Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Kaldor

Classifieds
  • Posts

    336
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kaldor

  1. Ive had really good luck with my MEC. Very smooth and plenty of leverage.
  2. I used a master power switch, and put in the reverse on a separate switch. I do use a relay board and LEDs for sensing. I guess it still works the same, I just have a master power. I also used a much better motor than the standard cheap worm drives. They list the one from Grainger which is almost a direct copy of the one MBF uses, but its pricey. Im using a straight drive motor that sticks out the bottom further, but is definitely built better than the standard cheap worm drives in use like the one on my Karl Bibb feeder, for about the same price.
  3. Thats a pretty solid remix. I have printed a self modified version of the AM feeder and it works really well, but this is superior. The only thing I did maybe a little better was my electronics. I really like the fact that he has included the SCAD for making new parts fairly easily.
  4. Probably more than 3x the price... I can damn near outrun the case feeder on my Lee APP in pistol. Rifle is a little slower. And it costs $80 when you can find one.
  5. Id do what most of the guys here are saying. Load 55s for bulk blasting out to 200, and then good 68+gr bullets for longer range or bench shooting. A quality 7 twist will shoot a 55 with no issues. For 55s there really are only 2 options IMHO. Both from Hornady, either the FMJBT, or the SP. They run about 7 cents a piece in quantity. The SPs just had their base design changed so they have a slight boat tail on them, making them much easier to load. I have switched to the SPs as they dont tear up steels as much, and they can double as a decent small game bullet. Not a bad personal defense bullet either! For 68+gr, personally I shoot alot of 68gr Hornady BTHP Match. The price is decent and you can buy them in bulk. Accuracy runs right around a 1/2" in my gun. This is one of those things where you will have to play around to see whats best for you. Ive tested everything from Hornady and Sierra up to 77gr, and I keep coming back to the 68's. Primers... A piece of advice? Ive never had a need for a magnum primer, or a milspec primer like a CC 41 in 223, ever. And that includes some pretty hot loads with some heavier bullets. Stick with standard primers. My favorites are still CC 400s. Powders? I use all Hodgdon powder, so other may have very valid points on other manufacturers. Right now I only use 3 powders for 223. H335 for 55gr blaster ammo, and 8208 XBR for accuracy loads. The 3rd, and Im transitioning to it, is CFE 223, which will be used for 55gr loads as I can likely get better velocity from it as it burns slower. All 3 of those powder will run thru a rotary drop and meter very accurately. I love Varget for my 308, but its such a PITA on a progressive when Im trying to get some work done. My brass is all range or once fired. I build accuracy loads on Lake City as its a known quantity, even if the year headstamp isnt identical. Blammo 55gr ammo is whatever comes out of the bucket.
  6. Ive never found TG to be very dirty to be honest, and Ive run my 5" M&P Pro over a 2000 rounds with TG and 147s just to see last summer over a couple of range trips. Had no issues, maintenance was minimal, just a couple of drops of oil on the slide and barrel hood before shooting. Cleanup was the same as any other powder, just hose the slide with cleaner of choice, scrub it a little, rinse with BrakeClean, grease/oil, assemble. The one thing it is is hot. Not ruin HiTek or plated bullet hot, but it will warm your gun up when you shoot 4-5 mags thru the gun in short order.
  7. Buy this: Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Powder Funnel Die $18 from Midway. I use this in combination with my CM1500 for all load workups. Probably cuts my load dev time by half. Case activated, small footprint, and the price is right.
  8. I order one day, and I have them 2 days later generally. 15k pistol bullets later, Im more than happy. They have really good CS as anyone that has gotten in touch with them can attest to.
  9. Ive never been a big fan of the expanders that Hornady has, so I switched to a Lyman M-die. You have to expand less, but makes for easier seating. Might be worth your while. I use a FCD for alot of calibers, and the only thing I can say on the FCD is start with as minimal crimp as you can get away with. Over crimping is worse that under crimping.
  10. Im not really interested in the swaging dies, but I did talk to Wayne (owner) quite a bit on Facebook messenger. My biggest issues with decapping are dealing with flash holes that are slightly off center, and maybe some that are undersized for SP 45 brass. The off center brass is dealt with by letting the pin pull a slight offset to deal with this, and you can use a smaller diameter pin for decapping small flash holed cases. Im not in a hurry to buy, as I probably wont run a big decapping run until November, but at that time, I will be picking one up for running in my LnL for big runs of brass.
