reshp1

I find the hard plastic magpuls work just fine even with sweaty hands. There's enough texture there. The smoother overmolded ones actually feel more slippery when wet, even though they're rubber. Grip tape is always an option. The other important consideration is how vertical you want the grip. I shoot in a pretty squared up stance with short length of pull and find the more vertical grips like the magpul k2 more comfortable on my wrist than something with a slacker angle.

Your arms are way too relaxed, imo, almost like you're using a teacup grip. Try to get your elbows up so when you elbows flex the gun goes straight back. As it is now, when you bend your elbows, the gun goes muzzle up. Adopting a mote aggressive stance helps with this in general since you bring your head down to the gun instead of gun up to your eye level.

CR Speeds work great for me.

My club has started doing this. They put an orange bucket somewhere downrange you point to with the gun shouldered.

Depending on your buffer weight, I would just lose the weight in the bolt. I'm not a big fan of how it's held in there, seems like asking for trouble. Also, my kaw valley bolt came with a sharp corner that liked to sometimes dig into head of the case and keep the round from going all the way into the chamber. The tip of the round would go in, but when the back end tried to go up to align with the chamber, it would get caught in the sharp spot on the bolt.

When moving, take your weak hand off of the gun so you can run more normally with arm swing. Also, keep the gun about shoulder height. You have it near your belly button at times. Not only is it slower, but potentially dangerous if you trip and fall, there's more chance to land on top of the gun.

I'm pretty new at this too, so take this for what it's worth. Plan your activated targets better. You're waiting for a few while you could potentially be doing something else, and one of them catches you off guard and you end up engaging it too late. You're forgetting about sight offset in close and missing low on the head shots. Shooting around the left of a barrier looked super awkward for you. I feel like you can get more lean out of your lower body instead of just arching your back. Face the barrier square up and keep your feet farther apart laterally and use your right leg for counterbalance so you can lean farther out without tipping over. Also, if I have trouble getting far enough. I'll transition the stock to my other shoulder and aim with my left eye (hands don't move on the gun). As everyone said, you're getting into shooting positions slowly because you move, stop, and then aim. Your doubles are really slow. If you kinda have to trust the second shot goes where you want based on stance and grip, at least on the easier targets. If you're getting pulled off target too much try adding some counter tension by pulling the gun harder into your shoulder and pushing your shoulder harder forward into the gun. Trigger will help here too, for sure.

I went super heavy initially (25.5 oz total) and it reduces recoil a lot, but the reciprocating weight is almost as bad for disturbing aim. The whole gun jumps just closing the bolt. I'm messing with reducing weight a bit at a time, but haven't really found a sweet spot yet. Im going to give the Blitzkrieg/Kynshot Hydraulic buffer a try here soon as well, I've heard good things about it smoothing things out considerably. I have a feeling without tuning loads, it's all relatively incremental improvements though.

Nevermind

Mine hasn't had a hiccup in ~500 rounds finally (knock on wood): Anderson stripped upper New Frontier 16" 9mm barrel Matrix Arms 15" M-Lok rail Kaw Valley Precision 9mm bolt BCM mod 4 charging handle Ebay "Tanker" muzzle brake (pretty accurate JP Cooley knock off in 9mm) Black Creek Precision dedicated 9mm lower, Colt pattern, w/ CMMG LPK Magpul CTR stock w/ Aero Buffer Tube and KAK 9mm heavy buffer Mapgul MOE grip and trigger guard Geissele SSA-E Primary Arms MD-ADS with PA absolute co-witness mount Griffin Armament M-Lok hand guard cover and handstop. http://i.imgur.com/Wo7j6pO.jpg I had a few issues to work through. The Kaw Valley bolt is a hybrid so it has a bunch of cuts in it to accommodate both glock and colt pattern. Unfortunately one of the cuts left a sharp corner at the breech that would gouge into the case head and prevent the round's tail from coming up in order to full chamber. Took a while to figure out that one, but the fix was easy, I just rounded the corner with a file. Next my Elftmann trigger I had planned on using didn't reset reliability. Swapped it out for a Geissele SSA-E and it's been 100%. I do have a Timney on the way which is reputed to work well with 9mm ARs. The reset on the SSA-E is just too long for my liking, I end up short stroking it quite a bit. Finally, I had a few instances where the mag wouldn't seat on a closed bolt, and I mean no matter how hard I beat on it. Figured out the feed ramp protrudes into the magwell a little at the front and the tip of the bullet was catching on it if it wasn't pushed all the way into the back of the mag. I've been more careful about loading that final round and haven't had an issue since.

Yeah, it's a DQ. Without a FPB, the procedure is much less complicated, although not as fool proof. I would still keep my off hand thumb in the way of the hammer as long as possible. You can hold the trigger down the entire way though, since it doesn't really matter without a FPB, and get the hammer all the way down in one step without stopping at half cock.

I put the spring in first, then the plug, and then compress the plug into the frame and hold it there (usually pushing base of grip against table top). While holding it there, I put the brake in the proper slot and seat it as far down as it can go, then insert the pin for the hammer spring plug. The top in for the brake goes in last. You could put the brake in before the spring, but my guess is when you compress the spring, it'll want to pop out of the slot a bit if the spring rubs on that little tail at all.

