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Which Anti seize to use on scope mount screws?


markmeone

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I have a tanfoglio 38 super open gun and wish to know how to avoid the damage to the screws on the scope mount to the frame which just get stuck and are not always but impossible to remove.

I have used the Grabit damaged screw remover that does actually work after the allen screw head got rounded out beyond using. I am thinking of using an anti seize paste on the threads to stop the lock up of the screws. I have seen the silver anti seize and the copper anti seize, which one would you advise to use?

I know that some shooters use the lock tite glue to hold them in place, wouldn't that make it harder to get them out when needed?

As the action of the gun when fired makes them incredibly tight and I am worried that one day they will tear out the threads on the frame when I try to remove them, as the screws are stainless steel and the frame is an alloy which bind them together????

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Mark

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Never used anti-seize on any scope mounts, just Loctite to keep them tight. When the time came to remove the mount from the frame I used a small butane torch to heat the screws and twisted them out. The small pinpoint flame kept the heat localized so as not to have to overheat the area around the mounting screws.

This is for the scope mount to frame screws only.

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Never used anti-seize on any scope mounts, just Loctite to keep them tight. When the time came to remove the mount from the frame I used a small butane torch to heat the screws and twisted them out. The small pinpoint flame kept the heat localized so as not to have to overheat the area around the mounting screws.

This is for the scope mount to frame screws only.

Same here. I want them to seize!
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As Pat said - heat up with small flame, while applying torque from time to time with the driver - at some point you will feel a gentle SNAP and the screw will start rotating.

But don't use red loctite on the scope screws, only blue one there, so no heat is required.

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markmeone:

I have a few Tanfoglio's with mounting brackets on them, and have had to always use the blue 242 Loctite to keep them in place.

As for your situation I would first try cleaning the threads thoroughly, then when you put the new screws back in do not over tighten them at all. Just gently snug them up and see if they stay put. Don't use any anti-seize on them just yet.

And as suggested above definitely make sure you are using a good allen on the screws, check often to see if they're holding, and tighten them if you have to.

I don't know of anyone else having your specific problem,

but I sure wouldn't mind not having to use Loctite on my screws to keep them from backing out.

Best of luck.

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Hi Eric

I have 2 barrels one is a standard barrel and the other is compensated. I change them when I need to, either for steel challenge and IPSC or just a centre fire match, hence when I do not need the scope mounted on the frame.

So the blue Loctite 242 is the better of the two, not the red one because you need to heat it up to loosen the screws? Does the blue loctite go hard after a while or does it stay soft and do you need heat to remove them?

I have just snugged them up and have found that one or two of them bind up very very tightly damaging them in the process of removing the screws. Would bolts be better to use than countersunk screws????. It should be a lot easier to remove them I think.???

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I think you are making too big a deal out of heat - a small torch cost maybe $29, and works very easily. It just sounds scary.

Benefits - you do it right, the screws do not fall out, and you don't damage the screws or your tools. Last thing you want is the stripped screw, requiring drilling it out, possibly damaging your gun. The torch takes little time and is clean.

The blue locktite may be fine in some cases, and normally does not require heat, but I would not use it on metal-to-metal, only when doing the plastic to metal.

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Hi Eric

I have 2 barrels one is a standard barrel and the other is compensated. I change them when I need to, either for steel challenge and IPSC or just a centre fire match, hence when I do not need the scope mounted on the frame.

So the blue Loctite 242 is the better of the two, not the red one because you need to heat it up to loosen the screws? Does the blue loctite go hard after a while or does it stay soft and do you need heat to remove them?

I have just snugged them up and have found that one or two of them bind up very very tightly damaging them in the process of removing the screws. Would bolts be better to use than countersunk screws????. It should be a lot easier to remove them I think.???

The blue Loctite will harden as it is supposed to do.

With each removal and reinstallation of your scope mount you are moving the metal that makes up the threads and at some point they will fail. It's just the nature of the metal. This happens with or without Loctite or even anti-seize grease.

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  • 6 months later...

First post :) . I have a Tanfoglio gold team. I would completely remove the C-more mount so I could clean the whole lower in my ultrasonic cleaner. Always had a problem with the screws until I replaced them with stainless torx head screws. The torx driver gets a better bite on the screws and doesn't strip out like the allen head ones and no problem removing them even though they are loctited.

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I'd get a tap and chase the threads, sounds like there's an issue. Then use a tiny dab of blue at the top of the threads (nearest the screw head). +1 on using torx instead of allen. Tap on the driver with a leather mallet as you twist to pop them back out.

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