Ace4059 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I purchased the Dillon super 1050 in March for reloading 223. I am currently having problems with the primer feeding system. I have about 6-10 primers per 100 that are either crushed, primed sideways, or no primer at all. The primers are hanging up in the slide bar for some reason. This is frustrating because when the primer does not seat in the pocket then with the next station being the powder station, makes a large mess with powder free flowing all over the press. So I have to clean the 1050 by completely disassembling it every 200 rounds or so. This makes for slow reloading. I been reading about some primer problems with the 1050 over the last few nights and I am still at a loss. Here were the common issues that people found and my observations; The slide bar that feeds the primers is smooth, with no burs. The primer rod is for small primers so they are not turning over in the tube. I am using all LC brass and I am having to swager them to a little larger pocket then what I like to. Ive tried adjusting the swagger looser and tighter and still have the problems. Neither settings help. The bottom of the primer tube that has the blue feeder does have a small bur but nothing that I would think would cause problems. I have also adjusted the case holder (the white plastic that holds the case in the shell plate). I have noticed when the primer has problems seating, it pushes the case over to the left and I and feel it in the handle. I can see the case mouth touch the side of the hole in station #3 at the 9 o'clock position and I know I have a crushed primer. I have also observed that on some the primer will shoot out the bottom of the slide and I know that case did not receive a primer. I have gotten better at catching these hints of a "bad prime" Here is the kicker, all the brass primes flawlessly in my 650. I know it is a completely different setup but that shows the pockets and primers are within tolerance. The only adjustment I did with the 1050 was for the primer seating depth when I first purchased the machine. The primers were seating outside the case (not deep enough) so I adjusted it where it would seat the primers flush with the case. The primers are not seating in too far and the primers that do seat are not crushed nor flattened. So when the primers do seat, its correct. I am using CCI #41 and TULA 556m primers. Currently reloading with the 650 is faster but I hate swagging each round by hand, so I would like some suggestions on getting this up and running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansedgli Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Have you tightened the shell plate enough? Tighten it all the way down then loosen the lock ring 1/8th. You are not supposed to be able to feel play if you push down on the plate under the seating die. If that doesn't stop the play then the backup rod in the swager might need to go down further. Good luck. I chased my tail for a while too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Do you have the primer pocket swage rod properly adjusted? Do you have the white/clear plastic tab on station 4 (priming station) touching the case? Is the shell plate down tight? Have you called Dillon and have them walk you through things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) There is a good chance your swage backup rod and swage depth is not properly set. A cut-away case with a crimped primer pocket and a swage gauge help a LOT to get this right. This post in particular helped me a LOT. The other really helpful thing was tapering and polishing the decapping pin so as to reduce sucking spent primers back into the primer pocket, swaging them in, then trying to seat a live primer on top - which can push the case partially out of the shell plate which is then crushed by the powder funnel which....OK OK you get the idea. Don't do that. Edited June 20, 2015 by Beastly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentedr Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Another point of failure could be the primer tube mount not being lined up with the primer slide when the slide is fully back. I found after fixing all of what has been mentioned above I was still having problems. With the slide fully back shine a light between the slide and the primer tube and look down the primer tube from above and check alignment. If necessary loosen the two Allen screws and move the primer tube holder so it aligns perfectly to drop the primers straight down into the slide. This may not be your issue but it is something else to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayBar Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Have you replaced the primer magazine orifice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayBar Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 The bottom of the primer tube that has the blue feeder does have a small bur but nothing that I would think would cause problems. I bet that's your problem.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace4059 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Have you tightened the shell plate enough? Tighten it all the way down then loosen the lock ring 1/8th. You are not supposed to be able to feel play if you push down on the plate under the seating die. If that doesn't stop the play then the backup rod in the swager might need to go down further. Good luck. I chased my tail for a while too. I have the plate tighten as tight as I can get it and still have the shell plate turn when I opperate the handle. I have tried it a little loose and tight with several settings in between. The tighter it is the better/less problems I am having. But still doesn't fix it. Do you have the primer pocket swage rod properly adjusted? Do you have the white/clear plastic tab on station 4 (priming station) touching the case? Is the shell plate down tight? Have you called Dillon and have them walk you through things? I have not mess with or adjusted the swage rod that has the down pressure. Ive only adjusted the swagger rod that actually goes into the primer pocket. I have tried several settings with this also. Ill try calling dillon and see if they have any advice. There is a good chance