Here's how I lower the hammer all the way down, which IMO is the safest way. 1. Put your weak hand thumb between the hammer and firing pin. 2. Cock the hammer back with your strong hand thumb so it takes all the spring pressure and pull the trigger. 3. Lower the hammer onto your weak hand thumb and release the trigger, now the firing pin block is engaged if you slip. 4. Lower the hammer onto half-cock with your strong hand thumb as you retract your weak hand thumb. 5. Pull back on the slide slightly until the slide contacts the hammer, but not so far back that it cocks it again, and pull the trigger. 6. If you have the slide back the right amount, the sear should release and the hammer should gently follow the slide down to fully decocked. 7. As a final step, I pull back slightly on the hammer again so that the FPB can engage again. It won't "click" in with the hammer pressure pushing the FP forward. This means the gun is now drop safe should it come out of your holster or you really screw up the draw. It sounds complicated, but it's really not and after you do it a couple times, it's very quick and easy. It's a lot more stress free IMO, as there's virtually no way the gun can go off if you slip at any point.

You probably have the little tail/hook installed on the wrong side of the hammer spring plug pin. It's a pain in the ass to install and easy to get wrong. You have to hold the plug in with one hand against strong spring pressure. With the other hand, fit the mag brake in it's slot and make sure it's seated all the way down into the slot. Then push the retaining pin through. The little hook/tail should be below the retaining pin, otherwise the brake bows out and rubs against the mag.

It is if you don't mess with anything and it stays SSP legal. And that includes work by CZ Custom, even if you bought it that way. If you do anything that would bump it into ESP (milling for LPA sights, accu-bushing, SAO conversion, etc), it becomes illegal in any class due to the full length steel dust cover/rail.

Is the trigger pushing back the hammer in DA and just not releasing it, or is it just "dead" and not doing anything? I'm seconding the trigger bar lifter spring idea. Check to see that it hasn't come out of the grooves under the trigger bar. Sometimes you'll inadvertently snag them with a rag when cleaning and pull them off the trigger bar.

Biggest thing is to look the gun into the holster. It's really surprising how few people actually do this.

Do it. Here's my, slightly shinier, conversion.

Thanks for the tip. I did just that and now the gun seats into the holster. The muzzle end of the frame was hitting the holster. Softened it up with a hair dryer and was able to make a little extra room. It's still not quite as crisp of a click as my other one but does obviously snap in though. I think that had not to do with the big, square trigger guard on the p-09 though.

I've had a blade-tech holster for my 75B stainless for a while and one of the things that I don't like about it is the gun doesn't really click into place. I didn't really notice this until I got my P-09 holster a few weeks ago and immediately noticed the difference. That one clicks in crisply and securely while the 75B one is more of a friction fit. I read somewhere the models with the up-swept beaver tails have frames that are slightly different dimensions that makes holster fit problematic. I took a closer look on mine and sure enough, the trigger guard seems 0.1" short of going into the outline molded into the plastic. Can someone with a 75B (preferably one with a up-swept beavertail) and a blade-tech holster please tell me if theirs actually clicks in? I'm wondering if this is normal, if I bought the wrong holster, got a bad one, and/or if there's anything I can do to modify the holster instead of having to get a new one. This is the one I bought, by the way: http://czcustom.com/btrhcz75sadohtek.aspx

The safety thing is expected. The aftermarket hammers reduce the engagement surface by raising the sear bed as opposed to cutting from the top of the hammer hook. They do this so your trigger still breaks in the same spot, otherwise there would be timing issues. The downside is the safety needs to be fitted since the sear starts in a higher position, a position the safety is normally supposed to keep it from going to. The CGW sear has a set screw to make this super easy. You can fit the factory one by filing too, but it's tedious. Can you describe the hammer not coming forward thing more? When it falls and comes to a stop, can you push the hammer back with the trigger like you can in D/A? If so, your gun is a bit out of time and D/A hasn't disconnected yet when the trigger breaks. Your hammer is falling onto the disconnector nub. The fix is either to chamfer the front bottom edge, or take a little off of the bottom surface. If your trigger isn't moving the hammer when it stops, it might be your strut binding, although it'd have to be pretty major to arrest the hammer mid-fall.

Can you please elaborate on this? Is this for DA or SA pre-travel? Mine seems to work fine but maybe I'm just not looking in the right spot. As far as I can tell the only difference between the CGW disco and the stock one is the stock one is thinner in the "hook" section which allows the trigger to return farther forward in SA and therefore has more pre-travel.

Yes, mine was a drop in fit. I think it's luck of the draw from pistol to pistol as I've heard both accounts of it working and not working. Mine is very close the trigger bottoming out against the frame when the hammer is released in DA. The CZC hammer starts the sear in a higher position than stock and even higher when it clears the hammer hooks, moving the break farther back in the trigger pull effectively. The CGW lifter geometry also does the same to an extent from what I can tell since the nub the trigger bar pushes on is thinner and farther back. The two together moves SA break back in the trigger pull far enough that you might run out of trigger travel to drop the hammer. The higher sear starting position on the CZC hammer also means the safety won't work (at least on mine). The sear starts in a position the safety would be preventing it from going when engaged.

I did the following: CGW reduced power return spring CGW SRS (includes extended firing pin and reduced FP spring and mainspring) CZC competition hammer CZC Tac rear sight with 5.5mm FO front sight (shooting a bit high, 6mm front sight would have been perfect. Not enough to be worth fixing a this point though). I'm pretty happy with the gun as it sits, and I'm a bit of a trigger snob. It's too bad the CGW hammer isn't production legal though. The CZC hammer is good, but the CGW was much more crisp IMO.

I believe the comp one is a factory part with the hooks cut for a cleaner break. The Race and Ring hammers are wire EDM cut and finished from scratch by a totally different process.