bikerburgess Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I was wondering if anyone has any experience with having a extended guide rod retain a threaded comp instead of using loctite? I have a GLOCk open gun with a Briley titanium comp that has a hole for the guide rod to extend into and I have a extended steel guide rod. When the guide rod is installed the comp cannot turn so I was wondering if it is still necessary or "better" to have the comp glued on? if not it make removing the comp for maintenance much easier (not that I do much maintenance) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon49erfan Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 the comp on my CZ is held on with the guide rod and I don't use loctite. I haven't seem any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefish Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Carver's Glock comp design incorporates the hole for the guide rod underneath the comp and my recollection is that he still recommends securing the comp with red Loctite. I just did one not long ago and I applied liberal quantities of Loctite 271 before threading the aluminum comp. Your comp is titanium, so the heating differential is a little different than aluminum, but still, most shooters with titanium comps install a set screw in addition to red Loctite. Your comp may stay put just being held with the guide rod, but do you want to bet your match on that? Just clean your gun when the comp wears out and be done with it. I was ro'ing an open shooter a few years back (at Dundee by coincidence) and saw something fly off the gun mid stage and actually hit the target. Turns out it was his titanium comp parting company with the barrel. I picked it up off the ground after unload and show clear and handed it to him - trying mightily not to laugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Whitefish, you know me ill bet my match on just about anything :-) heck its a 357sig GLOCK to start with. the comp had been loctighted but it came loose on Saturday and I was trying to figure out if there was really any reason to glue it back on. My thought was aluminum comps would wear pretty quickly like that but that steel and titanium may hold up just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefish Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Just clean the threads on both the comp and barrel really well with solvent and alcohol and let dry. Use some Loctite prep ahead of the red Loctite if you wish to insure the best job, but be aware that the Loctite prep reduces the set-up time dramatically - be sure you have the comp where you want it quickly (my gunsmith warned me!). I had an aluminum SJC comp come loose in just a few hundred rds (with red Loctite) and had to redo it, but it hasn't moved since! My Jager comp hasn't budged in several thousand rds, but it has a set screw in addition to the red Loctite. That titanium comp should be good for years. Sometimes even a good Loctite job can't overcome the differential heating between stainless steel and titanium. In other words, if it were mine, I would redo the Loctite. Cleaning with the comp on is not that hard to accomplish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I didn't know they made a Loctite prep. I've had mine come loose a couple times with Red on it. It seems to be holding this time, but if it comes loose again I'll give that stuff a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain037 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I got tired of the Loctite and drilled and tapped a set screw in mine. Stays put and comes off easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 I know how to re-do it just wondering if anyone had run the other way and how it worked. It went about 7000 rounds on the Blue loctite that was on it when I had it mounted, so I'm not too worried about it staying if I redo it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Never had one come off with a properly prepped and degreased red loctite. Acetone will pull all the grease off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaltMel Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Loctite primer is 7649 in a spray can. The comp on my 1911 started to come loose a few years back, I cleaned it well with a degreaser (Brakekleen) sprayed it with the primer, let it dry, then 3 drops of Loctite 620. Trust me you have to be quick, had to use a 12 inch crescent wrench to get the last 2 turns on it so the comp was oriented. 271 might not set as quickly, haven't needed to remove it so no clue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parallax3D Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, (which is basically acetone in a spray can), to clean the parts and avoid touching afterwards while assembling.Use Loctite 271, (not 620), and you WILL need to use the "propane wrench" to remove it! Loctite 271 is designed for threaded fittings, and cures in the absence if air, (no air in between threads), and doesn't come apart unless you heat it to over 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Loctite 620 is for press-fit parts, and has a lower temp threshold. Not at strong.I use 271 on my comp, and it has been in place for several years now since I last put it on. Hasn't budged or "clocked" at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Did you keep running it with just the extended rod? I'm building a glock 17 now with Carver 4 port and would like to use the guide rod to hold the comp so I can switch barrels easily/often. Which guide rod were you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 Yes, I have a Wolff steel guide rid made for a G20/21 it sticks out of the slide just enough to hold the comp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 What model glock? How far does it stick out? Was looking at the white sound defense extended one. I wish they gave length on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 I'm running a G22 in 357 SIG with a Briley titanium comp. The guide rod probably sticks out 1/8 inch but it is enough to do the comp turning. I have shot it with a factory plastic recoil spring assembly and it worked but I'm sure it would get chewed up pretty quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Mine has the normal plastic one and it's not enough to stop the comp from turning, almost. Ok thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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