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I screwed up trigger job 625 pc


a468bu

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Well this was my second time doing a trigger and I think I messed up big time.

This is on a 625 pc. I stoned everything following along with the Jerry video. Used the stock ribbed main spring and switch to a 12 lbs Wolff rebound spring. The trigger feels great and sets all primers off. But it will not reset the trigger with the hammer block in the gun. I have had it apart a million times and I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this one out. It's resets just fine with it out. I did notice with it in I can push the trigger foward and it clicks. But the trigger is very loose in the frame. I pull the hammer back just a little bit and it clicks again and the trigger is tight again. Like the rebound it not staying with the trigger connector. Any ideas??

Thanks

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It sounds like the rebound slide isn't lifting the hammer. If this is the problem backing out the strain screw slightly will correct the problem. The rebound spring and mainspring need to be in balance. If you lighten the rebound you need to lighten the mainspring.

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Radius both sides of the top of the hammer block. File the inside of the hole that the pin on the rebound slide runs in to smooth the surfaces. Radius the bottom of the hammer and the top of the rebound slide where the corners meet to rebound the hammer. Probably the lighter rebound spring can't quite push it forward.

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So, do you see any wear on the hammer from rubbing in the frame? Is the hammer centered and square in the frame?

You might have to back off on your mainspring a bit to make it work with with a 12 lb rebound spring. See if you can back out the strain screw enough to get it to work and still have enough force to pop primers. If not, you'll need more rebound spring.

Otherwise, keep stoning and buffing the surfaces that Jerry says to work on. Any single surface or combination of surfaces that are not slicked up enough might keep it from working. Sounds like the hammer/rebound spring box interface or the trigger nose/cylinder stop interface might use some more work.

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Everything is polished, tried backing out the strain screw. Nothing seems to help it. Only removing the hammer block corrects it and the reset is great. If I use a hammer from a different gun leaving everything else the same and installing the hammer block everything is great. So I'm thinking the problem has to do with the hammer in some way. It does not rub the frame and I have used a .002 shim on the lock side. No interface anywhere. I even removed the shim and still acted the same.


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I finally got it. It was the top of the hammer block. Where it slides between the frame and the hammer after it backs off that little bit after releasing trigger. I filed it with a taper towards the top. It is working great now. Thanks for everyone's help that replied.

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What is meant , and how do you keep the mainspring and rebound spring in balance ? Thanks Pete

You adjust as much main spring force as you need to reliably ignite the primers on the ammo you shoot. I do that by bending the mainspring. Then, you adjust the rebound slide spring force to get proper trigger reset action. One way is to keep many bags of different weight rebound slide springs and another way is to keep a bag of stock spring and shorten (clip off coils) until the reset is just right. You should be able to pull the trigger all the way and then SLOWLY allow it to reset and still have it reliably push the hammer back.

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Only NRA Action Pistol and IDPA require that the hammer block be installed. Had Clark do an Action Job on a 29 and it came back without the hammer block. They always leave them out, and forgot to send it back.

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