harryorwell Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 First I have to give a shout out to kneelingatlas for the 101 post. I just did a make over on a 75 compact and it turned out pretty good for my first go at it. The guys at CGW are first class too. Would have been a disaster without them and the 101 post plus a few others from the learned bunch here. On that note...I need to replace a few things that got broken in the process. First is my punches...or at least my poor excuse for them. What do you guys recommend. Also let me know what sizes are most used for CZ work. i have a Shadow Target also. Second i bent the lip on my mag break...I can get it back in but It doesnt seem right now and mags are more secure than i like.mi was thinking about a replacement but didn't know if there was anything available other than stock. I also need thinner grips...I've seen posts for all kinds but who makes the thinnest? Thanks in advance for you help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I have a set of punches that I cut and ground to about 3/8 inch to start the pins, then I use the longer ones so they don't bend. The pins from a machinists gauge pin set work well too as they are incredibly durable to start and drive pins. I replace the mag brake with the drop free style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfd147 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Here is your replacement part. http://czcustom.com/CZ_75-CZ_85-SP01Solid-Mag-Break.aspx Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cktenders Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 starrett punches are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 +1 on Starrett. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reshp1 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 You probably have the little tail/hook installed on the wrong side of the hammer spring plug pin. It's a pain in the ass to install and easy to get wrong. You have to hold the plug in with one hand against strong spring pressure. With the other hand, fit the mag brake in it's slot and make sure it's seated all the way down into the slot. Then push the retaining pin through. The little hook/tail should be below the retaining pin, otherwise the brake bows out and rubs against the mag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryorwell Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 reshp1...should the mag brake be installed first before the hammer spring or vice versa? I'm thinking now it should go first...may explain the difficulty I had with the Hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2MoreChains Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 A roll pin punch and holder set from Brownells works nicely for CZ maintenance (as well as working on ARs). IIRC, #1 roll pin is the right size for tapping out the pin that holds the front sight in place, and the #2 for the trigger pin and hammer pins. Seeing as the #1 and #2 are pretty small its easy to bend or break them, especially getting the trigger pin out for the first time. CGW sells a starter punch that is sometimes needed. One of mine was hard as heck to get out, the other one was anticlimactically easy to get out with a regular punch... As far as grips, I want to say the thin CZC aluminum ones are the thinnest. The plastic or rubber OEM grips with palm swells are the thickest. VZs are somewhere between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 reshp1...should the mag brake be installed first before the hammer spring or vice versa? I'm thinking now it should go first...may explain the difficulty I had with the Hammer spring. If you get the Stainless Steel brake from CZC, it eliminates that annoying tab and makes switching out the hammer spring easier. Since it is also a little thicker, you don't have to worry about it bending and it is only $10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryorwell Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 reshp1...should the mag brake be installed first before the hammer spring or vice versa? I'm thinking now it should go first...may explain the difficulty I had with the Hammer spring. If you get the Stainless Steel brake from CZC, it eliminates that annoying tab and makes switching out the hammer spring easier. Since it is also a little thicker, you don't have to worry about it bending and it is only $10. Already ordered...info overload...love this site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reshp1 Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 reshp1...should the mag brake be installed first before the hammer spring or vice versa? I'm thinking now it should go first...may explain the difficulty I had with the Hammer spring. I put the spring in first, then the plug, and then compress the plug into the frame and hold it there (usually pushing base of grip against table top). While holding it there, I put the brake in the proper slot and seat it as far down as it can go, then insert the pin for the hammer spring plug. The top in for the brake goes in last. You could put the brake in before the spring, but my guess is when you compress the spring, it'll want to pop out of the slot a bit if the spring rubs on that little tail at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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