your swage backup rod and swage depth is not properly set. A cut-away case with a crimped primer pocket and a swage gauge help a LOT to get this right. This post in particular helped me a LOT. The other really helpful thing was tapering and polishing the decapping pin so as to reduce sucking spent primers back into the primer pocket, swaging them in, then trying to seat a live primer on top - which can push the case partially out of the shell plate which is then crushed by the powder funnel which....OK OK you get the idea. Don't do that. I have not had any problems with it pulling the spent primers back into the primer pocket. Ill ave to cut a case to see if the back pressure swage rod is adjusted correctly. Another point of failure could be the primer tube mount not being lined up with the primer slide when the slide is fully back. I found after fixing all of what has been mentioned above I was still having problems. With the slide fully back shine a light between the slide and the primer tube and look down the primer tube from above and check alignment. If necessary loosen the two Allen screws and move the primer tube holder so it aligns perfectly to drop the primers straight down into the slide. This may not be your issue but it is something else to look at. I took this apart today and looked at it again. I reassembled it and i seems to be set correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace4059 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Have you replaced the primer magazine orifice? Ill call dillon monday and see if I can get replacements since this machine is only a few months old. Ill see if I can get replacements for all the primer parts and just change everything out. I played with the machine yesterday and did more adjustments today and I still haven't identified the specific problem. But yes it has improved on the failure rate but I am still getting hard resistance in the primer station and it is pushing the case over to the 9 o'clock position when priming. I have the white plate that holds the brass into the shell plate as tight as I can get it by hand. On another note, The spring that holds the tool head up seems to be getting weak. Its letting the tool head sag down about 1 inch, only a few thousand rounds have been ran through this machine. And I did identify another problem I was having. The rod at the crimping station that aligns the shell holder was catching at that station. I adjusted the tool head and it is now smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 The life span of the tool head springs is surprisingly short. I bought a couple of spares before I learned that there is an aftermarket spring that is supposedly more powerful and robust. Get plenty of spare primer tube orifice tips (and decapper e-rings) Swage adjustment accounted for most of my priming issues, including eating up orifice tips with primer malfunctions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 probably 90% of the time, the problem you are describing is related to to light of a swage. Increase swage and see how it runs, 1/4 of a turn on the adjustment can mean the difference. jmho jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 The swage backup rod has to be set properly as well - its easy to focus on swage depth and leave an incorrectly set swage backup rod to foul the process. When I finally got this right I could run 100 in 2.5 minutes - before then I was hamstrung by intermittent failures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I would still add 1/4 turn to the swage rod, unless you have the go/no go gauge for primer pockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace4059 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 The swage backer rod that goes into the case was loose. I had to turn it 3 full turns for it to touch the base of the inside of the shell. I readjusted the swage rod that goes into the primer pocket and did not have any crushed primers. I could still feel resistance in the primer station but I had no crushed primers. I might turn the rod another 1/8 turn to swage a little more but I dont want to swage too much and have loose primer pockets. Guess I need to purchase a go-no go pocket gauge. So far I ran 100 rounds through and its good to go. Thanks guys. I didnt know that the swage backup rod that goes into the case could cause these problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 VICTORY!!! I was a MUCH happier camper once I figured this out. FYI I still had to adjust the swage rod deeper than I ever had it to get it running 100% - and I have a swage gauge. Dear Dillon - the '1050 is set up for 9mm at the factory' appears to be leaving this step out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 The swage backer rod that goes into the case was loose. I had to turn it 3 full turns for it to touch the base of the inside of the shell. I readjusted the swage rod that goes into the primer pocket and did not have any crushed primers. I could still feel resistance in the primer station but I had no crushed primers. I might turn the rod another 1/8 turn to swage a little more but I dont want to swage too much and have loose primer pockets. Guess I need to purchase a go-no go pocket gauge. So far I ran 100 rounds through and its good to go. Thanks guys. I didnt know that the swage backup rod that goes into the case could cause these problems. 1. You don't want the swage rod to bottom out in the case, shouldn't need it that deep. If so I would grind a bit off the end of the swage rod. You can crack or brake the swage rod or hold down. 2. The swage rod is designed in such a way that you really can't create loose primer pockets. 