Reamed too deep?

[Steve RA]

Sorry, but if you load the cartridge so that the bullet engages the rifling - or within 3 or 4 thousandths - and the base of the cartridge is flush with the hood - or 3 or 4 thousandths lower - I guarantee it will fire. It won't make any difference how long the case is.

Remember, straight wall pistol brass shortens with each firing, so I'll bet that if you take 10 used cases (unloaded) and "plunk" them into your chamber the bases of the cartridges will will be 7 or 8 different distances from being flush with the barrel hood.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: If you load it that long and it moves forward and then fires the pressures will go through the roof or blow the top off the barrel. I also don't think you will be able to get them into the magazines since the round will be too long to fit. Just use it as a paper weight and a reminder of what not to do. I have lots of racecar parts that I do that with--HeHe. Thanks, Eric

[Steve RA]

I seriously doubt the cartridge would move forward if the bullet is 3 or 4 thousandths from the rifling - or lede into the rifling - and the case was sized properly so the neck tension was as it should be.

I don't know exactly how deep the chamber was reamed, but, from the comments in the thread it didn't seem as though it - the chamber - ended up as deep as a normal 10mm chamber would be.

Agree the round might not fit in a magazine, but, that isn't really the discussion here.

[Carmoney]

So there are still people around who believe the cartridge actually headspaces on the case mouth. Amusing!

[reptoid]

I'm not sure what the "DO NOT TRY THIS" is based on. Many rifle experts suggest loading rifle cartridge so the bullet is 3 or 4 thousandths from the rifling as one of the things to do in a search for best accuracy. So loading the pistol cartridge in the same manner should have no danger involved as the pressures in most pistol cartridges are considerably lower than most rifle cartridges.

You could load the bullet so the case head is 3 or 4 thousandths below the hood of the barrel for the exact same effect.

Admittedly, the cartridge might not work in the magazines but I cannot see that there would be a risk involved in loading one up and trying it.

Rifle cartridges that you are referring to headspace off of the sholder, not the casemouth thus holding the case from going forward when the firing pin strikes the primer. In his case, if he loads it long like you suggested , the firing pin strike, or even the slide slamming home at full speed will stick the bullet in the lands in addition to probably getting a light strike due to excessive headspace. Then when you try to clear/eject the lightstrike, you run the risk of pulling the bullet and dumping a case full of powder into your mag.

For the OP: Not trying to add insult to injury but, if you are asking which kind of reamer you need and don't really understand "headspace" (hint: it has nothing to do with the bullet) you need to do more research before you cut metal i.e. measure two or three times, cut once. If you want to understand it better, look up photos of "headspace gauges" and note there is no "bullet" portion. A "chambering" reamer normally cuts the chamber and the throat at the same time. If your barrel is already headspaced correctly and you want to load longer, you have to use a "Throating" reamer which does not cut the chamber any deeper.

Edited May 1, 2014 by reptoid

[reptoid]

Sorry, but if you load the cartridge so that the bullet engages the rifling - or within 3 or 4 thousandths - and the base of the cartridge is flush with the hood - or 3 or 4 thousandths lower - I guarantee it will fire. It won't make any difference how long the case is.

Remember, straight wall pistol brass shortens with each firing, so I'll bet that if you take 10 used cases (unloaded) and "plunk" them into your chamber the bases of the cartridges will will be 7 or 8 different distances from being flush with the barrel hood.

Steve;

Take another look at his photos; my eyeball says that is at least .050" to .080" from flush. You will never see brass shorten that much from firing

[Steve RA]

I never said that it shortened that much from firing. I've done everything that I've suggested in the posts above at one time or another in my loading career which began in 1961.

As an interesting exercise - if the original poster wants to do it - is load an empty cartridge (no powder or primer) as I've described above, Then see what happens when you load it.

[singlestackman]

Craig,

I did the exact same thing!!!!!

I used a lead round to gauge off of.....Wrong!!!!

That barrel is a paper weight, like Aircooled6racer suggested.

Buy a new barrel and a go gauge, and consider it a educational expense.

[bpowe]

I have 9x21 brass that I've shot and reloaded goodness only knows how many times. Some of it is down to about 9mm length and is still going strong. That's at least 2mm short of the forcing cone. I have never owned a Glock so I don't know from "controlled feeding", but my STI certainly works.

