johnson184 Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Been going to a local reloading shop for advice and help. Fella helping me was pretty adamant I get Lee die sets for 9mm, .45ACP, and .223 for my Dillon 1050 I have ordered in .308. Wondering what the difference in the popular die sets are. I think he said the Lee die sets were about 2/3 the cost of a Dillon die set and superior in performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I don't think I use a single die "set" for any caliber. Maybe my 45 set is actually a full Lee set. For everything else I use a mixture of dies depending on what I need/like. For example in 40 I use lee sizing die, dillon powder die, redding (I think?) sitting die, and a Dillon crimp die. For .223 I'm even worse, RBCS x-die sizer, Forster sitting die, Lee crimp. So you can certainly just buy a set and use it, and Lee's dies work, but don't be surprised if you keep changing them out for that "perfect" combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson184 Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 So this may be a really stupid question... but how do you know which one you prefer/like? Just eyeballing the dies, I can't really see a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I like the lee dies a lot (550 and 650 user here) and agree they make good ammo. One thing they do is size farther down on the case, which is both good and bad. The good part is that the finished ammo has fewer rejects when gauging, the bad is that the funnel lead-in feature on the sizing die is smaller than other brands. So, if you are running a progressive and the case is leaning or not completely centered you will probably crush the case with the die. On a 550/650 I can feel the occasional hang up, stop, and tap the case so it is centered and continue. On a 1050 I think it is a little more difficult to interrupt the down stroke to align the case. The Dillon sizer has a very generous lead-in feature to align the case to the die to prevent this. So, as Vlad said you might want to mix and match your dies to match your needs. I'm sure real 1050 users will chime in soon with what they find works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 When I loaded rifle rounds on a 1050, i had a whole mish-mash of dies. As for pistol, I have used the Dillon size & crimp but a Redding Comp seating die. As for the Lee dies, I think they are just fine. I know many here use the EGW Undersize dies as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I have a lot of Lee dies also a bunch of other manufacturers as well. Lee are as low buck as it gets and they more often than not work fine. I prefer the built in stuck case remover on Dillon rifle dies to any other die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 So this may be a really stupid question... but how do you know which one you prefer/like? Just eyeballing the dies, I can't really see a difference. Well for example you might a different type of crimp that the Lee crimp die which can cut into plated or moly/plastic bullets. You might want a micrometer adjustable sitting die either because you are loading different bullet profiles or length and you want to change often, or maybe because you don't like how consistent the Lee sitter is with your chosen bullet profile. There is nothing wrong with buying a set of lee dies, making a few thousand rounds, then looking back back and asking yourself what you wish would work differently and then looking for the individual dies that do what you want. Its kinda like buying a set of kitchen knives and silverware, go buy the "new homeowner" set at Walmart, and then add and replace as you know what you prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasley Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I have at least one set of every brand. They all work. I think Redding dies are worth the premium price. Lee is my least favorite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson184 Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I have at least one set of every brand. They all work. I think Redding dies are worth the premium price. Lee is my least favorite. Which Redding set do you like? They seem to go up to the $165 mark for their competition die set. I don't mind paying more for quality, but I'm just not sure I'd know how to use all the features it offers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasley Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I don't have any with the micrometer seating die although I think it would be handy for some applications and overkill for others. If you should happen to buy Redding pistol dies make sure you order the right ones. They have one set that has an expander die (which you won't need for the 1050) and the other set exchanges the expander die for a separate crimp die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfalcon00 Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I like my Lee dies for pistol. I run the four die set so I can seat and crimp in separate steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwall64 Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I have always used RCBS dies in single stage and turret presses. Then when I purchased my 650 from Brian he recommended against using them due to the sizing die being squared off on the carbide ring versus the bevel on the Dillon dies. I bought the Dillon and they are nice dies. On several calibers I have bought the Redding Competition Pro dies (ones with micrometer seating die) and they are very nice. They are probably not needed, but it sure is nice to be able to dial in the bullet seating versus trying to adjust a normal seating die! I just recently bought a Foster's micrometer seating die for .223 and it is also very nice and a little cheaper than the comparable Redding. They all work, if they don't return them, just depends on features you think you would like... