Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

686 nodash Integral front sight- need to change- any opinions?


NoKimberDave

Recommended Posts

I have a pretty nice 686 no-dash. However, it has the SS integral front sight. It's so useless that words escape. I have to wear sunglasses just to look at it, much less shoot it. When the sun is right, I have friends gather around to marvel at the light coming off of it! It's almost Biblical.

I really want the S&W interchangeable front sight system, like the one that comes on the SSR and other modern models.

It seems to me that a gunsmith could just machine off the sight down to the ramp, then cut a trench the correct width, then drill a lateral hole. Just like they must do at S&W.

But I have had a hard time finding anybody who has done this, or can do it.

Alternately, I have found many install the Weigland system. I like this, but don't see why it is much easier than what I posted above.

-Any body heard of anyone doing it like the S&W system? Or, of any alternatives?

-I also want to have the hammer bobbed and an overtravel stop installed.

I have looked at SDM Fabricating and Pinnacle Customs to do this, so any opinions of those guys, or alternatives to them would be great.

Thanks for your time and sorry if this question has been beat to death!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - any competent gunsmith with an endmill can do either of those sight alterations. I had both done. I had the slot milled and used an SDM pinned front FO sight on a Model 15 where the tapered barrel makes the Weigand systen impractical - works like a champ. I use the Weigand Front Sight base on all my other game guns. The advantage to the Weigand is that it is a quick change system - pop whatever sight suits you in and out quickly and easily.

Bob the hammer? You can do that yourself easily - the Dremmel is your friend! Removing the hammer is a simple task and whacking the spur requires only a little cutting , grinding and polishing with Mr Dremmel.

If you are going to use the gun as a game gun, you neither want nor need an overtravel stop. If it comes loose it can jam the trigger and if you're rolling the trigger in DA fire you won't even notice the tiny bit of travel the overtravel the stop elimates.

If you happen to live anywhere near Durham NC, I'll give you the name of my guy and he'll fix you right up. :)

You are exactly right - the old front sights on S&Ws are BAD.

Edited by Brewski
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - any competent gunsmith with an endmill can do either of those sight alterations. I had both done. I had the slot milled and used an SDM pinned front FO sight on a Model 15 where the tapered barrel makes the Weigand systen impractical - works like a champ. I use the Weigand Front Sight base on all my other game guns. The advantage to the Weigand is that it is a quick change system - pop whatever sight suits you in and out quickly and easily.

Bob the hammer? You can do that yourself easily - the Dremmel is your friend! Removing the hammer is a simple task and whacking the spur requires only a little cutting , grinding and polishing with Mr Dremmel.

If you are going to use the gun as a game gun, you neither want nor need an overtravel stop. If it comes loose it can jam the trigger and if you're rolling the trigger in DA fire you won't even notice the tiny bit of travel the overtravel the stop elimates.

If you happen to live anywhere near Durham NC, I'll give you the name of my guy and he'll fix you right up. :)

You are exactly right - the old front sights on S&Ws are BAD.

Thanks for the response man!

Point of clarification: The S&W sight system as found on the SSR accepts interchangeable blades like the Weigland. It is not to be confused with the standard S&W pinned front sight.

That's why I am wondering why a lot of people just don't machine it like that rather than add the Weigland. As it should be a relatively easy job similar to what you have done on your MDL. 15. I think it would need a spring and detent though, which should be easy to achieve.

I may take your advice and do the hammer myself, as I am not afraid to attack something with a Dremel. Hide your feed ramps!

As to the OT stop: I don't know, I'd loctite it and don't see it coming out? I have them on many handguns and haven't had a problem. I see your point but over travel is a bummer.

Would love to have the name of your guy, I am right in Raleigh. If it is Joel, he's stacked up for a few months and isn't taking work right now. Which sucks because I knwo he could likely do it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would get a newer gun. The older Smiths are going up in value every day!! Just buy a -5 without the lock and you should get what you need without extra cost. ;)

+1. This is exactly what I would do. There were issues with the early no-dash and -1 L-frames: http://books.google.com/books?id=IuQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA11&dq=model+686+L-frame&hl=en&sa=X&ei=35wqUaf4KYLTrQGQ_4DwCQ&ved=0CEgQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=model%20686%20L-frame&f=false

Sell it to one of those little old hens that collects S&Ws but never actually shoots, and start looking for a 686-5. For competition use, that particular variation is the best of the bunch, with the FMFP but no ILS, and pinned front sight that can be readily replaced with an SDM or Protocall fiber-optic unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meh, the thought of S&W nanny's going over cubic millimeter of my gun and trying to chisel me down for every nick and scratch and then going on the search for a 686-5 is in decent condition has me thinking I'd rather shave my head with a cheese grater!

Not easy to find those as -4's and 5's seem to be scarce.

The issue with the early no dashes and -1's was solved with a recall.

I am keeping this gun, as I like it and it shoots well. It's not a collectors piece, Collectors of these want perfect guns with box and papers and are very picky. This ain't one of those, as I actually use it. Going to put a front sight on it, the only question is which one. It's either the Weigland system or find a guy who can machine it like the factory SSR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is Joel. He has done all my work and is excellent. Unless you're in a rush, I'd get on Joel's wait list.

