1eyedfatman Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I've only been reloading for about 6 months and only with 9mm. I've finally got things where I like them with the 9mm and my rounds for IDPA/USPSA/etc are performing well. I worked through getting the crimp correct and ending the tumbles/keyholes. I'm starting to trying different powders to play with feel and power factor but all I have to change there is the powder and powder measure. The used Dillon I bought came with everything needed to reload .40 as well including another toolhead, powder measure, dies, shell plate, etc. Given I don't have to touch my 9mm dies and can do a quick change with the toolhead, is going back and forth between the two calibers pretty easy and one would expect everything would be the same as before with the previous loaded round? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rishii Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Yes, Once you switch out all the conversion parts, I would just confirm your powder charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 After swapping everything I weigh the charge and then grab the caliper because it's right there on the bench. I've never had to adjust the dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Some things I have learned: Hornady locking rings...I use them for all my dies. Set them once and be done with it. Never any problems and you can mount and dismount the dies from the toolheads with no issues. I have two toolheads and load a bunch of different calibers switching back and forth between caliber that use the same primer size. You are aware that the 9 and 40 use the same shellplate and shellholder pins in a Dillon. Bought from scratch you'd buy a 40/10 and 380/38supercomp conversion kit to load 10-40-9-38-380. Always consult the Enos crossover charts! Remember to check your powder charge every time you caliber convert as well as the setting of the reset lever spring system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstagn Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Once I am sure everything is set, crimp, seating depth, flair (bell) I use green locktite in the locking ring area because on rare occasions I have had the locking rings come loose. As Forrest stated, always double check everything after you change over. Its also not a bad idea to check everything once every couple hundred/thousand rounds just to be sure. I have complete change over kit including powder measure on a Dillion 650..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDA Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Torque Seal is not a bad option. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/f900.php Easy to see if anything moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Its also not a bad idea to check everything once every couple hundred/thousand rounds just to be sure. I have complete change over kit including powder measure on a Dillion 650..... Sometimes the dies will loosen in the tool head. As I put mine in place with an adjustable wrench...it can happen to you! Worst offender is sizing die followed by seating. Extra powder measure.....oooh ahhhh.....Great idea when the rounds use different powders. How do you get the toolhead off without loosening or removing the powder measure? The powder reset rod on my 550 is not very easy to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorfish Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 You are aware that the 9 and 40 use the same shellplate and shellholder pins in a Dillon. I thinking this is typo... Do you mean 10mm and 40 S&W? 9mm and 40 S&W caliber conversions share no common parts unless you consider the case feed plate and even then, I've had better luck using the small pistol casefeeder plate for 9mm and the large pistol casefeeder plate for 40 S&W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstagn Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Like the torque seal option, I just use a marking pen to indicate if anything moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gcountry Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 You are aware that the 9 and 40 use the same shellplate and shellholder pins in a Dillon. I thinking this is typo... Do you mean 10mm and 40 S&W? 9mm and 40 S&W caliber conversions share no common parts unless you consider the case feed plate and even then, I've had better luck using the small pistol casefeeder plate for 9mm and the large pistol casefeeder plate for 40 S&W. What he said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aggieddad02 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 From my understanding and speaking with fellow reloaders, on a 550 the 9 and 40 use the same shell plate with different pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Oops yeah 550...sorry reading glasses cleaned. Sorry I was mistaken. Finally thank you for reminding me that I needed to change the locator buttons for 9mm I have loaded some ammo with the wrong buttons recently. Thanks! Edited August 6, 2015 by Forrest Halley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfalcon00 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Torque Seal is not a bad option. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/f900.php Easy to see if anything moved. I like that idea I'll have to give it a go. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and guess you're an A&P haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 I use that clamp kit that Uniquetek sells along with floating die toolheads and separate powder feeders on my 550 for all of my caliber conversions. It adds an extra minute to the swap but it adds to the consistency of my loads since the gap where the toolhead sits is eliminated. I use the shellplate from the 9mm and switch out to the #2 pins for the .40. I also swap out the station 1 locator and the plastic tube feeder thing. I have had no issues with the small plate on my case feeder feeding the .40 so I leave it on. All in all, I can do a complete swap in less than 5 minutes if I take my time. The process is basically the same going from 9mm to 38 super or 10mm as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gcountry Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 You load 40 using a 9mm shell plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash74 Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) You load 40 using a 9mm shell plate? Yep, just change out the buttons, and of course the dies. Edited September 19, 2015 by Flash74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 You load 40 using a 9mm shell plate? Yep, just change out the buttons, and of course the dies. +1... I do the same on my 550b. ~g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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