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extended guide rod vs Loctite on comp


bikerburgess

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I was wondering if anyone has any experience with having a extended guide rod retain a threaded comp instead of using loctite?

I have a GLOCk open gun with a Briley titanium comp that has a hole for the guide rod to extend into and I have a extended steel guide rod. When the guide rod is installed the comp cannot turn so I was wondering if it is still necessary or "better" to have the comp glued on? if not it make removing the comp for maintenance much easier (not that I do much maintenance)

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Carver's Glock comp design incorporates the hole for the guide rod underneath the comp and my recollection is that he still recommends securing the comp with red Loctite. I just did one not long ago and I applied liberal quantities of Loctite 271 before threading the aluminum comp. Your comp is titanium, so the heating differential is a little different than aluminum, but still, most shooters with titanium comps install a set screw in addition to red Loctite. Your comp may stay put just being held with the guide rod, but do you want to bet your match on that? Just clean your gun when the comp wears out and be done with it. :devil:

I was ro'ing an open shooter a few years back (at Dundee by coincidence) and saw something fly off the gun mid stage and actually hit the target. Turns out it was his titanium comp parting company with the barrel. I picked it up off the ground after unload and show clear and handed it to him - trying mightily not to laugh. :devil:

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Whitefish, you know me ill bet my match on just about anything :-) heck its a 357sig GLOCK to start with.

the comp had been loctighted but it came loose on Saturday and I was trying to figure out if there was really any reason to glue it back on.

My thought was aluminum comps would wear pretty quickly like that but that steel and titanium may hold up just fine.

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Just clean the threads on both the comp and barrel really well with solvent and alcohol and let dry. Use some Loctite prep ahead of the red Loctite if you wish to insure the best job, but be aware that the Loctite prep reduces the set-up time dramatically - be sure you have the comp where you want it quickly (my gunsmith warned me!). I had an aluminum SJC comp come loose in just a few hundred rds (with red Loctite) and had to redo it, but it hasn't moved since! My Jager comp hasn't budged in several thousand rds, but it has a set screw in addition to the red Loctite. That titanium comp should be good for years. Sometimes even a good Loctite job can't overcome the differential heating between stainless steel and titanium. In other words, if it were mine, I would redo the Loctite. Cleaning with the comp on is not that hard to accomplish.

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Loctite primer is 7649 in a spray can. The comp on my 1911 started to come loose a few years back, I cleaned it well with a degreaser (Brakekleen) sprayed it with the primer, let it dry, then 3 drops of Loctite 620. Trust me you have to be quick, had to use a 12 inch crescent wrench to get the last 2 turns on it so the comp was oriented. 271 might not set as quickly, haven't needed to remove it so no clue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, (which is basically acetone in a spray can), to clean the parts and avoid touching afterwards while assembling.
Use Loctite 271, (not 620), and you WILL need to use the "propane wrench" to remove it! Loctite 271 is designed for threaded fittings, and cures in the absence if air, (no air in between threads), and doesn't come apart unless you heat it to over 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Loctite 620 is for press-fit parts, and has a lower temp threshold. Not at strong.

I use 271 on my comp, and it has been in place for several years now since I last put it on. Hasn't budged or "clocked" at all.

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  • 7 months later...

Did you keep running it with just the extended rod? I'm building a glock 17 now with Carver 4 port and would like to use the guide rod to hold the comp so I can switch barrels easily/often. Which guide rod were you using?

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I'm running a G22 in 357 SIG with a Briley titanium comp.

The guide rod probably sticks out 1/8 inch but it is enough to do the comp turning. I have shot it with a factory plastic recoil spring assembly and it worked but I'm sure it would get chewed up pretty quickly.

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