Ace4059

Here is an update so if someone has the same question later on, they will be able to find an answer on the web. An RCBS engineer contacted me back and he said they ship with the fan centered. He said you may be more aggressive cleaning with it offset but the tumbler may "walk".

I burned up my motor in my vibratory RCBS tumbler and removed it to buy another motor from RCBS. Well RCBS was gracious enough to send me a new motor free of charge (it was out of warranty by 6 years). Great job RCBS on the CS. I was installing the motor tonight and it will install two ways. With the fan over the main screw that holds the bowl on, or offset by 2" where the fan is closer to the outside of the bowl. Can someone look at the bottom of their RCBS tumbler and see through the vent holes if the fan is centered or offset to the main screw that holds the bowl on? That would be greatly appreciated. I knew I should have took a picture before I took it all apart. Thanks A pic would be even better.

I reloaded about 400 rds today and about 1 in 40 I had problems with the primer. Which I would have to stop and take the machine apart and clean it each time do to powder spills. Which this took a few hrs to reload 400 rds. I found the bag of extra parts and changed everything out that had to anything with the priming system, including springs. I am kinda lost again. When I first got the machine (bought it new) I had some feeding problems and got a case lodged in the machine. I had a hang up in one station and I tried forcing it open (I didn't realize the catcher bar on the back to keep it from short stroking) so maybe I bent the machine or caused some other problems. It started catching after I got rough with it but I adjust the toolhead a little counter clockwise and it smoothed out. The rod between the case crimper and the case feeder station was rubbing on the shell plate there, but only catching when there was a case in station #1 and #2. So I adjusted the too head so it doesn't rub and that fixed the "catch" or "pop" causing the rough up stroke. That problem was here along with the case feeder problem (which new case feeder fixed the problem). Could there be something else that is wrong with the machine causing these primer feeding problems? I have almost came to the conclusion that I am going to have bad primer feeding for 2-3 per 100 reloads I do with this machine. And as far as the swage rod adjustment, I would say I have it adjusted where it swages a little on the loose side. I hand loaded several primers with ease and no force to seat the primer. If any of my match brass primed that easy then I toss it because of the loose primer pocket. So I know the primer is not trying to be seated in an undersized primer pocket. This is just frustrating to spend this much and have a machine that has a problem.

Pictures please

The swage backer rod that goes into the case was loose. I had to turn it 3 full turns for it to touch the base of the inside of the shell. I readjusted the swage rod that goes into the primer pocket and did not have any crushed primers. I could still feel resistance in the primer station but I had no crushed primers. I might turn the rod another 1/8 turn to swage a little more but I dont want to swage too much and have loose primer pockets. Guess I need to purchase a go-no go pocket gauge. So far I ran 100 rounds through and its good to go. Thanks guys. I didnt know that the swage backup rod that goes into the case could cause these problems.

Ill call dillon monday and see if I can get replacements since this machine is only a few months old. Ill see if I can get replacements for all the primer parts and just change everything out. I played with the machine yesterday and did more adjustments today and I still haven't identified the specific problem. But yes it has improved on the failure rate but I am still getting hard resistance in the primer station and it is pushing the case over to the 9 o'clock position when priming. I have the white plate that holds the brass into the shell plate as tight as I can get it by hand. On another note, The spring that holds the tool head up seems to be getting weak. Its letting the tool head sag down about 1 inch, only a few thousand rounds have been ran through this machine. And I did identify another problem I was having. The rod at the crimping station that aligns the shell holder was catching at that station. I adjusted the tool head and it is now smooth.

I have the plate tighten as tight as I can get it and still have the shell plate turn when I opperate the handle. I have tried it a little loose and tight with several settings in between. The tighter it is the better/less problems I am having. But still doesn't fix it. I have not mess with or adjusted the swage rod that has the down pressure. Ive only adjusted the swagger rod that actually goes into the primer pocket. I have tried several settings with this also. Ill try calling dillon and see if they have any advice. I have not had any problems with it pulling the spent primers back into the primer pocket. Ill ave to cut a case to see if the back pressure swage rod is adjusted correctly. I took this apart today and looked at it again. I reassembled it and i seems to be set correctly.

