a468bu

Well i sent some fire brass to starline for them to look at.

Any updates?

Ok well tried Federal brass. No problems. I took some of the Starline that was once fired. Tumbled for 2 hours, Sized & Deprimed then sonic cleaned for an hour. Loaded some up. Sticking just the same as before.

Brand new star line. I read some people had problems with it while others none at all. I'm thinking of trying a longer oal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well did some testing last night and the results were fantastic. I had different loads worked up using 147gr blue bullets. I tried power pistol, cfe, and titegroup. The titegroup was the best but I could barely extract them. Using 3.0 grs of tg. Oal of 1.145 and using new starline brass. Any suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well got my 929 back from its 3rd trip back to smith. This time they replaced the barrel and the cylinder again. Both for the 2nd time. I took for a short trip to the range this evening and it seems to be better. Not quite sure yet as it's been a long day and I didn't feel as if I was shooting my best tonight. I got some different loads worked up and I'm going to try and do some testing over the weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I am hoping that they can correct the issue. I also measured the trigger pull today. 6 1/2 pounds! I read people have 3 1/2 pound pulls from the factory with these pro custom guns. Now I have read that these have EGW hammers in them. Is that 100% correct? What about the sear? I ordered a guncraft trigger for it since this one has a lot of up and down play in it. This is my first 1911 but I am more of a do it yourselfer and would like to do the trigger job myself when I get the gun back and is working 100% I've been reading up a lot. And not sure which direction to go. Smooth up the parts that came with the gun or get the EGW sear and disconnector? I'm assuming their sear would also would have to be polished up on a jig? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I know last night when I was shooting it would fail loading the first round at times. So today I got some dummy rounds and seeing if I can get it to do that at home and it did. Here are a few pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran over 100 of my hand loads thru it. So I switch over to factory federals which ran much worse. I been reading threads on I think the 1911 site and said Williams gunsights was a factory approved gunsmith for Remington and Para. So I called them up directly. Talked to a gunsmith that laughed at the paras reps response of loading the mags up for a few weeks. He said a # of things that could be the issues and transferred me to his manager the is going to send out a call tag to pick up the firearm. This has not been a good year for me with firearm purchases. I bought a Smith 929 revolver in March that I have had possession of for a total of 6 days since February. Because it's on its 3rd trip back to smith for accuracy issues. First time they replaced barrel. Second time the cylinder. Today I called them since they have had it to over 2 weeks again and they said they are replacing the frame now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The slide is open about a 1/2 inch when it stops feeding.

I tried that 2 more times, Same guy answered phone. So I just hung up.

I picked a new Para Pro Custom 14.45 yesterday. Field stripped it and cleaned and oiled it up. Went to the range and had multiple FTF issues with the gun using 230 gr ball. I could bang on the mag and it would go into battery every time. So I did some researching on the internet last night and seen some people were having the same issues. Some of them had been sent back to Para and they had a pre ramp milled into the lower below the feed ramp on the barrel. So I called Para up today to talk to them about my issues and they did not seem too willing to help me out. He told me on the phone to fully load the magazines and leave them like that for a couple weeks and the issues should go away. What do you guys think?

My ranges allow them and not shooting at steel targets

Yes we need more info. Powder? Bullet? Also the "Crimp" does not hold the bullet in place. Any crimping on the 9mm should be very very light. Just enough so that you take the bell out, which you put in from the expanding process.

I'm not seeing anything listed in manuals for the bullet I have. The SS102 62gr Steel core using the CFE223

I am just getting the final pieces together to start loading 223 rounds. My dies, Trimmer, etc all came this week. When I was shopping for things I picked up 100rd pk of those midway 62 gr bullets just to get started. I also picked up a lb of CFE223 powder awhile back when I seen it in stock at my LGS. I have not picked up any primers as of yet. But I'm going to look for the Rem 7 1/2, CCI 41 and see if I'm able to get them locally. I am looking for load data to start with using these components. Hodgdon site has 2 different 62gr bullets listed with 2 different OAL's and I'm sure neither of these are the bullet I have. I have read on another forum that a guy was using 25grs of the cfe but did not post an oal. Plus I do not want to go by something I just came across without any solid data. Now I know these are not the most accurate bullets but it was something to just get my used to the rifle loading process. These will be shot out of either a Daniel Defense V5 or a BCM 16" Rifles I have. Both with a 1/7 twist. What would you guys recommend as far as more accurate projectiles for when I'm ready to purchase more? Thanks

I have a question along these lines also. I sonic clean and I'm just getting into rifle loading myself. Pistol is deprime first then sonic clean. And then run the process thru my progressive. I'm wondering how I should process my 223 brass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you all think of the RCBS X Sizing Die?

I looking to get into reloading for my AR. I am using a Hornady LNL progressive press but also have a Rockchucker. I was looking for dies and see there are several different choices and was wondering what everyone was using. I am thinking I want to go with Redding with a micrometer seating die. Since I use them for pistol reloading and work pretty well. Can I get away with just a sizing and seating die or do I need to get the neck sizing dies as well? Crimp die?

So you have also sent yours back? What was done?

Well I wrote to S&W and they are telling me to send it back for the 3rd time. What do you think they will do about it this time? I am really frustrated with this situation. The firearm was $1,000+, Moonclips $$$, Mooner tool $$$, Brass I bought just for use in this gun $$$. I just cant believe they are letting these guns out the door like this.

Ok I bought a 929 back in Feb. In that time it has been back to Smith 2 times. First time they replaced the barrel. The 2nd time they replaced the Cylinder. It shoots great groups at 20-25 feet. 50 ft the best group I can get can barely be covered by my hand. My friend also purchased one around the same time and is having the exact same issues. Smith has replaced the barrel on his as well. I might have chalked it up as to I'm just a bad shot. But I had 4 other people shoot the gun as well and they are unable to do any better. I have tried 5 different powders. 4 different weights and styles of bullets. Shooting offhand, shooting from a rest, etc. Just able everything imaginable. And I am just about fed up. Is anyone else out there having these problems? I can not imagine these are they only 2 guns doing this. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally got it. It was the top of the hammer block. Where it slides between the frame and the hammer after it backs off that little bit after releasing trigger. I filed it with a taper towards the top. It is working great now. Thanks for everyone's help that replied. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything is polished, tried backing out the strain screw. Nothing seems to help it. Only removing the hammer block corrects it and the reset is great. If I use a hammer from a different gun leaving everything else the same and installing the hammer block everything is great. So I'm thinking the problem has to do with the hammer in some way. It does not rub the frame and I have used a .002 shim on the lock side. No interface anywhere. I even removed the shim and still acted the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh also I tried a hammer assembly from a different gun and with the hammer block in place it works fine. So I'm guessing it's somewhere in the hammer is creating the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk