with my finger to reset it. Changes: Here is what I changed from the last time I shot: (Removed BOLO, put pre-travel screw back into the trigger, put the 10# recoil spring into the gun, loaded up a new cartridge with an OAL of 1.070 which is short but is necessary to plunk test successfully in my other CZ's) Problem Solved I no longer had any issues with the trigger resetting. Progess New problems - I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract. I'm short stroking the trigger. The only other gun I've done this in is a Ruger LCR. While testing I was pushing to see how fast I could get the gun to shoot and many times I would sit there pressing trigger only to realize I hadn't let it reset. I'm wondering what's going on here. There is nothing mechanically wrong with the trigger now. I'm wondering if the trigger being so far back (I bought the trigger that sits the farthest back) has any affect on this. Is the timing of the gun off? The only way for me to be sure to cycle is if I slap the trigger which I've really never done before and don't intend on doing now. When I'm shooting with 2 hands, my support hand is constantly depressing the mag release and dropping the damn mag. Do they make a more shallow mag release? Ideas welcome

I'm back to the factory plunger spring and was running it when these issues occurred.

So just another update: I got a chance to get back to the range with my 14 pound hammer spring. No more light strikes however it seems like the reset issues I was experiencing before (very weak and non-positive reset) is becoming worse. My trigger fails to reset when shooting fast. I actually had to take my trigger finger and help the trigger forward to reset it a number of times. I went home and removed the BOLO and the reset is much much more positive now. I'm now using the pre-travel screw to stop the trigger rather than count on the BOLO. I've definitely been hunting for the perfect trigger and have wasted an extraordinary amount of money on this thing. I've actually built 2 other guns with Cajun Gun Works parts and the triggers are far better than this and with no messing around. They work 100% as soon as the parts were put in. I wish Cajun would make parts for this gun. I'm a little disappointed with Henning on their SAO trigger as well as the Patriot Defense BOLO. This gun is definitely going to take a few more range trips for me to feel comfortable that it's functioning properly. But after all this work, and incredible amount of polishing this is literally the smoothest gun I have ever shot by far. It's very flat shooting with 147gr over titegroup spitting it out at roughly 880fps. I have the trigger at 2.5 pounds....but would gladly trade 1 pound to make it as crisp, fast and reliable as a Cajun setup.

I bought a new one. I honestly forget whether you could simply remove one side. It was the first thing I did.

Yea. It's rocking the Titan hammer and BOLO. Extended firing pin block with factory firing pin. I used PD's firing pin spring and a 13 pound hammer spring. Then yesterday night I put the 14 pound spring in. Now I just need to find some day to get back to the range.

Makes sense. Thanks for your suggestions. I did "fit" the Fpb to make sure the firing pin wasn't dragging. Also it was a bit strange but I only noticed light strikes in the first 100 or 200 rounds. So maybe it's a friction thing somewhere that worked itself out.

So I put about 300 to 400 rounds through the gun today. Had quite a number of light strikes. So I put the 14 pound hammer spring in and removed the 13. I'm running a factory firing pin. Is the extended one necessary? Do I need to buy a new firing pin block if I get the extended firing pin? Also put the stock trigger plunger spring back in. The reset could barely be felt without it. Trigger pull is 2.5 pounds at the moment.

Yup.

The extended is definitely longer. I literally just fit mine last night.

I put in a BOLO and a Titan hammer. My factory fpb stopped working. I bought the extended and fit it. Now it works.

The newest rulebook says magwell modification is legal.(W) I don't think it was before. I'm hoping I didn't read it incorrectly...else I'd have to buy another Tanfo.

Here is my lim pro with scales 2.0 Henning trigger and Titan hammer and BOLO. Henning guide rod and a Dawson front sight. I beveled the magwell so there is some material removed. May be a reason why I'm 1/2 ounce under weight. (maybe not) 42.47 ounces with the factory mag.

Agreed. I'm not even someone who cares about having the best trigger in the world. Hell I like my Glock 34 trigger. I'm just caught up in the chase.

Got it. Another order to go. Then I need to find time to put some rounds through it. Thanks for all the help. I feel like I'm almost there (though I felt like that before BOLO and Titan and Flat trigger and new sear)

OK thanks for the confirmation. Can I ask a few questions before I place yet another order 1. Does the Titan do anything except have slightly different hooks for less travel? Does it improve ignition? I am sort of at the point of no return because I modified the sear for the safety... But I'm considering the stock hammer and removing the BOLO. 2. Do I need a new firing pin with the extended block? 3. Do I need a new spring with the extended block? I also want to mention that if you buy a Tanfoglio flat trigger it doesn't come with the set screws. That's really annoying.

So I got my flat trigger and new one piece sear. I threw them in. It made no difference whatsoever... So yea that was a waste of $110 So I tossed the hemming trigger back in with the BOLO and Titan hammer. I fit the safety leg of the sear. I am under 2.5 pounds, sometimes almost at the 2 pound mark depending on where I catch the trigger. Here is the problem. I double checked my firing pin to ensure that it was blocked by the FPB. It no longer works. My guess is that the Titan or BOLO somehow did that so I'll need to order an extended FPB? I have the factory firing pin.

So I was thinking about this at work today. If I have my stock trigger and rack my gun (putting it into SA) there is a bunch of takeup in the trigger. (Let's call this Point A) If I press the trigger and work through that takeup, the trigger actually stays there (Let's call this Point B). It doesn't move back. Also if I break the shot and rack the slide and ride the trigger to reset, it stays at Point B. Once the trigger moves to Point B it never goes back to Point A. To me that's some sort of spring or friction issue preventing the trigger from getting to Point B in the first place? Or am I just going nuts?

I compete with Glocks (used to) so I'm very used to the reset. Typically I pay attention to reset it when shooting strong or weak hand only...but I can learn not to. Thanks for all your help. I'm waiting for the Tanfo trigger and new sear to arrive. I'll toss both in and see whether there is any affect. I believe I will not have a need to use both set screws in the SAO trigger if the BOLO is taking care of the reset for me.