  11. What about trying Win 572? Looks to be about the same burn rate as 3N38 and AA#7?
  12. Thanks! My only concern was cup thickness to be honest. The 400s are .020" and the 500s are .017". Supposedly the Win LPP are .020". I think it will fire them, because both guns have seen plenty of Win LPPs. So I guess I know what Ill be doing tonite
  13. I know a few guys around here use SRPs of various manufacture for other pistol calibers. I have a ton of CCI 400 primers on hand and a few thousand pieces of SP 45 brass. Anyone see any issue with using these? Id obviously work this up, but does anyone see any issues that could happen mechanics wise? Would be shot from a M&P 2.0 and a 1911.
  14. If its 50 or 100, Id just shoot them up. At that point you have to decide if your time and possibly needing to buy the collet for the puller is worth it vs how much youll save by pulling them.
  15. Are they TMKs? If so, Id pull them. Price bullets to just piss away. Hornady puller works great in a SS press. I pulled 100 308 in about 15 minutes a few months ago.
  16. Id be one of those guys. Ive run my LnL over 60k rounds now and other than the case feeder, Id put money on it that works just as well as a 650. For some things its better, for some its worse. That being said, I will probably buy a 650 as I want some of the capabilities on that press that my LnL wont do, namely on press swaging with a SwagIt. I dont have a problem with having red and blue on my bench. Buy what you want. Every press has its little gotchas.
  17. I wrapped clear packing tape around the tube to tighten it up when putting it in. That way I can still get it apart to clean it if need be. And yes, I had the tube pop off when it was about 1/2 full of TG. What a mess...
  18. The most coverage Ive seen for issues with this press are on AR15.com in the reloading forum. Lets just say most people are less than enthusiastic for the issues this press has. The only thing I have seen is that the redesigned slides are more durable, but be sure you have more than a single extra spare. My take on it is that RCBS had a chance to clean sheet design a modern progressive press taking the best parts of alot of different designs, and sell something that was really good. I am in the market for a new progressive, and the PC 7 was on the list, key word being was.
  19. @Chills1994 I run pretty much the same setup. Hornady sizing die without expander when I prep. Then I use a Lyman M-die in my press right before loading to set neck tension. Its like a ghetto mandrel loading setup.
  20. If using with lighter bullets like 115's, yeah, for sure. But for fat slow bullets like 147's, a fast burning powder creates a very low recoil impulse. On my M&P Pro 5", 3.1gr of TG with 147s makes the cases dribble out the side of the gun. Its so low a recoil impulse if you limp wrist the gun, it will cause a FTE/FTF problem.
  21. Im a single dad of a couple of kids, 8 YO daughter and a 13 YO son, so anything fun that I want takes a back seat. My kids both started shooting at 7 or 8. And my son is 13 and can field strip my ARs and knows how to reload. Hes my designated brass processing partner, IE handle puller for decap and sizing runs. And he can shoot, putting about 4k a year thru my ARs and pistols, so its funny watching him school people on a consistent basis. I agree with you 100%, but you can remove the SwageIt and it leaves no marks that will clue Dillon into the fact youve been swaging. Reports have shown that it takes about the same force to seat a primer as it does to swage a case.
  22. Mine as well. H4895, Varget, and 8208 XBR for me. 8208 because I can load with that powder on a progressive with a rotary drop.
  23. Yup, I first pass all my 308 which starts out as LC 7.62x51 MG brass on my Hornady single stage. And having a turret or single around is great for oddball stuff. I actually have 2. My second single is a Lee C press I use just for decapping crusty range brass. For $28 and a $8 decapping die it was hard to go wrong I load about 400-500 an hour on my LnL with a case feeder and setting bullets by hand without pushing too hard, so 4-5 hours total for 2000. Yes, the 1050 is the Caddy of presses, but with a 650 with a case and bullet feeder, Id say 700+ per hour is completely doable but you better be paying attention. And for the record, Id really like to own a 1050, but I also have 2 kids that require food, lol. I agree the priming system on the 1050 and the LnL are superior as they are case activated, but the 650 works just fine once you get into production. More consistent is arguable, as long as the primer seating is consistent and they are below flush, they are good to go, and any press, set up correctly, should be able to do that. I wouldnt load match ammo on a progressive, but Ive gotten some very good results on mine.
×
×
  • Create New...