3. Swaging without a go-nogo gauge is like walking across your living room with your eyes closed. You will probably get there, but it's much easier with your eyes open. jmho jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonofVa Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 You said: "I have the white plate that holds the brass into the shell plate as tight as I can get it by hand." This is too tight. The white plate should not be up against the brass,there should be "business" card distance between the white tab and the brass, or maybe just a hair tighter. Not touching and not more than a business card away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Excellent point and I missed this. If the white plate is too tight the case cannot center itself during primer insertion. Did Dillon ever come out with the clear plate I heard about a while back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I posted this back in April on another thread, but it may need to be be reposted here... A little blue birdy turned me onto this... in the spare parts kit for a 550, there is a part called a Cartridge Spring, #13926. it looks like a paper clip, and it is the top left item in the picture of the 550 parts kit. order a couple. When they arrive; On the 1050, remove the white plastic piece from the primer seating station that holds the case in place, and with the long end sticking outward toward the right, fasten the clip down with the screw with a case in the station with the normal amount of play. With a strong wire cutter, cut off any excess of the spring clip so the handle doesn't hit it during cycling. now you can see the primers in the primer slide... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I posted this back in April on another thread, but it may need to be be reposted here... A little blue birdy turned me onto this... in the spare parts kit for a 550, there is a part called a Cartridge Spring, #13926. it looks like a paper clip, and it is the top left item in the picture of the 550 parts kit. order a couple. When they arrive; On the 1050, remove the white plastic piece from the primer seating station that holds the case in place, and with the long end sticking outward toward the right, fasten the clip down with the screw with a case in the station with the normal amount of play. With a strong wire cutter, cut off any excess of the spring clip so the handle doesn't hit it during cycling. now you can see the primers in the primer slide... jj Interesting, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace4059 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 I posted this back in April on another thread, but it may need to be be reposted here... A little blue birdy turned me onto this... in the spare parts kit for a 550, there is a part called a Cartridge Spring, #13926. it looks like a paper clip, and it is the top left item in the picture of the 550 parts kit. order a couple. When they arrive; On the 1050, remove the white plastic piece from the primer seating station that holds the case in place, and with the long end sticking outward toward the right, fasten the clip down with the screw with a case in the station with the normal amount of play. With a strong wire cutter, cut off any excess of the spring clip so the handle doesn't hit it during cycling. now you can see the primers in the primer slide... jj Pictures please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace4059 Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 I reloaded about 400 rds today and about 1 in 40 I had problems with the primer. Which I would have to stop and take the machine apart and clean it each time do to powder spills. Which this took a few hrs to reload 400 rds. I found the bag of extra parts and changed everything out that had to anything with the priming system, including springs. I am kinda lost again. When I first got the machine (bought it new) I had some feeding problems and got a case lodged in the machine. I had a hang up in one station and I tried forcing it open (I didn't realize the catcher bar on the back to keep it from short stroking) so maybe I bent the machine or caused some other problems. It started catching after I got rough with it but I adjust the toolhead a little counter clockwise and it smoothed out. The rod between the case crimper and the case feeder station was rubbing on the shell plate there, but only catching when there was a case in station #1 and #2. So I adjusted the too head so it doesn't rub and that fixed the "catch" or "pop" causing the rough up stroke. That problem was here along with the case feeder problem (which new case feeder fixed the problem). Could there be something else that is wrong with the machine causing these primer feeding problems? I have almost came to the conclusion that I am going to have bad primer feeding for 2-3 per 100 reloads I do with this machine. And as far as the swage rod adjustment, I would say I have it adjusted where it swages a little on the loose side. I hand loaded several primers with ease and no force to seat the primer. If any of my match brass primed that easy then I toss it because of the loose primer pocket. So I know the primer is not trying to be seated in an undersized primer pocket. This is just frustrating to spend this much and have a machine that has a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I am noy sure what's going on but I can assure you the machine can be configured to run MUCH cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Doc Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I used a dremmel to cut a casing to properly adjust the depth of the upper rod and swage rod on station 3. No more crushed primers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Another point of failure could be the primer tube mount not being lined up with the primer slide when the slide is fully back. I found after fixing all of what has been mentioned above I was still having problems. With the slide fully back shine a light between the slide and the primer tube and look down the primer tube from above and check alignment. If necessary loosen the two Allen screws and move the primer tube holder so it aligns perfectly to drop the primers straight down into the slide. This may not be your issue but it is something else to look at. ^^^^this. you said you took it apart and put it back together. Get a surefire and shine it in and look down the tube. It has to line up perfectly. Get some metal shims and adjust it (the bolt that holds on the half moon thing on the primer slide stop). This is what causes smashed primers most of the time IMO. There is a huge thread on these issues http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169411. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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