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rod Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 As mentioned, once you use a few different brands you tend to find your preferences. I like the bevel on the bottom of the Dillon sizing dies which helps if your case isn't exactly centered. The micrometer adjustment on the Hornady seating dies and others is great if you use multiple brands of bullets and need to tweak the OAL without breaking out the wrench. Some brands also are easier to break down for cleaning, if you happen to do that, and others are easy to disassemble if you happen to break the decap pins. For someone just geting started, I recommend buying pretty much any name brand dies on sale and, if possible, buy two different brands. I think several of my toolheads have a different brand of die in each station. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PKT1106 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I have used the Lee Carbide dies for 9mm, 40s&w and 45ac with no issues. I have had Lee dies for 223, 243, 30-30, 270 & 308 with no issues as well, but prefer some other brands for precision loading. As long as you use lube properly, Lee dies will be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotbike Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) I have 2-1050's, a 650, a 550 and a T7 Turret. For my main pistol calibers (.9mm, .40 S&W & .45ACP) I use the exact same die assortment. EGW U-die, RCBS Lock-out die, Redding Competition Micrometer Seating die and Redding Competition Micrometer Crimp die. Edited September 11, 2015 by Slotbike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson184 Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 I have 2-1050's, a 650, a 550 and a T7 Turret. For my main pistol calibers (.9mm, .40 S&W & .45ACP) I use the exact same die assortment. EGW U-die, RCBS Lock-out die, Redding Competition Micrometer Seating die and Redding Competition Micrometer Crimp die. Awesome! Really appreciate you laying exactly which dies you like. I think I'm going to go with those for 9mm and .45ACP. Do you load any .223 on your 1050? Any die preferences there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotbike Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I have 2-1050's, a 650, a 550 and a T7 Turret. For my main pistol calibers (.9mm, .40 S&W & .45ACP) I use the exact same die assortment. EGW U-die, RCBS Lock-out die, Redding Competition Micrometer Seating die and Redding Competition Micrometer Crimp die. Awesome! Really appreciate you laying exactly which dies you like. I think I'm going to go with those for 9mm and .45ACP. Do you load any .223 on your 1050? Any die preferences there? Yup, Redding small base full length size die, Redding Micrometer Seating and crimp dies also. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson184 Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Any downsides to using undersized or small base dies? Wondering why they don't offer any sets with them. Can't seem to find any drawbacks with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotbike Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Any downsides to using undersized or small base dies? Wondering why they don't offer any sets with them. Can't seem to find any drawbacks with them. I have over 150 handguns and I want my ammo to chamber in any gun I want to shoot. I have some guns like Wilson Combat's, etc. and other high end ones that just have extremely tight chambers. The die set that I use along with a shockbottle 100 round gauge, if it passes the Shockbottle, it feeds and shoots in any gun I own. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson184 Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 What case gage do you use for .223? And I was looking at those... was debating between the Hundo or the EGW. Didn't realize there was another option lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I use the dillon one for .223 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotbike Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 What case gage do you use for .223? And I was looking at those... was debating between the Hundo or the EGW. Didn't realize there was another option lol. I have Dillon gauges for all 11 calibers that I reload. For pistol, I have found the Shockbottle gauges to have tighter tolerances. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfalcon00 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yeah that seems to be the consensus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotbike Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yeah that seems to be the consensus. I have rounds that easily drop in/out of my Dillon .9mm gauge. I was getting failures to go into battery on a few of my guns "including" a Glock 34 (which really stumped me). Those same rounds that gauged in the Dillon gauge, weren't even close to gauging in the Shockbottle. When I sent Dillon an email about it.....after 2 weeks, they replied and didn't seem to really have that "Dillon" care and courtesy that I have always experienced. As the owner of 4 Dillon presses, 2 RF 100's, a Super swage 600 and almost everything "Blue" that they make, I was disappointed, to say the least! The "out of spec" gauge could have caused some serious (and possibly deadly) results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolton916 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) Dillon machines, Lee decapping/sizing, Dillon powder dies. Redding mic seaters and Lee roll crimp for 45ACP. I don't crimp 9 or 223. My .338 lapua, 6.5 Grendal and 7mm use all Redding sets. For gauges I use the tightest chamber barrel I have for each caliber, except for the 223 Wyldes, Those get built for each gun separately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 12, 2015 by dolton916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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