5.56 Die recommendations

[Ponce]

Getting ready to start loading .223 / 5.56 on my 650 and am looking for die recommendations and set-ups. Right now I plan on de-priming and sizing, then cleaning followed by charging and seating / crimping.

[trodrig]

I think you'll want to clean before sizing. I clean, lube, size/deprime, clean again to get lube out of the necks especially so powder doesn't bridge, then trim and swage primer pockets if necessary, then load.

[armydad]

You can't go wrong with Dillon. Admittedly, they are the only dies I have experience with in 5.56, but they work great.

[mpeltier]

Dillon carbide

Adjust sizing die for cam-over on the shellplate

Clean brass before you put it in your press.

If you dont know what cam-over is when adjusting sizing dies, do a search or call Dillon.

[Corey]

Redding and Forster are both good brands. Carbide is nice but you won't find them many places in rifle dies, and when you do they are expensive. Rifle cases are (most) all angled in the body so you need to lube no matter what.

Always clean the brass before you size them.

[Kaldor]

Dillon carbide are great dies and so are Redding and Forster.... But, why? Why spend a ridiculous amount of money any unless you are looking to build match ammo? The guy is just starting out.

For the money would will pretty really hard pressed to beat a set of Lee's, or if you want a little nicer set, a set of Hornady's because the seater is much nicer. Dont get sucked into a trap where everyone tells you to buy the most expensive thing just because of the "buy once, cry once" mentality that exists. For some things, absolutely, but 90% of the time, not needed.

[Corey]

The standard Redding and Forster Full Length dies are far from expensive. The competition versions with the micrometers, bushings, etc are very pricey, but the normal sets aren't bad at all.

[mpeltier]

Dillon carbide are great dies and so are Redding and Forster.... But, why? Why spend a ridiculous amount of money any unless you are looking to build match ammo? The guy is just starting out.

For the money would will pretty really hard pressed to beat a set of Lee's, or if you want a little nicer set, a set of Hornady's because the seater is much nicer. Dont get sucked into a trap where everyone tells you to buy the most expensive thing just because of the "buy once, cry once" mentality that exists. For some things, absolutely, but 90% of the time, not needed.

So have you ever used both Dillon carbide and non-carbide in extensive side by side comparison?

[Kaldor]

Dillon carbide are great dies and so are Redding and Forster.... But, why? Why spend a ridiculous amount of money any unless you are looking to build match ammo? The guy is just starting out.

For the money would will pretty really hard pressed to beat a set of Lee's, or if you want a little nicer set, a set of Hornady's because the seater is much nicer. Dont get sucked into a trap where everyone tells you to buy the most expensive thing just because of the "buy once, cry once" mentality that exists. For some things, absolutely, but 90% of the time, not needed.

So have you ever used both Dillon carbide and non-carbide in extensive side by side comparison?

Have you?

The Dillon carbide dies are designed to be used in a very high usage scenario, in short, production scenarios, ie 100's of thousands of rounds.. The internal dimensions are probably exactly the same as the Dillon steel dies, and in reality size the brass no differently than a steel die with the exact same internal dimensions. The only real advantage of having carbide is that they use a carbide sizing ring like a set of pistol dies so maybe they will size slightly easier. However, you still need to use sizing lube to size rifle brass.

For the average person who MIGHT load 50K pieces of 223 in their lifetime, a quality steel die with give the same performance as the carbide die. I have personally loaded 10k pieces of 223 in the last 2 years with my steel Hornady dies, and they work just fine. Ill get back to you in 10 years when Im in excess of 50k, as I only really started loading in quantity about 2 years ago. Im sure there are a handful of guys on this very forum that have steel dies that are over 50k without needing replacement on their steel dies.

Even the companies that arguably make some of the best dies like Forster or Redding are still using steel.

At over triple the cost and no real perceivable benefit Ill stick with using a steel die.