[Jamiethesquid]

 

So there are still people around who believe the cartridge actually headspaces on the case mouth. Amusing!

 

The .40 S&W cartridge debuted January 17, 1990, along with the new Smith & Wesson Model 4006 pistol, although it was several months before the pistols were available for purchase. Austrian manufacturer Glock Ges.m.b.H. beat Smith & Wesson to the dealer shelves in 1990, with pistols chambered in .40 S&W (the Glock 22 and 23) which were announced a week before the 4006.[5] Glock's rapid introduction was aided by its engineering of a pistol chambered in 10mm Auto, the Glock 20, only a short time earlier. Since the .40 S&W uses the same bore diameter and case head as the 10mm Auto, it was merely a matter of adapting the 10mm design to the shorter 9×19mm Parabellum frames. The new guns and ammunition were an immediate success.[6][7]

The .40 S&W case length and overall cartridge length are shortened, but other dimensions except case web and wall thickness remain identical to the 10mm Auto. Both cartridges headspace on the mouth of the case. Thus in a semi-auto they are not interchangeable. Fired from a 10mm semi-auto, the .40 Smith & Wesson cartridge will headspace on the extractor and the bullet will jump a 3.6 millimetres (0.142 in) freebore just like a .38 Special fired from a .357 Magnum pistol. If the cartridge is not held by the extractor, the chances for a ruptured primer are great.[8] Smith and Wesson does make a double action revolver that can fire either at will using moon clips. A single-action revolver in the .3840 chambering can also be modified to fire the .40 or the 10 mm if it has an extra cylinder. Some .40 caliber handguns can be converted to 9mm with a special purpose made barrel, magazine change, and other parts.[9][10]

Then what does it head space off of??

Edited May 7, 2014 by IDPA-nut

[bikerburgess]

However, if he hasn't gone too far, the barrel could still be reamed out to a 10mm and used in a large frame. That would be a better option than just throwing it in the trash.

the barrels are not interchangeable between the large (10mm 45ACP)and small frame guns (9, 40, 357sig)

[Steve RA]

I'd still like to see the OP load an empty case with the bullet he normally uses - use the normal "plunk" test until the base of the cartridge is flush with the barrel hood and then see exactly what he has.

[Craig N]

I'm not sure what the "DO NOT TRY THIS" is based on. Many rifle experts suggest loading rifle cartridge so the bullet is 3 or 4 thousandths from the rifling as one of the things to do in a search for best accuracy. So loading the pistol cartridge in the same manner should have no danger involved as the pressures in most pistol cartridges are considerably lower than most rifle cartridges.

You could load the bullet so the case head is 3 or 4 thousandths below the hood of the barrel for the exact same effect.

Admittedly, the cartridge might not work in the magazines but I cannot see that there would be a risk involved in loading one up and trying it.

Rifle cartridges that you are referring to headspace off of the sholder, not the casemouth thus holding the case from going forward when the firing pin strikes the primer. In his case, if he loads it long like you suggested , the firing pin strike, or even the slide slamming home at full speed will stick the bullet in the lands in addition to probably getting a light strike due to excessive headspace. Then when you try to clear/eject the lightstrike, you run the risk of pulling the bullet and dumping a case full of powder into your mag.

For the OP: Not trying to add insult to injury but, if you are asking which kind of reamer you need and don't really understand "headspace" (hint: it has nothing to do with the bullet) you need to do more research before you cut metal i.e. measure two or three times, cut once. If you want to understand it better, look up photos of "headspace gauges" and note there is no "bullet" portion. A "chambering" reamer normally cuts the chamber and the throat at the same time. If your barrel is already headspaced correctly and you want to load longer, you have to use a "Throating" reamer which does not cut the chamber any deeper.

It said it had a built on throat-er.

I learned to fix Computers this say way........fixing what I screwed up. I learned my lesson and just use the factory barrel.

[Craig N]

I don't have a pic of it but a round loaded to 1.1300 "looked" like it was right when I dropped it in the barrel.

[Steve RA]

1.13 OAL is what I load my 9mm.