Alaskan454 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 After reading through some of the older posts I gave it a try with the Brownell's TiN tool. It took me a while since I hadn't cut a Ti cylinder before, holy crap are they hard! I ended up using mostly the 45 degree tool and only breaking the remaining hard edges on the extractor and charge holes with some rubberized abrasive. I can't physically get a loaded moonclip to hang up now. Before it was 90% likely to get stuck on something and now they can be loaded from any angle. I originally thought they were getting snagged on the outside of the holes but after putting a hefty chamfer on each it turns out the hard edge underneath the extractor was causing a lot of the issues. Anyway here's how it looks now, I think it turned out well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taroman Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Nice job. A machinist friend did mine. Ruined one of his tools. He said it was harder than woodpecker lips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanMan1961 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Nice job! I have a set of those Brownells chamfer sets I'd used succesfully on my 625's. It wouldn't touch my 929 cylinder either. What kind of rubberized abrasive did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 It's an off brand set of Craytex style Dremel attachments. Just like these: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Rotary-Assorted-Rubber-Accessory/dp/B0078S63NA/ref=pd_sim_201_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJMDZZHA9QK707D58GSH I found the Ti needed firm and consistent pressure to start cutting with the chamfer tool, much more than stainless steel would require. The rubberized bits hardly remove any metal from the cylinder, just enough to break the edge and smooth out any machine marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 If you do the first bit of chamfering with a grinding stone the Brownell's tool will work fine for the clean up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispin1025 Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 A very nice job! I'm planning on doing the same to one of my guns, any other tips or suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 Gregg's suggestion would greatly speed up the process if you are comfortable freehanding it. I hadn't worked with the material before so I went slowly while learning the process. If I did another I might use a grinding stone to rough it out and clean up with the tool. Also, the extractor required a lot less than I expected so use a loaded clip to check your work from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/AZDENT-Denture-Polishing-Low-speed-Handpiece/dp/B00G2875V6 I haven't tried to polish titanium but these denture polishing burs work well on steel. The black is the most abrasive and works well at lower speeds for metal. They work well on the star throat area and 1911 feed ramps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanMan1961 Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 a lot of good tips here. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 It's generally the case mouth that hangs up on the chamber edge. Your chamfer needs to be just a little larger than the case is thick. The excessively large chamfers we occasionally see posted here are not necessary. As 454 notes above, there is a benefit to breaking the square corners underneath the extractor with a cratex point.I used a steel countersink to chamfer a buddies 929 on my mill, the tool is not the same as it was.Titanium requires a bit more force to get the tool to cut. A few years back I refinished a titanium suppressor that had been shot off and landed in gravel. I had to file a couple dings out of the body of the can prior to paint. The titanium filed normally once the file started cutting, but it took more force to get it started and it felt "gummy". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 19 hours ago, PatJones said: It's generally the case mouth that hangs up on the chamber edge. Your chamfer needs to be just a little larger than the case is thick. The excessively large chamfers we occasionally see posted here are not necessary. Absolutely true, Pat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 I did mine just enough so a loaded clip could not contact any portion of case mouth on a hard edge. It took less than I thought as you both mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ysrracer Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 On 9/27/2016 at 7:42 AM, Alaskan454 said: I originally thought they were getting snagged on the outside of the holes but after putting a hefty chamfer on each it turns out the hard edge underneath the extractor was causing a lot of the issues. When my gunsmith did mine I asked him, "where's the chamfer". He said, under the extractor, where it needs to be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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