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Help cleaning rusty dies


N1vram

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Does it interfere with function or you just can't stand rust on your die?

Is it a decap-only die or a sizing die? Is it a carbide sizing die or a steel sizing die? IF the rust is on the exterior, ignore it or brush it off using a brass brush and rust preventative/Naval jelly. If it is the interior of a decapping-only die, ignore it (this is not a working surface). If it is in the interior of a carbide die, ignore it (this is not a working surface--unless it is a Dillon bottleneck carbide sizing die). If it is in the interior of a steel sizing die, send it to the manufacturer. They can remove it and verify the die is still within specification.

I sure wouldn't tumble my dies and certainly not with SS pins.

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Never really thought about this. I wonder if it's worth cleaning your dies in the tumbler from time to time regardless. I clean other things on the press but not the dies. Of course, that means setting up the die depth all over again...

If you load cast bullets, the answer if absolutely clean the seating and crimp die now and then.

I usually swab my dies out with alcohol and then a light oil when I change calibers. Probably not necessary but it makes me feel better.

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If you load cast bullets, the answer if absolutely clean the seating and crimp die now and then

I don't load lead so I was thinking more along the lines of the sizing die and powder dies. Those are the two that do the most "work" on my press.

It won't hurt a bit to clean them out with a little non-chlorinated brake cleaner or toss them in your tumbler. Using a double lock ring will greatly simplify re-installing the die. Same for the redding set screw type lock rings.

If you use a Dillon SDB, it's a little more challenging.

I load on a dillon 550 now, so that's why I have adopted the routine of swabbing out with denatured alcohol. Its a pretty good solvent and evaporates quickly. I usually have it, and other solvents on the shelf anyway. Follow up with a little light oil to prevent rusting. I like Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed 50/50 with Mineral Spirits because I use it a lot as a penetrating oil. Mineral spirits would probably work just fine too.

Obviously, no oil on the powder die. Blow it out with compressed air and leave it be.

Like all these machines we use, a little maintenance goes a long way. Blow the dirt off them, keep the moving parts clean, and we're in business. I don't clean my guns or gear in the same detail the Army requires me to clean theirs. I just keep them generally clean and servicable; guns, cars, loading gear, lawnmower, etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

I buy that at Harbor Freight and soak the steel parts of dies overnight. Then coat with oil or wax where possible. Just don't use it on blued parts. It eats anything that is an oxide.

I don't have photos of dies but here are some bolts I used it on. These mount a skidplate under my car. I live in NY where the roads are salt covered in the winter.

Before

before.jpg

After

after.jpg

Edited by darkvibe
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  • 2 weeks later...

On the subject of locking rings hornaday makes some nice ones that squeeze with a cross type bolt. Instead of pushing a set screw into the threads. Maybe other company's make a similar product that I haven't seen. But I've never had one of these slip like I have the set screw type. It is all together possible I never tighten the set screws enough for the fear of damaging the threads on the dyes.

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These?

http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Sure-Loc-Lock-Ring-Grey/dp/B000LC116Y

I took the set screw type off of my RCBS die and replaced it with one of these. Not so much because I don't like the set screw but because I have a few kinds of dies and they all took a different size allen key. They all take the same size now.

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Every body has their own ideas about lock rings and all of them are correct—for themselves.

Ever since Hornady came out with die bushings, I have been more happy with Lee and Dillon nuts (lock-rings with NO set screw). They don't loosen unless I loosen them and I don't need an Allen wrench and an additional wrench.

In fact, I prefer the Lee because they are thicker and thus easier to get a wrench on than the thin Dillon "nuts."

Then, going to Dillon 1050s, I simply became more convinced that I would NEVER need a set-screw lock ring again, as I wouldn't own a press again that did not have die bushings or tool heads.

Edited by noylj
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