I purchased the Dillon super 1050 in March for reloading 223. I am currently having problems with the primer feeding system. I have about 6-10 primers per 100 that are either crushed, primed sideways, or no primer at all. The primers are hanging up in the slide bar for some reason. This is frustrating because when the primer does not seat in the pocket then with the next station being the powder station, makes a large mess with powder free flowing all over the press. So I have to clean the 1050 by completely disassembling it every 200 rounds or so. This makes for slow reloading. I been reading about some primer problems with the 1050 over the last few nights and I am still at a loss. Here were the common issues that people found and my observations; The slide bar that feeds the primers is smooth, with no burs. The primer rod is for small primers so they are not turning over in the tube. I am using all LC brass and I am having to swager them to a little larger pocket then what I like to. Ive tried adjusting the swagger looser and tighter and still have the problems. Neither settings help. The bottom of the primer tube that has the blue feeder does have a small bur but nothing that I would think would cause problems. I have also adjusted the case holder (the white plastic that holds the case in the shell plate). I have noticed when the primer has problems seating, it pushes the case over to the left and I and feel it in the handle. I can see the case mouth touch the side of the hole in station #3 at the 9 o'clock position and I know I have a crushed primer. I have also observed that on some the primer will shoot out the bottom of the slide and I know that case did not receive a primer. I have gotten better at catching these hints of a "bad prime" Here is the kicker, all the brass primes flawlessly in my 650. I know it is a completely different setup but that shows the pockets and primers are within tolerance. The only adjustment I did with the 1050 was for the primer seating depth when I first purchased the machine. The primers were seating outside the case (not deep enough) so I adjusted it where it would seat the primers flush with the case. The primers are not seating in too far and the primers that do seat are not crushed nor flattened. So when the primers do seat, its correct. I am using CCI #41 and TULA 556m primers. Currently reloading with the 650 is faster but I hate swagging each round by hand, so I would like some suggestions on getting this up and running.

I contacted dillon again today and refered them to this thread. He said by the look of it the blue case feeder could be warped and they are sending me a replacement. Great service.

here is a better picture on how the feed plate barely catches the edge.

Notice the gap and how far the case is below the grey case feed plate. That gap mabe extends 1 or 2 inches at most then the bottom is fluch with the rest of the grey case feed plate. The edge of the case is barely hanging on. On the 650 feeder, it is flush with the bottom of the blue plastic case feeder. with no gap. Thus causing this which leads to this the clean plate is the new one, the dirty plate is the old one. Both plates have problems in the 1050. Both work correctly in the 650.

I purchased a new Dillon super 1050 last week and I went to use it and am having problems with the feeder. It looks as if it needs to be adjusted because in one spot the grey case plate that spins, has a 1/4"+ gap that allows the 223 cases to get the neck and shoulder in the gap thus either lifts the grey case plate and cases fall between that and the bottom of the case feeder, or the cases will wedge between the blue case feeder and the metal gold plate on the side. If you are looking down inside the case feeder (birds eye view) with the case funnel drop at six o'clock, the gap would be at three o'clock, where the gold metal is first screwed to the blue plastic case feeder. It is as if the plastic bottom is cut too thin there creating a shallow spot for the cases to get stuck. The rest of the feeder is flush with the bottom of the grey case plate. The washer is NOT installed lifting the case plate. I called Dillon and there only recommendation was to put the washer on the bottom of the tub where it angles the case plate at the top to help fill that gap. I tried that and it made it worse. I have a 650 that I've had for about four years and I've never had this problem. The grey case plate is flush and tight on all the bottom of that case feeder. I even tried switching the grey case plate to eliminate that variable and still had cases getting stuck. Next question is my 650 is smooth on the down and up stroke. The 1050 is smooth on the down stroke but the up stroke hangs. When the handle is at a 90 degree angle it is as it the handle has a catch in it and it pops and I feel a small jolt as if something is hanging? Should it be smooth like the 650? It only does it with a case in the first chamber with the resizing die. Cases are lubed. Sizing die is not touching the shell plate bottom and cases are being sized properly so I'm lost on why it feels as if it is hanging up. Thanks Ryan

Can you mount the bullet tray and the toolholder at the same time? I first had the toolholder mounted but could not mount the bullet tray bracket together. Is there something I am over looking? Can someone post pics of the toolholder and mount for it? Maybe I had it mounted wrong.