N1vram Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) I'm in the process of getting all my components together to start reloading 10mm and eventually 9mm. Just pre-ordered some star line brass, have lp primers and now I need bullets. Since this is my first go at reloading. Should I stick to jacketed bullets for now or does is it a non issue? The only powder Ive been able to get my hands on is Titegroup if that matters. And I'm looking to use 180gr bullets. The rounds would mostly be for non-competition (plinking at the range, etc). I'll be shooting out of a factory glock barrel. And understand lead bullets aren't recommended by glock. I lve read several threads where some people haven't had issues. I was looking at some of the coated bullets versus jacketed to save a little. Edited August 20, 2014 by N1vram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Big advantage to JHP's is they are more forgiving if you over "crimp" them. And, less lead on you and your reloading machine. But, they're more expensive. There are some good coated bullets out there (I haven't tried them yet, but someone will be along this morning with their favorite) - save money - but have to set your "crimp" properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBandit Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I think you would be ok with coated or plated bullets. Like Jack said you will need to watch your crimp. You will also need to make sure your expansion die expands the case mouth enough on coated bullets so you don't shave off the coating like I did on several before I got it adjusted. It wasn't the bullets fault, but my setup. To me they are all similar to load, but charges will differ some between jacketed, coated and plated. Start low and work up. Coated is faster than plated by a few fps in my experience. I have used Berry's and Extremes with good success in the plated variety and have used BBI (I'm sure SNS and Bayou would be good to go too) in the coated variety also with good success. All in 9mm. They all shoot well and load easy. Just pay attention to your setup and you should be good to go. On the crimping front I am not sure what the 10mm requires, but I just use a light crimp in my Lee factory crimp die. I can't remember the measurement or I would put it in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshoot Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 You mentioned plinking, so you may be happy with plated bullets. I have never found a plated bullet that is as accurate as a good jacketed bullet, like Montana Gold's . . . none of them . . . Extreme, Berry's, Rainier's. Some of the plated bullets opened my groups up as much as 3 inches! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougM Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 To restate a point made above a little differently, jacketed or plated are a little easier to learn on relative to reloading than straight lead. While proper belling and crimping is important to all reloading, jacketed is the most tolerant to slight errors and lead is the least tolerant. Since you mentioned plinking is the objective and cost is a significant factor, I'd suggest you start with plated and get your process down pat with those. If you shop carefully, you'll find plated are only one or two cents more than lead meaning that a typical range trip might cost you no more than a few dollars more than using lead. Plus some indoor ranges won't allow lead to be shot. I've not used coated but from what I've heard, they are somewhere between straight lead and plated relative to hardness. Plated bullets are soft enough to quickly tell you if your belling is too tight (you'll see copper scrapings) or if you're over crimping (wrinkles in the plating). Once you're comfortable on what to look for in belling and crimping, you can move on to lead or coated if you want. Remember that no matter what bullet you use, you want to bell enough to just allow the bullet to start to enter the mouth and then taper crimp just enough to straighten out the case but not deform the bullet. I'm not down on lead so don't misread that. In fact, I'm only loading lead for 45ACP. But I learned on plated and still had some issues when I moved to lead - primarily by not belling enough and then under-crimping. I got the issues corrected fairly quickly but it was due to my earlier learning on plated that told me what was going on. People are more than welcome to disagree with what I said above. My comments were based only my experience. Others will likely have a different perspective and their comments would be educational to all of us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 jacketed are easier to learn on People are welcome to disagree. My comments are based on my experience. +1. Have to agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtuns Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I started with lead never had a issue. I did My homework before I started. But if your not mechanically inclined may be an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grouptherapy Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Agree dt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Start. Doesn't matter with which one. Just start. Know that you are going to have questions and problems with just about any one that you start with. You never stop learning in reloading...just when you think you've see it all, loaded it all, something will throw a curve ball at you. But start with jacketed....they are easier to learn on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtychemist Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 You want to start by buying small pistol primers. Lp primers won't work. You could also use small rifle primers if you research it more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 (edited) You want to start by buying small pistol primers. Lp primers won't work. You could also use small rifle primers if you research it more.10mm is a large primer....40 S&W is a small primer, 9mm is a small primer.Perhaps you should do some more research first.... Edited August 21, 2014 by GrumpyOne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I started w lead and had no issues. Switched to coated to reduce smoke from the lead lube. Grumpy said it best, just start! That was my biggest hurtle to get over. Did a thousand or more on a single stage then moved to a progressive. Much fun watching a completed round pop out with every cerchunk of the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Start with jacketed. I prefer cast lead for my 10mm's, but then I prefer cast lead for almost all my guns. Taper crimp for jacketed, plated, or lead is the same. In fact, once the die is adjusted, that is it. Some folks sweat crimp like it is important. It isn't in any testing I have done. All you need to do is remove the case mouth flare so the cartridges easily drop in the chamber. The best you can do would be aim for a "crimp" that brings the case mouth to SAAMI dimension or 0.001-0.002" smaller. I have never found that varying the crimp, roll or taper, for any handgun has made any difference to accuracy--unless you go too far. Handguns don't have the accuracy potential of rifles and most rifles don't have the accuracy potential of custom bench-rest rifles. For handguns, accuracy is so much more on the shooter entirely and not so much the bullet, the powder, or any "case prep." A good trigger does more for accuracy than most load development ever will. 10mm is as easy to load as any other cartridge and 9x19 is almost as easy (9x19 sometimes needs a little case lube due to tapered case and length of carbide ring). .40, on the other hand, seems to have marginal case strength and it is best to load after you are experienced and if you don't want max loads. If you only have TiteGroup, not exactly a great powder for 10mm (and I don't care for it for 9x19 either), you will be best with jacketed bullets and not trying for max loads (I found N310, Clays, and TiteGroup to produce pressure spikes in some cartridges and I haven't tested it in 10mm, and would be cautious doing so). However, one must be thankful to have ANY powder--at least you have some powder. I prefer ~175gn JHP or L-SWC bullets in 10mm, but your preference may be different. The problem I have is the 12.5-25+ cents per bullet for jacketed. You may prefer to start off with 165gn RNFP plated bullets from Xtreme at $46/500, which is less than 10 cents a bullet. I don't like plated, but if you are careful not to cut the plating when crimping (keeping crimping separate from seating helps a lot), they may perform well for you (just keep the velocity under 1250fps unless Xtreme says differently). Just checked. Per Xtreme: Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We do not recommend velocities over 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and only a light taper crimp. Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We do not recommend velocities over 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and only a light taper crimp. They should know what is best for their bullets. Take all responses and "average" them out. Grammar Nazi: GrumpyOne--it isn't lightening that kills, it is lightning. Lightening is removing weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I have it exactly the way I want it, Noylj.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttolliver Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 My rule of thumb for belling cases is to set it so that I can pick up a case with one of the intended bullets. I load almost exclusively lead and coated and I've never had a shaving issue with this approach. You can induce a little shaving if you have the bullet seated out of alignment with the case. But that's an initial bullet placement issue, not a belling issue, hehehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1vram Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Thanks guys. This is just the information I was looking for. I have some time off next week and expect to get setup and started. I may start with some 9mm first as I still don't have dies or caliber conversion for 10mm yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfs Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Indoor rangee just asked us to not use moly coated. Might want to just stay with plated and not worry about the extra penny I was using moly before that but not any more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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