brian45acp Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 For the 75 series I figured this was easy enough but perhaps I have been doing it wrong. The area that is staked I just now figured maybe it would have been a better idea to push the pin out the top to preserve the staked area. When I did try to drive it out the top it was much harder to do so I drove it out the bottom instead. I always pushed it out the bottom and back in from the bottom and never had an issue. I do notice now that the pin goes in easily with a little effort and I can push it in by hand and tap it with a flat punch right near the end of its travel. I measured the pin and it doesnt seem to be tapered so the stake must be all that kept it from moving downward but I worry that now I ruined the staked area which is why it moves in so easy. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy the stake tool and restake it? How should I be removing and installing the pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Are you guys actually buying this stake tool? It's $47 so it must be made of captain Americas shield or some crap. I imagine it's nothing more then lining it up with the existing mark made by the factory and wacking it with a hammer. Any tips on using it? I thought maybe for the extractor pin if a slight bend were put on it then there would be some interference to hold it secure. That or a bit of 620 loctite at the end before its taped in flush. I'll buy the stake tool if it's necessary but I never seen that thing talked about on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tok36 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Good question, i am also interested to hear others input. I have not needed to pull the extractor pin out of any of my CZs yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Everything I read says push it out the bottom. It will remove the stake so I am going to buy the tool and just give it a love tap to hold it in place. Some people have said that hole is tapered at the top but as far as I can tell it isnt. It is however more difficult to remove pushing it out the top but I think thats because there is some thick poly finish in the hole. I just wonder how many times it can be staked in the same mark on the underside of the slide with out causing an issue? I imagine it only needs to be removed a dozen times over the entire life of the pistol so it shouldnt be an issue. The stupid tool is so expensive but it seems that its needed to do this properly. On the cajun web site it says to restake if you look up the extractor pin. Under the tech notes it calls for restaking. I am just worried that if driven out the top it ruins something if in fact the hole is tapered but I am not sure. I got the pin partially out then realized it was too stiff so I drove it back out the bottom and intend to keep removing it out the bottom from now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 i buy roll pins the size of stock solid pins and they seem to have some extra 'spring' in them by their design that they stay in better without staking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 (edited) So you are using actual roll pins? what size and where did you get them? I dont want to jack up the hole in the slide and thats my concern in terms of which direction the pin should come out. As far as I can tell it doesnt matter despite what some posts I am seeing online say. Some think the hole is tapered and I really doubt that. I think the hole near the top has some poly coat finish in it which is why the pin is harder to remove going out the top. Well, I bought the $48 tool and will just give a light hit to the same area the factory did. It shouldnt take much to hold it in there and as of yet I havent seen it move so I think just the spring tension on the extractor keeps it where it should be.The stake should just be insurance On CGW web site they say to stake the pin in the tech notes. There must be a reason for all this but a roll pin makes great sense. I just dont know why they didnt use one vs the solid pin. Maybe the roll pin isnt strong enough but I doubt that since its just holding the extractor in place. Edited July 25, 2016 by brian45acp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneBray Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I tap the pin out the bottom, reinstall from the bottom, and don't stake. As of today's match, 65k rnds and the pin never comes out unless I tap it out with a punch. The spring tension on the extractor keeps it in place. CZ75 SP01. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Sounds good enough. Mine has never moved either but I just striped my slide and sent to czc for mill work to mount a dot. This is when I noticed the pin came out easily. I just checked my 75 compact CCW gun and it's the same. I guess that spring tension is all that is needed to hold it. For insurance on my CCW gun I will use my stake tool I have coming to add a little interference just to assure it won't move Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 (edited) Double post Edited July 25, 2016 by brian45acp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1A4ME Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I've only replaced one extractor (old Pre B CZ85). Drove it out from the top and put it back in from the bottom. Mine was tight from the time the pin entered the hole in the bottom of the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Mine aren't tight in 3 of my CZs Cajun said don't oil it and I don't but I do clean it with Kroil. I will start using a cleaner and leave it dry. He said it almost never needs to come out. The tool just line it up with factory mark and give it a tap. Just need to deform the metal a little to secure the pin. It doesn't move on its own anyway so not much stake still be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 In all of the ones i have dissasembled the pin hole is tapered smaller toward the top of the slide and if someone has not driven the pin out of the top of the slide, has plenty of tension on the pin. All you need to do it make a dimple next to the pin hole to displace a minute amount of metal at the edge of the pin hole, this and the taperd hole should hold the pin securely in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 I really doubt that hole is tapered. I asked CZC and they didn't think so either. It is harder to remove toward the top though so who knows. On one of CZs I started that way