Edited July 22, 2016 by Kaldor

[mpeltier]

Dillon carbide are great dies and so are Redding and Forster.... But, why? Why spend a ridiculous amount of money any unless you are looking to build match ammo? The guy is just starting out.

For the money would will pretty really hard pressed to beat a set of Lee's, or if you want a little nicer set, a set of Hornady's because the seater is much nicer. Dont get sucked into a trap where everyone tells you to buy the most expensive thing just because of the "buy once, cry once" mentality that exists. For some things, absolutely, but 90% of the time, not needed.

So have you ever used both Dillon carbide and non-carbide in extensive side by side comparison?

Have you?

The Dillon carbide dies are designed to be used in a very high usage scenario, in short, production scenarios, ie 100's of thousands of rounds.. The internal dimensions are probably exactly the same as the Dillon steel dies, and in reality size the brass no differently than a steel die with the exact same internal dimensions. The only real advantage of having carbide is that they use a carbide sizing ring like a set of pistol dies so maybe they will size slightly easier. However, you still need to use sizing lube to size rifle brass.

For the average person who MIGHT load 50K pieces of 223 in their lifetime, a quality steel die with give the same performance as the carbide die. I have personally loaded 10k pieces of 223 in the last 2 years with my steel Hornady dies, and they work just fine. Ill get back to you in 10 years when Im in excess of 50k, as I only really started loading in quantity about 2 years ago. Im sure there are a handful of guys on this very forum that have steel dies that are over 50k without needing replacement on their steel dies.

Even the companies that arguably make some of the best dies like Forster or Redding are still using steel.

At over triple the cost and no real perceivable benefit Ill stick with using a steel die.

Yes I have. have both on my bench. I only use the carbide one now.

Thanks for answering my question indirectly. So you haven't used both but discount an item you don't have or use, based on no personal experience, just price.....got it.

Nothing wrong with steel dies, if you can't afford carbide they will work for many years. The carbide are much smoother and makes the press stroke feel much nicer. It allows me to really feel something going wrong (or right). If you do any serious volume it can be worth the extra cost.

[earplug]

Years ago i used RCBS with out a lot drama. Have switched to Redding and they just feel better. The threads and adjustments are super smooth and easy. I have carbide sizing buttons. They smooth up the operation.

[Kaldor]

Yes I have. have both on my bench. I only use the carbide one now.

Thanks for answering my question indirectly. So you haven't used both but discount an item you don't have or use, based on no personal experience, just price.....got it.

Nothing wrong with steel dies, if you can't afford carbide they will work for many years. The carbide are much smoother and makes the press stroke feel much nicer. It allows me to really feel something going wrong (or right). If you do any serious volume it can be worth the extra cost.

No problem. I never said they were not good to go, but for the money Id prefer to have a set of Redding's.

This guy is just starting out and people seem to always gravitate to the most expensive option right from the start. That is why I just recommend a good steel die and run it.

[yellowfin]

I have long favored Hornady dies.  The locking rings are truly superior to those others use and the seater pushes on the ogive so it seats more uniformly and doesn't deform polymer tips.  

[dauntedfuture]

There are many good options out there.  Look for ones that have a carbide expander button or it as an option as its worth it.  I don't own carbide rifle dies and im not sure there is a need.  Don't worry about bushing dies for "normal stuff" they are sometimes more of a headache then they are worth.  I have 8-10 .223 dies and of them all I like the Foster dies the best with a carbide button and a hornady lock ring.  They size the necks just about right with LC brass and they are 25-28.00. 

Consider running a RCBS lube die in station one as a decapper; it will distribute the lube around the case, even it out a little and mop up any excess.  I have been doing this for years but I still lube with Dillon spray lube first.  Stay away from the Lee decapper as the shoulder on the decapping rod is sharp, I think redding has a nice tapered one if that's the route you want to go. 

Clean the brass well to start and lube well and let the lubed cases sit a few minutes before you run them.