Can someone explain bullet types to me?

[jebeckjr]

Hi everyone,

At some point in the future, I'll be trying my hand at reloading. I've been acquiring the proper equipment, and will be setting up my workspace soon.

I shoot 9mm exclusively for handgun, primarily out of Sig's: P226 and P320, and less often my Glocks.

I've been looking at load data, and reading the different 9mm production load data posts on this site. I see references made to "blue bullets", "berry bullets", etc. As best as I can tell, the main difference is between coated bullets and plated bullets. Is that right? Are posted bullets another way of saying FMJ, or is that another variety?

Where does one start? Are coated bullets (like blue bullets) safe for all firearms (especially the Sig's and Glocks I shoot)? Are there advantages / disadvantages over one type from the other? Is accuracy better one way or the other?

I did try and search for this, but my results through Tapatalk didn't get specific comparing the types, that I could tell. Any advice / guidance is appreciated! I do have a friend that will help me get setup and reloading safely, but he didn't know the answers to my questions about bullet types. He primarily loads .45's, and casts his own lead.

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[pskys2]

Berry Bullets are made by Berry Manufacturing and are a Plated Bullets there are many who make plated bullets Xtreme, Ranier, Berry to name a few. They are a soft lead bullet with a plating of copper, unlike a traditional Jacketed bullet which has a copper jacket that lead is forced into.

Blue Bullets are a poly/moly coated lead bullet, this is done by dipping a cast lead bullet into a coating in lieu of using bullet lube. There are many Bayou, BBI, Blue Bullets, Precision uses a swaged/soft lead core with a moly/poly coating applied.

Some guns/barrels do not like Plated bullets, from what I've heard the better poly/moly (they are not all the same) bullets don't give any problems in Glock type barrels. Most guns will shoot the poly/moly coated bullets the same as lead bullets with similar charges/velocities.

[9x45]

My load for my Glocks, both OEM and BarSto's, are 4.2 grs TiteGroup, at 1.100" to 1.130" OAL with 125 gr Bayous and Black and Blue coated, they go about 1,180 fps. In my experience Blue Berry bullets suck

Edited May 2, 2016 by 9x45

[blackhand]

Full-metal Jacket, FMJ, bullets will be more expensive compared to plated, coated, and cast lead bullets. FMJ loads will usually require more powder to reach the same velocity as loads with coated or lead bullets, but the difference in powder charges amounts to fractions of a cent. Depending on your gun, load, and other factors, you'll get comparable accuracy from all the bullet types. Generally, jacketed hollow-point bullets will be more accurate than the bullet types mentioned.

Plated bullets use an electroplating process to put a thin copper plating over a swaged or cast lead core. Some companies re-size the bullets after plating for greater consistency. One benefit is that the entire bullet is plated, leaving no exposed lead like you'd find in an FMJ bullet. The plating tends to be thinner than the copper jacket of an FMJ bullet. You need to be more careful crimping plated bullets or you can cut through the plating, which can cause excessive smoke when firing these rounds and other issues. Plated bullets are usually cheaper than FMJ bullets.

Coated bullets use a polymer coating over a swaged or cast lead bullet. Most companies offering coated bullets use Hi-Tek coating. The entire bullet is coated, so no exposed lead. Though the coating is very thin, I've found it to be more resilient than the plating on plated bullets. Some powders produce more smoke and a burning smell when used with coated bullets. Coated bullets are usually less expensive than FMJ and plated bullets. Coated bullets are safe to shoot through factory Glock barrels.

Lead bullets are the cheapest bullets of all the options. Most cast lead bullets will have grooves for lube. The lube can fall or run out of those grooves and make a mess. Glock says not to shoot bare lead bullets through factory barrels. Plus, you may not like the idea of handling bare lead.

For range use, practice, and competition, I find that coated bullets fit the bill. They're usually cheaper than FMJ and plated bullets, require less powder to reach the same velocity, have no exposed lead, are safe to shoot through Glocks (which I shoot primarily), and are very accurate. It was reading through these forums that convinced me to load with coated bullets.

[jebeckjr]

Wow, thanks for the great replies and information! One more question: when looking at the load data for the powders (take N320 for example), none of the seem to mention the coated bullets. Where do I start for a 125-130 grain blue bullet load using n320, or TG?

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[Hi-Power Jack]

Start LOW, and work up, SLOWLY, with a Chronograph.

[Sarge]

Wow, thanks for the great replies and information! One more question: when looking at the load data for the powders (take N320 for example), none of the seem to mention the coated bullets. Where do I start for a 125-130 grain blue bullet load using n320, or TG?

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Use lead bullet of same general shape recipe