and realized it was harder so I went back downward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 So, if it is not tapered then why does it get harder toward the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1A4ME Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Should be easy to check with the (nearly) right sized drill bit and the pin out. I'll try to remember to do that when I strip the 85 down for refinishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 I think it's harder because the poly coat finish is inside the hole near the top. I've read people say that hole is tapered and others say the hole has a step in it. There is no step for sure because that would be easy to see. If the hole were tapered then I would think the pin would be as well and it's not. How could you push a parallel pin into a tapered hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Are you guys actually buying this stake tool? It's $47 so it must be made of captain Americas shield or some crap. No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Good question, i am also interested to hear others input. I have not needed to pull the extractor pin out of any of my CZs yet. Gunk builds up under the extractor over time, reducing tension and causing feeding trouble. The only way to get it out is by pulling the extractor and scraping out the channel. I've pulled the extractors in my CZs dozens of times, always by drifting the pin out the bottom of the slide then re-inserting it from the bottom. It's never come loose in ~75k rounds between my two main blasters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I think it's harder because the poly coat finish is inside the hole near the top. I've read people say that hole is tapered and others say the hole has a step in it. There is no step for sure because that would be easy to see. If the hole were tapered then I would think the pin would be as well and it's not. How could you push a parallel pin into a tapered hole? You are swaging the pin down when you do that or opening up the pinhole. On all of the guns I have and even with the Polycoat stripped off the gun the hole is smaller at the top than on the bottom. I do not see a step in the pin hole but I cannot get a pin to start in the top of the slide. Therefore on at least the guns I own, the hole has a taper. It is smaller on the top of the slide and larger on the bottom where the pin is easily started and driven into place to a point where the hole gets smaller and the pins comes to a dead stop. I would think it is meant to be that way because that is certainly the way it is. Pushing a parallel shaft into a tapered hole is the same thing you do when taper crimping a round. That's how you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) I don't think you can swage a solid steel pin. I don't plan on removing the pin through the top and the time I tried I got it part way and realized it was much harder then downward. Your idea of a taper hole is all that does make sense though. These guns freak me out with all the hidden features like this. My P-01 I did the same damn thing with the pin that holds the sear cage in. It's not tapered but has a relief cut on one side and not the other. I do remember one pin being tapered but I forgot which now. Rowdy had the best idea for the extractor which was a roll pin. I haven't had any issues though so I got 2 new pins and a staking tool. I will replace the pin and stake the hole and try to not take it apart until spring or extractor need to be replaced. Edited August 3, 2016 by brian45acp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneBray Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) American Gunsmithing Institute's CD/DVD on CZ75 says the extractor pin hole is tapered, and to remove the pin drive it out the bottom of the slide. I believe CZ says the hole is trappered; drive it out the bottom. If not tappered, and you need to stake the bottom, what keeps the pin from walking out the top? If there is a a stake mark on the extractor pin hole, then it will not hurt to stake the pin. If you choose to do so, you can find a good punch for staking without spending ~$35-$47 for the tool. My extractor pin came out easily. If staked in was very, very minor staking. I've never staked the pin and it has never walked. I believe the reason is the tapered hole, and the pressure exerted on the pin be the extractor spring and extractor. If you choose to drive the extractor pin out the top, you assume the risk for damage to the pin and the slide. My opinion is it would be foolish to even attempt driving the pin out the top. Edited August 4, 2016 by GeneBray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Good info. Hopefully it's fine. I got it part way out the top and realized it was too tight. This is why I asked the question because I figured there was something more to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1A4ME Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 My old CZ 85 (Pre isn't polycoated (or whatever the modern finish is). It appears to have been parkerized and that should be on the insides, too. I got out the big drill bit box and still didn't have anything close to the hole diameter on the top of the slide. Either way to big or way to small. Still idea what the diameter is on bottom or top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Looked them over again. If the hole is tapered there is very little material at the top. The serrated top strap cuts away part of that hole. The extractor pin is just barely below flush. Not much there at all to be tapered. I'm not debating putting it through the top because I don't plan on it but looking at the hole there isn't much material there to where a taper would be effective. Any way, good discussion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneBray Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 CORRECTION. Looked at AIG video on CZ75 earlier this weekend. The video shows the pin being driven out the to of the slide -- easily. I apologize for the bad info. Did a complete tear down and cleaning of my pistol Friday. The extractor pin hole appears to be tapered. I can tap the pin out the receiver bottom but not the top. There is considerable tension on the pin from the extractor and spring. I do not believe the pin can or should be driven out the receiver top -- at least on my slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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