He is excellent, indeed. He has already worked on this gun and he did a perfect job. He was the first guy I talked to. Maybe I will wait him out or corner him at a match and guilt him into it.

I know he could do the machining I need. He is busy for a reason!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of you are breaking my heart. The 586 and 686 no dash are the best that S&W came out with as a production gun. The 586 no dash and 686 were S&W shot at competing with the Colt Python.

There were a couple of minor teething problems. They were the fixed hand which if done right gave a really crisp trigger, but if done wrong needed adjustment. Additionally the 124 gr .357 Remington came out and the gun was not set up for it. Ended up with primer flow from those rounds coming back onto the firing pin and bushing. S&W , for nothing, will change out the bushing and firing pin and deal with the problem if you shoot those rounds.

Trade your 686 no dash out to someone who appreciates the best of the best S&W and buy yourself something else to chop up.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of you are breaking my heart. The 586 and 686 no dash are the best that S&W came out with as a production gun. The 586 no dash and 686 were S&W shot at competing with the Colt Python.

There were a couple of minor teething problems. They were the fixed hand which if done right gave a really crisp trigger, but if done wrong needed adjustment. Additionally the 124 gr .357 Remington came out and the gun was not set up for it. Ended up with primer flow from those rounds coming back onto the firing pin and bushing. S&W , for nothing, will change out the bushing and firing pin and deal with the problem if you shoot those rounds.

Trade your 686 no dash out to someone who appreciates the best of the best S&W and buy yourself something else to chop up.

Jim

I hear you. Couple thoughts:

I agree this is a great revolver. That's why I bought it and not a new one. Found a shooter grade gun with no box and no papers and have not the slightest guilt in preparing it for lots of shooting.

Guns should be shot, imo. I have no interest in owning gun so that I can pull it out once in a while, fawn over it, and use my spendy camera to take pics to post on the internet. I will shoot this gun a lot. It will be used for what it was designed and intended for. Why? Because I do in fact appreciate it. Already have over a thousand rounds through it.

With that in mind, a stainless steel front sight is stupid. It's useless. It becomes polished by reholstering and drawing. That is why there is nobody in the entire world that actually shoots guns who would want the front sight to be shiny stainless steel. I have never heard a sight company even making one available (excepting some of these S&W's). Because it is useless and nobody who actually shoots guns would buy it.

Front sights and sight sets are probably the most common change on a handgun. Because it is important to be comfortable with them. This gun is no exception. I will put a decent front sight on it, and likely a rear sight as well. I took off the smooth target grips and stuck them in a box. They looked good in pictures. As to the hammer and trigger: I got extras of this vintage sitting in a box to use. They're available all over.

You may or may not disagree, but I do not consider this some kind of "collector" piece and don't consider adding useful sights "chopping it up". And, if you really want this gun everything is for sale if the money is right!

I have several old guitars I use as well. Including a rare G&L made my Leo Fender himself. While there are certainly those who would stick it in a closet and wait for it to increase in value, I think Leo would appreciate the fact that it gets played, and is well loved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

O/P your 1st paragraph is hilarious! I agree 100% that the ramp FS is next to useless for hitting anything past 10 yards.

Here is a -0 that I had "fixed". Harold at 150X Custom did this and he made the FS too. The idea was to only see the fibre rod in the sight picture and it works pretty much as intended. I love it.

IMG_0594_zps3gfxuwvc.jpg

IMG_0595_zpsqkmb8uq3.jpg

Edited by Shadowrider
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the hammer mounted firing pin because it is classic but I think it is hard to find replacement hammers now

There's always Apex if the need arises. I did the same thing to a 625-4. I actually shoot these, so I want them to run to their potential. I'm sure the old hens on that other forum would have a coronary incident if they saw these and knew how many rounds we put through our guns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a no-dash 586 that I had hard chromed a few years ago. Currently I'm dealing with the light colored FS issue by applying Testors flat black model airplane paint to the sight.

However, every so often I get a hankering for something a bit more elegant and permanent. Since the gun has been plated, is there any issue doing the machining/drilling work described in the posts above?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

O/P your 1st paragraph is hilarious! I agree 100% that the ramp FS is next to useless for hitting anything past 10 yards.

Here is a -0 that I had "fixed". Harold at 150X Custom did this and he made the FS too. The idea was to only see the fibre rod in the sight picture and it works pretty much as intended. I love it.

IMG_0594_zps3gfxuwvc.jpg

IMG_0595_zpsqkmb8uq3.jpg

Nice. Just took the sight off right to the ramp. I like that. This is what I am thinking I want. Seen a few guys who will do that and add the pinned front sights.

The Weigland requires the to be machined off as well and machines a slot into the top of the barrel. I would rather avoid that, but I like the interchangeability of that system. Still not sure what I am going to do.

I've got a no-dash 586 that I had hard chromed a few years ago. Currently I'm dealing with the light colored FS issue by applying Testors flat black model airplane paint to the sight.

However, every so often I get a hankering for something a bit more elegant and permanent. Since the gun has been plated, is there any issue doing the machining/drilling work described in the posts above?

Would be interesting to know the answer to this. I am not sure myself. EDIT: Looks like Toolguy knows the answer.

Edited by NoKimberDave
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...